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Another RS Project

Not trying to hijack this thread but, someone mentioned having to replace the timing chain and sprockets. Are there telltale signs this should be done short of taking the front of the engine off for inspection?
My '82 RS has 162,000 on the clock and runs great.

I think the best thing to do would be to have an airhead mechanic that works on 'em with frequency have a listen. As the chains wear they do get noiser, but with time, your"ear" has adjusted to the sound. It is my understanding it is the sprockets etc. that wear more than the chain.
 
It is my understanding it is the sprockets etc. that wear more than the chain.

And it's my understanding that one of the sprockets is more likely to wear...the smaller diameter one I would think...rationale escapes me at the moment.

But if I'm in there, I'm likely to replace both just because...
 
I added a bunch of stuff when I had my powdercoating done: battery cage, centerstand, brackets to hold the instruments, the little rods that hold the S fairing in place, etc. I sorted through all my parts and found all the little black bits and sent them along.

If I'd been thinking, I'd have sent along a bunch of parts from my Honda. :bluduh

I went with a semigloss, which was pretty close to the factory finish.
 
All this talk about powder coating...
I just sold a set of fork sliders to a fellow that had his powder coated. His were warped from the powder coat process and unusable. Careful ... be careful what you throw in the powder coat batch there.
 
All this talk about powder coating...
I just sold a set of fork sliders to a fellow that had his powder coated. His were warped from the powder coat process and unusable. Careful ... be careful what you throw in the powder coat batch there.

Yes! 400 degrees is bound to do some damage on metal.
 
Carbs

I'm working on the carbs and replaced floats, all seals and diaphragms. I removed the butterfly and my question is how much light to you need to see after I put back together?

To much?

IMG_3787.JPG


Not enough?

IMG_3789.JPG


Before
IMG_3551.JPG


After

IMG_3555.JPG



I used a can of Berryman carb cleaner parts, it does a good job.
 
I added a bunch of stuff when I had my powdercoating done: battery cage, centerstand, brackets to hold the instruments, the little rods that hold the S fairing in place, etc. I sorted through all my parts and found all the little black bits and sent them along.

If I'd been thinking, I'd have sent along a bunch of parts from my Honda. :bluduh

I went with a semigloss, which was pretty close to the factory finish.

Do you have any pictures of your frame after it was done?
 
The carb valve should close COMPLETELY! The less light the better. Check and see if the valve is in backwards, the edges are cut at an angle to aid in this and can easily be put on backwards. Carbs starting to look clean though.
 
Not trying to hijack this thread but, someone mentioned having to replace the timing chain and sprockets. Are there telltale signs this should be done short of taking the front of the engine off for inspection?
My '82 RS has 162,000 on the clock and runs great.


Mine had a lot of front end noise, after I replaced the chain and sprockets the noise is gone.:clap
 
The carb valve should close COMPLETELY! The less light the better. Check and see if the valve is in backwards, the edges are cut at an angle to aid in this and can easily be put on backwards. Carbs starting to look clean though.

There is a dot on the flap that points upward and out. Is that correct?
 
Sorry don't know about a dot but do know they have to close almost totally. I have sometimes left the screws loose and tried closing the valve and moving it until it is right, then tightening the screws.
 
Sorry don't know about a dot but do know they have to close almost totally. I have sometimes left the screws loose and tried closing the valve and moving it until it is right, then tightening the screws.

I will check that again.
 
I'm guessing with that much light showing past the butterfly the engine will rev a good 2500 to 3000 rpm at idle. Anybody else have a guess?
 
with the idle adjuster backed away(no contact) the butterfly should close completely. loosen the screws and adjust it so(it has room for movement) DO NOT forget to peen the bf's screws after.. the dot on the choke(fuel enrichment ) shaft should be pointed towards the side with the large bump when the levers are reinstalled....
 
Engine

I did not clean the engine before starting this project and I recommend doing it cus you will have to to a thorough job before installing seals and gaskets. I used a large cup from your fave taco place to cover your connecting rod it does work pretty well as it fits perfect and seals the hole before cleaning, I also used a couple of oil caps to cover the push rod holes. To clean the engine I used CRC Brakekleen spray can works well with the provided tube and can control the spray.

Before

IMG_3733.JPG


After

IMG_3791.JPG


Oil pan, looks clean and no metal shavings at all.

IMG_3797.JPG
IMG_3795.JPG


I also dissected the oil filter.

IMG_3796.JPG
 
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