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Grasp the brake cable and then push the clip off as shown, repeat for the other clip.
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 08-31-2009 at 12:24 PM .
Honey Badger
Remove Caliper using a T-45 Torx
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Once the caliper is removed you need to get it out of the way so you can access the drain bolt and put a catch can underneath.
I wrapped the caliper so it would not get scratched or scratch the frame.
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DECISION POINT
If you are planning to lubricate the driveshaft splines as part of the rear fluid change go to this link now Spline Lube Link
If you are just going to change the final drive fluid - continue below
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 03-13-2010 at 09:54 PM .
Reason: Added Link for Spline Lube
Honey Badger
Shown below is the location of the drain plug on the rear drive
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Using a T-45 remove the drain plug and have a suitable device to catch the waste fluid.
A very useful link you can use to locate recycling centers in your area is this one - special thanks to Ted for finding and providing
Earth 911
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As you wait for the rear drive fluid to drain out, take the opportunity to clean out the drain plug.
The drain plug has a magnetic insert which gathers all the metalic materials in the fluid.
Shown below is the inside of the drain bolt after cleaning out - took about 5 minutes with some brake-clean and quetips.
SHOP TIP - Before inserting the drain plug - you may want to check the o-ring to ensure it is not damaged or shows wear.
If you have done the fluid drain 3x with the same o-ring gasket - you may want to replace it.
After the draining is complete - reinsert the drain plug and torque to 20Nm
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 09-01-2009 at 06:57 AM .
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Refilling
The refilling process occurs thru the access port at the 1 o'clock position on the back of the rear drive housing as shown below.
Use a 6mm hex to remove the fill plug.
At this point - ensure you are in neutral, so you can move the disc to allow access to the fill plug.
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 06-24-2010 at 07:56 PM .
Honey Badger
Now the process of filling begins
There are several methods, the one I have been using of late with success, is the syringe method.
I measure success in ease of use, and minimal mess. The syringe method appears better than the squirt bottle used in the past.
Regarding the fluid to use BMW specifies Castrol SAF-XO, I couldn't find that so am using BMW Synthetic 75W140.
Use what you feel comfortable with.
Fill Quantity - there has been a recent change to the specified amount of fluid to refill and it is now 180 cc's
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 09-01-2009 at 12:31 AM .
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As the syringe I use is 60cc's and the fill requirment is 180cc, I therefore refill the syringe 3 times.
To facilitate the fill process I put in 200cc's of fluid in the meter cup.
The reason for the additional amount is to ensure I have the total correct amount and I put it in the meter cup for ease of handling.
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 09-01-2009 at 06:32 AM .
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Fill the syringe to the 60cc
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With steady, even pressure inject the fluid into the fluid fill hole
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 09-04-2009 at 03:38 PM .
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Note of interest:
Using the syringe I have, I do not need to worry about overfilling because the content within the syringe tube does not go in once you have reached the maximum stroke of the syringe.
As stated this is a 60cc syringe so I repeat the injection process 3 times.
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 09-01-2009 at 12:32 AM .
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Re-Assembly
OK - so at this point 180cc's of delicious lubricity should be inside the final drive and we are ready to put everything back together.
The overall process works out like this.
Install Fill Plug and torque to 20 nM
Routing speed sensor wire (rear brake line)
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 09-04-2009 at 03:47 PM .
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Installing the caliper
Ensure the pads are properly inserted and slip the caliper onto the disc with the pads between the disc.
If the caliper will not fit you may need to push back the pads a little to allow for more space.
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Last edited by Semper_Fi; 08-31-2009 at 05:25 PM .
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