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Another RS Project

Good looking oil pan! Bike was never put away for a spell with dirty oil. Oil pickup bolts tight?
 
I did not go in there.

Now is the time. I've read that loc-tite is good on the pickup bolts. Careful torquing the pan bolts (I'm guessing you know this by now, on an aluminum block). I actually replaced all of mine. I think (not 100% sure) that they can stretch.

I'm envious of your project. The bike seems to be in good shape.
 
Now is the time. I've read that loc-tite is good on the pickup bolts. Careful torquing the pan bolts (I'm guessing you know this by now, on an aluminum block). I actually replaced all of mine. I think (not 100% sure) that they can stretch.

I'm envious of your project. The bike seems to be in good shape.

When I removed the oil pan screws they where only tighten to about 3 or 4 lbs that might explain the oil around the pan.
 
Back to engine cleaning for a moment...I loved your idea of plastic cups to cover the big holes in the block!!! My favorite technique for cleaning of this type is to use regular Gunk, which is basically pressurized diesel in a can, for the first go round...let it soak, then carb choke cleaner REALLY goes to town on it... Yeah, I have used brake cleaner, too, and it works real well, but for this stuff, the carb cleaner also is good...
 
Thanks, I'll have to give it a listen up front, maybe borrow her stethoscope...I'll wipe it off later.:nono

I usually use a 3ft wooden broom handle or stick, works great for listening engine noises, one end in the engine the other end hold it with your hand and put your ear on the knuckle on the index finger.
 
Back to engine cleaning for a moment...I loved your idea of plastic cups to cover the big holes in the block!!! My favorite technique for cleaning of this type is to use regular Gunk, which is basically pressurized diesel in a can, for the first go round...let it soak, then carb choke cleaner REALLY goes to town on it... Yeah, I have used brake cleaner, too, and it works real well, but for this stuff, the carb cleaner also is good...

I used a bunch of WD40 and a brass brush. It takes a while, but it looks really, really nice afterwards. Don't use a steel brush. It'll leave particles on the case that will rust.
 
Repaint

Today I was looking into getting some bids on repainting the RS parts, I was blown away by the first quote 1800~2000 wow! Tank, fairing, front fender, seat and side panels. I guess I will have to learn another trade:D

Color input will be taken into consideration.

My choice:

Black

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/schemepages/schemer100rs.htm

R100RSR%20(2).JPG
 
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I used a bunch of WD40 and a brass brush. It takes a while, but it looks really, really nice afterwards. Don't use a steel brush. It'll leave particles on the case that will rust.


I will try that.
 
I used a bunch of WD40 and a brass brush. It takes a while, but it looks really, really nice afterwards. Don't use a steel brush. It'll leave particles on the case that will rust.

Well, then, that's probably the only good thing I know about WD40 then, other than gettin' the water outta yer distributor! I sure don't recommend it as a lubricant, but thanks for that tip...I've heard that works...
 
It takes a LOTTA work to prep the surfaces, even if you take just the parts to be painted into the shop...and just cuz they're small doesn' t mean it's any easier or takes any less time...You got quoted probably the goin' rate, but DON'T forget that good work doesn't come cheap...and cheap work is never good! Paint is not where you want to cheap it out, because even if a cheap paint job initially looks good, down the road is where yer gonna find out whether the substrates are doin' their jobs...

Paint, and paint prepping, is tough work...the irony is that nobody seems to squack when they get charged $85-90 an hour for the parts changers to do what they do at the local dealership, but for a body man to charge $40 an hour? Oh, you'd think they were serial killers!!! And it takes decades for a body man to hit his stride, and a parts changer (AKA 'technician') can go to school, get a certification, and can earn the company a buncha money!!!

Anyway, need to get off that soap box...sounds like you might wanna find a pal willing to paint for less...don't forget that a good $400-500 of that quote is gonna be just materials...that is, IF they use good materials!!!
 
+1 on not using steel brush but you can use stainless steel brush. Or at least I do...
 
Today I was looking into getting some bids on repainting the RS parts, I was blown away by the first quote 1800~2000 wow!

That is why I like the color "patina" so much. I can't see paying well over $1000 so that I can worry about every little scratch. I like to ride gravel roads with no anxiety. Sand & gravel trucks, just frikken annoying.
 
That is why I like the color "patina" so much. I can't see paying well over $1000 so that I can worry about every little scratch. I like to ride gravel roads with no anxiety. Sand & gravel trucks, just frikken annoying.

And, yeah, this is a good point, too... As long as you get good materials, so for a thousand bux, figure on $450 of that goin' towards materials, so what you will be gettin' is $650 worth of labor...
 
that is, IF they use good materials!!![/QUOTE]
That is the question...
 
Yep...my point perzactly!!! They ain't cheap anymore...especially here in California, but it's true across the board...you truly get what you pay for!
 
Yep...my point perzactly!!! They ain't cheap anymore...especially here in California, but it's true across the board...you truly get what you pay for!

I guess I will have to find a friend of a friend who can do the job, is hard to find the right guy for a paint job, I did made a mistake a few months ago when my son put a dent on the car and I took the car to the cheapest guy in town and now I can see why but I did save a grand on the job.

Maybe I should prep and just get a quote for the paint job.
 
Well, I got mine down to the frame yesterday, but I'm not gonna open Pandora's box and remove the swing arm and rear drive...I'll paint the frame as it, since I'm not building a show piece, only a nice lookin' road bike!!!
 
Well, I got mine down to the frame yesterday, but I'm not gonna open Pandora's box and remove the swing arm and rear drive...I'll paint the frame as it, since I'm not building a show piece, only a nice lookin' road bike!!!

Check the shaft for notching. Mine was notched pretty badly and it took me a while to source a shaft.
 
Are you getting my email

Habdala:

Are you getting the photos I sent you to your email address? If you still have my email address and your server is blocking mine, email on my site. If not respond on the MOA site. Dale Monson, Big Rapids, MI
 
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