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Thread: R1150RT Rear Wheel Bolts

  1. #1

    R1150RT Rear Wheel Bolts

    I pulled my rear wheel today for a tire replacement and found the bolts nearly frozen. Two really screeched when they released. There was rust and rusty water all over everything. I recently went through a lot of rain returning from Vermont.

    Is it safe to use a touch of anti-seize on rear wheel bolts. I'd like things to be a little cleaner and easier next time.
    Frank G.
    Hattiesburg, Mississippi
    2004 R1150RT

  2. #2
    BMWRich58
    Guest
    There was rust and rusty water all over everything.

    Very common problem with that style wheel.

    After the bolts are removed,wire brush them clean.
    I have a black round plastic "BMW" logo plug that pop's right in to the center hole on the rear wheel. It fits snuggly and in over 20K miles,still keeps the water out which = no rusted bolts!!!
    I purchased it from a guy in Austrailia for about $15.00? including shipping. It looks and fits great!!! Picture on his web site.

    Here's his link:http://www.users.bigpond.com/hayneskld/

  3. #3
    RIDERR1150GSADV
    Guest

    Unhappy

    I had the same prblem but was told that you can't grease those bolts. The torque specs are for these things to be tightened without grease. I believe it is even in the manual.
    The only thing you can do it take the wheel off (pita) and clean the whole area once in a while. Make sure to torque those bolts right as you could crack the rim if you don't. Goes for cage wheels too by the way. That centercap thingie looks like the answer, I wish I had one when I had my RT. K bikes have a center stud and it fills up that hole.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the tip on the wheel cap. Has anyone found a U.S. source for these? It looks like just what I need.
    Frank G.
    Hattiesburg, Mississippi
    2004 R1150RT

  5. #5
    ABC,AMA(LIFE),MOA,RA,IBMW MANICMECHANIC's Avatar
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    The Wunderlich catalog has a couple.
    F.O.G.Rider, Rounder #6,
    Ambassador
    BMWRA Wisconsin Region Rep
    MOA Biergarten co-chair

  6. #6
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    R1150RT rear wheel

    I just installed my wheelcaps this past week. Too soon to
    see how well they keep the water out, but as tight as they fit I don't see how any water can get past them.

    I ordered mine from Keith in Australia and had it in about
    a week. He is very easy to deal with and the wheelcaps are class.

    You will find him posting on this forum quite often and there is a site on his posts, that when clicked on will
    give you his web site.

    Gerald

  7. #7
    BMWRich58
    Guest
    I just installed my wheelcaps this past week. Too soon to
    see how well they keep the water out, but as tight as they fit I don't see how any water can get past them.

    I ordered mine from Keith in Australia and had it in about
    a week. He is very easy to deal with and the wheelcaps are class.


    Glad everything worked out for ya!!!

  8. #8
    Registered User
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    The bolts in question should NOT be greased or antiseized. They do take a high torque value to be 'tight'. But when you think about it you wouldn't want them loose.

  9. #9
    Rally Rat RTRandy's Avatar
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    I just took my RT to the local dealer to get new tires put on and while there my mechanic called me over to ask me if I've ever used a high pressure wash on my wheels.

    I told him I'm a lot of things, but I can't lie so I had to come clean. Riding from Texas to Spokane amounted to intense bugs and dirt so on occassion I pulled into the 75? pressure wash to get the bad stuff off. He showed me that hole on the left side of the rear wheel and explained how the high pressure water gets in there and rusts out the metal seals and the bolts. I only used the wash on the lower half of the bike and the front faring, but now realize it's just not a good idea.

    One of the last things my salesman said to me the day I pulled out of the dealer on my brand new RT was not to use a pressure wash, but I thought I could be careful. I'm back to S100 in my driveway and the garden hose.

    I'm surprised BMW can't come up with a better solution to protect those areas.

  10. #10
    Thanks for the info on the wheelcaps. I ordered from Keith yesterday.

  11. #11
    Retired from riding rad's Avatar
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    There is really no way a center cap will stop the lug bolt corrosion. When I change my tires (I do my own tire change'n) I take the time to take each lug bolt and completely clean it, especially the threads, with a good soft wire brush. If you do this each time, and ya end up do'n 2 or 3 tire changes a year, you will find you have almost no corrosion.

  12. #12
    BMWRich58
    Guest
    There is really no way a center cap will stop the lug bolt corrosion

    I agree,but the Haynes Wheel Cap sure does help BIG TIME !!

  13. #13
    Registered User
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    R1150RT rear wheel bolts

    I've been thinking about this ever since it was posted and wonder if a stainless steel bolt would rust in the hub? I
    know a good grade of stainless steel does not rust, but
    was not sure what reaction would occur between it and plain steel.

    If this would work I for one would buy a set. Maybe some
    vendor will look into this. Should be a potential for a lot
    of sales on this item.

    Gerald

  14. #14
    Riding for the SON
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    Wheel lug bolts

    Quote Originally Posted by rlf
    The bolts in question should NOT be greased or antiseized. They do take a high torque value to be 'tight'. But when you think about it you wouldn't want them loose.
    I can't help it, I have to lub my lug bolts. I clean, inspect and apply anti-seize to the threads and the head of the bolt, and then reduce the torque value 10%. You get a much better clamping force, and slight stretch of the bolts so that they will not loosen. When the bolts are dry, you get a very inconsent clamping force, and chance they will come loose. All the torqueing engery is in the rotation of the bolt, and not tightening.

  15. #15
    Addicted to curves azgman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy Barnes
    I can't help it, I have to lub my lug bolts. I clean, inspect and apply anti-seize to the threads and the head of the bolt, and then reduce the torque value 10%. You get a much better clamping force, and slight stretch of the bolts so that they will not loosen. When the bolts are dry, you get a very inconsent clamping force, and chance they will come loose. All the torqueing engery is in the rotation of the bolt, and not tightening.

    Huh!?

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