Tire iron removal of rear tire on R1200RT

I decided when I got my R12RT I wanted to do all the maintenance and repairs on it except warranty stuff and recalls.

I got a large nail in my rear tire the other day. I successfully plugged the tire using a rope/rubber glue repair and got home fine. I'm in the process of replacing the rear tire myself, but I'm stuck and am looking to see if anyone has a trick that might help me get unstuck.

The tire/wheel is off the bike and on a pad on the floor. I'm using the three tire iron/two rim protector approach to remove the tire. I broke the bead no problem. I used 3 "one by" blocks inside the bottom side of the rim to hold the tire in the center, lubed up the tire and the first bead popped off easily. I was surprised how easy the first bead came off.

I'm stuck getting the second bead off. I can get two irons under the bead and I lift up the bead, but I can't seem to get the leverage to pop the second bead off.

I've checked out the youtube videos on changing tires and did a Google search. On all those videos, the second bead seems to almost leap off the wheel. That's not happening for me.

Any tricks out there for getting that second bead off?

(QUICK NOTE: If you're going to post how your cousin Bob will dismount/mount them on his automated tire machine for $25, thanks. That cool. I can get it done locally for that too, but that doesn't help me learn to do it myself. )

some dishwashing soap works wonders, have you tried that on the rim and tire?

Also another thing that may help is a longer lever arm to give you that addtional oomph to pop the bottom.

You didn't say it, but just incase watch out for the the TPM sensor when you put the pry bars.

The best way to get the 2nd bead off, is to come from the BACK side, meaning place the iron over top of the rim, under the bead, and hooked over the edge of the rim you are prying it over. Make sure you use a rim protector.

I stand the partially removed tire and rim upright, place a single iron as described, and just pry it over. I then take my knee and push down on the tire and it will pop right off.

Here is a little vid of my technique.

http://www.easy-clan.com/ski/richard/final tire removal.wmv

Here is how I do it. It works the best for me, having tried lots of different techniques:

Apply tire lube to wheel and bead.

Lay tire/wheel down.

Position yourself at the 6:00 position - pull the bead up into the drop center of the wheel at the 12:00 position. Use one iron at about the 6:30 position to bring bead up over the wheel. Insert the second iron at 5:30 and repeat.

Alternate to 7:00 and then 5:00.

At some point here I hold with a third iron at that 7:00 position and then alternate with two irons and small bites on counterclockwise from that 5:00 position until it about half off.

Then it will just pull off.

Years ago I bought one of these bead breakers from Harbor Freight. It doesn't take much room, it works fine, and is only about $40. I do use blocks of wood to support the wheel so it doesn't contact the metal base. I just break one side, turn it over and do the other, put it away, then remove the tire. BTW I just saw that HF now sells a BMW motorcycle wheel adapter for balancing.

pffog said:

The best way to get the 2nd bead off, is to come from the BACK side, meaning place the iron over top of the rim, under the bead, and hooked over the edge of the rim you are prying it over. Make sure you use a rim protector.

I stand the partially removed tire and rim upright, place a single iron as described, and just pry it over. I then take my knee and push down on the tire and it will pop right off.

Here is a little vid of my technique.

http://www.easy-clan.com/ski/richard/final tire removal.wmv

Click to expand...

I watched your video, then went down and tried it. It took about 30 seconds to get the second bead off. Totally awesome.

Many thanks.

(Now I just need to work on getting the new tire on.)

PGlaves said:

Here is how I do it. It works the best for me, having tried lots of different techniques:

Apply tire lube to wheel and bead.

Lay tire/wheel down.

Position yourself at the 6:00 position - pull the bead up into the drop center of the wheel at the 12:00 position. Use one iron at about the 6:30 position to bring bead up over the wheel. Insert the second iron at 5:30 and repeat.

Alternate to 7:00 and then 5:00.

At some point here I hold with a third iron at that 7:00 position and then alternate with two irons and small bites on counterclockwise from that 5:00 position until it about half off.

Then it will just pull off.

Click to expand...

Thanks Paul. This approach worked for me on the first bead no sweat, but I couldn't get it to work with the second bead. The tire was just too tight. I must be too big a wus to work the irons correctly.

Got it

I got it.

Thanks all for the assist. These forums are awesome.

alzyck said:

...........

(Now I just need to work on getting the new tire on.)

Click to expand...

If you lube it good, 95% of the time you can just push the first bead over the rim. with the rim laying flat in front of you, just kneel down hold the tire in front of you and angle it a little, put the bead over the rim at the 6 o'clock position, with hands at 2 and 10 o'clock just push down and wiggle it a little and it is 1/2 way done. Knees help on tougher tires.

pffog said:

The best way to get the 2nd bead off, is to come from the BACK side, meaning place the iron over top of the rim, under the bead, and hooked over the edge of the rim you are prying it over. Make sure you use a rim protector.

I stand the partially removed tire and rim upright, place a single iron as described, and just pry it over. I then take my knee and push down on the tire and it will pop right off.

Here is a little vid of my technique.

http://www.easy-clan.com/ski/richard/final tire removal.wmv

Click to expand...

Hi, I have never changed a tire before. It would be great if you could post, when available, a video of the entire technique - right from the start of breaking the first bead. Your video above sure demonstrated a simple technique for the second bead.

Thanks

ridewv said:

Years ago I bought one of these bead breakers from Harbor Freight. It doesn't take much room, it works fine, and is only about $40. I do use blocks of wood to support the wheel so it doesn't contact the metal base. I just break one side, turn it over and do the other, put it away, then remove the tire. BTW I just saw that HF now sells a BMW motorcycle wheel adapter for balancing.

Click to expand...

I have the exact same breaker only from JC Whitney--which has served me well for over 15 years. NAPA sells tire lube in a gallon size which they say is better than soap and should last a lifetime. I can't guess how many $$ I have saved by mounting and balancing my own tires. NAPA also has the short stem tire valves, P/N 90-412 in a box of 10 ea for really cheap compared to anything that says "motorcycle" on it (same thing). Cheers!

dnelliott said:

Hi, I have never changed a tire before. It would be great if you could post, when available, a video of the entire technique - right from the start of breaking the first bead. Your video above sure demonstrated a simple technique for the second bead.

Thanks

Click to expand...

I have a crude one that I was going to "polish" up, but just never got around to it. Maybe this winter I can do something.

dnelliott said:

Hi, I have never changed a tire before. It would be great if you could post, when available, a video of the entire technique - right from the start of breaking the first bead. Your video above sure demonstrated a simple technique for the second bead.

Thanks

Click to expand...

There are some videos out there on the net. A Google search or a search of You Tube for something akin to "motorcycle tire repair" should get you something.

Awesome video pffog! Looked real slick. After paying for multiple tire changes this year, I am leaning to trying this myself as well. Thanks to all for the information.

ridewv said:

Years ago I bought one of these bead breakers from Harbor Freight. It doesn't take much room, it works fine, and is only about $40. I do use blocks of wood to support the wheel so it doesn't contact the metal base. I just break one side, turn it over and do the other, put it away, then remove the tire. BTW I just saw that HF now sells a BMW motorcycle wheel adapter for balancing.

Click to expand...

I bought the HF wheel balancing stand and BMW adapter, it fits the wheel perfectly.

BUT (There is always one of those)

the machining on mine is not real good, the accuracy is only about an ounce, confirmed by rotating the wheel on the mount, there is some runout. I will have to finish my workshop move, and improve it. Good thing is one ounce is enough, no vibrations.

Rod

I used tire irons exclusively for 30 years, when the RT needed tires I decided it was time for one of these http://www.nomartirechanger.com/

With the wheels off I can swap both tires and be ready to put the rims back on in less than 10 minutes, I should have done this years ago. Not for everyone, but if you can justify the cost and have a place to put it, you won't regret spending the money.

Tire change.

RTRyder said:

I used tire irons exclusively for 30 years, when the RT needed tires I decided it was time for one of these http://www.nomartirechanger.com/

With the wheels off I can swap both tires and be ready to put the rims back on in less than 10 minutes, I should have done this years ago. Not for everyone, but if you can justify the cost and have a place to put it, you won't regret spending the money.

Click to expand...

+1, I have Jr Pro Model - it works perfect.