Topeka, KS to Inuvik, NWT, Alaska & Prudhoe Bay

June 29

I did not sleep real well last night as there was noise and the room was warm. I got up about 12:30AM and updated my AdvRider and Blog. While I was up I opened the window and turned on the fan to get some cool air in the room. Hope I didnÔÇÖt cause any wrecks with people gawking at me. Probably scared them to death.

I was up about 7AM and started loading up in the rain again. I rode in the rain for about an hour and then saw a ray of light.


I was a pretty uneventful ride. I hoped to stop at Muckluck AnnieÔÇÖs but it not open any longer. Six years ago I stopped for some wonderful blueberry pancakes. There are many places that have closed throughout Canada and Alaska. I went on down the road to the Nisuitin Bay on the Telsin River crossing and ate breakfast there.

Telsin Lake which goes on for miles.

People do not have enough to do so they write on the side of the road. This went on for many miles.


I rode on into Watson Lake to see if Mandeep still had my tires and mesh jacket and pants. He happened to be there and said we could put the tires on now if I wished. I wished! What a guy.


I put it up on the center stand a took the front tire off. My old front tire was getting about worn out. I told him he could keep the TKC 80 tires and maybe someone could use them as they were probably good for another 1,000 miles.

I put 4,370 miles on them and this is what they looked like. They served me well. Anyway he looked in his stash and found one like my front tire that had more tread so I put it on and left my old one for someone else. I put the Dyna beads in and put the front back on enough to remove the rear and we put my old tire back on which only has about 3,000 miles. I put the beads in it a put it back on the bike and Mandeep took off doing something else. I got everything tightened back up and worked on Lola a bit. When it rains I have trouble with the electrical connection at times and with the plastic ties I could not spray the connection with my visor cleaner. So I had some small bungee cords and will use that to hold her on. That works better anyway as I can take it off at night and not worry about someone stealing her.

I had a hard time tracing down Mandeep to pay him. He didnÔÇÖt want anything but I managed to give him ten dollars. So if you are ever in Watson Lake stop at Campground Services for excellent service and friendly people. If you need tires changed Mandeep is your man and might even have a tire that will get you to Whitehorse for a new one.

As I was about to leave Chuck Weaver from Riviera, TX pulled up on his BMW. I had seen him down the road after I ate breakfast and he was waiting in line for gas. I waved at him and then because of the long line decided I had enough gas. We had met somewhere else earlier in this trip and talked but neither of us remember where. He had already gotten a room in Watson Lake at the Air Force Museum and I decided to head for the Cassiar. I hope we meet up again as he is coming this way also. He has been to South America.

I started down the Cassiar Highway not really knowing where I would spend the night. ThatÔÇÖs the way I travel without much planning. What a beautiful ride. I hadnÔÇÖt gone far before I saw a black bear. I stopped for gas at Good Hope Lake. I seen a couple of signs for the Dease River Crossing Campground and thought I might give it a try. It rained off and on the entire trip and I was in no mood again for the tent. Eureka! The had camping cabins for $55 and $4 for shower so that is where I am. Just what I was looking for.


They have a table and a bunk and I have the sleeping bag.

No credit cards only cash or check. No phones but they did have WiFI until 8PM then they shut the generator off. It wasnÔÇÖt a good connection but I did manage a Skype call home. I could hear Mary alright but she was having trouble hearing me but at least I made the point that I was okay. I also sent a Spot message that I was okay. I keep it on tracking so they know where I am anyway.
My gourmet meal.


It is 47 degrees here and I lit the burner of the 2 burner propane stove for heat and to warm my stew.

I have Pita bread I bought when I left Watson Lake the first time and it is still good. ItÔÇÖs a great thing to carry with you. I always carry something to warm up to eat for occasions like this. They did have a Coke so I had my Jack Daniels before dinner. Life is Good!

June 30

June 30th started out cold and remained so the entire day. It was 43 degrees outside and 48 inside this morning.

There was even some fresh snow on the ground.

No sooner than I left it started to rain and did so for several hours. There were probably 30 to 40 miles of gravel or construction. The bike and I really got muddy again. I stopped at Dease Lake for breakfast. I sat with a couple from Vancouver BC. When I said I had been to 11 Canadian Provinces she informed me there were not that many. So I have been to 9 Canadian Provinces and two Territories. I didnÔÇÖt take too many pictures because of the rain. I came across one accident although it wasnÔÇÖt bad. An RV went off the road. It was probably bad for them though.


I rode into Stewart, BC and back into Alaska at Hyder.


I checked into the SeaLaska Inn. I then went for a ride to the bear watch area in hopes of seeing my first bear in Alaska. Eureka! I found a black bear crossing the road and then on the way back another. Now I donÔÇÖt know if these are really Alaska black bears or some that wandered in from Canada but at least they were in Alaska.


Some scenery on the way to the bear watch area.



A couple of shots of Bear Glacier.



I had a couple of beers and a pizza for $29 with tip. I am now up to 8,100 miles.

July 1

My stay in Hyder was not great. They party too much for me. Being 66 years old I would much rather sleep. The noise went on until 4AM. The couple in the room above me had trouble standing. I think it was the girl and she must have fell down 5 times and it sounded like she was coming through the floor. So if you plan to stay a Sea Laska Inn be aware of the bar and they are going to howl. If you want to sleep stay somewhere else.

I left Hyder at 8AM and no rain.
Bear Glacier

First time in over a week and I went the entire day without rain and the temperature even got up to 68 for a while. I stopped at Kitwanga for fuel and who should I run across again but Chuck Weaver on his 93 GSPD BMW. He had a gasket leaking oil and the guy at the shop was making a new one. I remembered to take his picture this time.




There is lots of logging going on throughout BC except the sawmill at Kitwanga was closed. These are some pictures of some sawmills today.





As I was leaving Prince George for Jasper a sign said no services for over 200 k so I turned around and went to the first station. There I met David Bowers who has been following my posts on AdvRider and is on the way up to Alaska. Here is a link to his posts on AdvRider:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=10492932#post10492932


The roads and weather today were super and it was a great day to ride so I went 485 miles and ended up at McBride BC. I will head to Jasper in the morning then down the Icefield highway towards Calgary.

July 2

July 1 I stayed at the Sandman Inn in McBride, BC. They had super fast Internet but I was too tired to use it much. They had nice rooms and a good cafe. They also had beautiful hanging baskets of flowers around the cafe.


I left about 8AM the next morning headed for Jasper, AB and the Icefield Parkway. This park was still in BC.


It was a very pleasant ride as the weather was perfect today. It was probably in the upper 50's to low 60's as were most days. I paid the $9.80 entrance fee into Jasper National Park with a $10 Canadian bill so received .20 back in change which is a real effort on a motorcycle. They should just charge $10. She asked if I wanted a map and I declined, which I would later regret. One of the attractions I wanted pictures of was the Athabasca Falls and I missed it. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/f/f8/Athabasca_Falls_1.jpg I know I could have taken a much better picture. The last time I went through the Park I was coming from the south and rode right by the falls. I think there was another road I should have taken. I did get some good pictures while in the park but after all that I have been exposed to on this trip it is easier to pass up a shot. Some of the pictures.





If you look close at the above photo you will see people walking. You can see by this photo below how much the glacier has retracted in 100 years. It used to be near where I shot this photo.




I headed out of the park and didn't stop at Lake Louise or Banff as I was there 6 years ago and it is more of a tourist thing. Traffic really moves on Canada 1 even though the speed limit is only 110 kph. I would say some were running 80 mph or 130 kph. I had Lola route me through Calgary and I was glad as I would have missed the road I wanted. Downtown Calgary:

South of Calgary Lola had me heading east on a 2 lane road and I wasn't sure why but since she got me through Calgary I gave her the benefit of doubt and followed her suggestion. So I headed east on 23 highway and as it turned out was a good two lane road. I had a pickup pass me and he was running about 75 mph so I kept up with him for many miles. This country is flat and level and you can see for miles. They raise wheat and Canola which was starting to bloom.




I just about ran out of gas. I had filled up at Canmore and had used what I had in my can while one the Icefield Parkway. I didn't refill it because gas was expensive. Bad decision. I found myself in the middle of nowhere running on empty. I stopped at a small town and they didn't have gas and I asked a guy how far to a station. He said it was about 40 kilometers. I didn't think I could make it as I was showing about 25 miles of gas left. So I rode on at about 60 mph to make better mileage. It was probably a good thing I slowed down anyway since the sheriff officers had two vehicles stopped and issuing tickets. I finally came to a town with fuel and filled up. I still didn't put any in my can. At Lethbridge Lola tried to get me lost and I had to abandon her and make my own decision. I found the correct highway and headed for the border. I crossed into the USA at Sweet Grass, MT.


I headed on to Shelby, MT and arriving at the Crossroads Inn about 9PM. I called Mary to let her know I was okay and made it to a near by Pizza Hut just before they closed. I took the pizza back to the room, ate and went to bed. I had ridden 600 miles, more than I had planned.

July 3

It felt good to be back in the USA and being closer to home. I went outside to start loading up and there was a brisk breeze blowing from the north.

There is just a one hour time difference between home now. I kept flirting with showers all day. The ones in Montana I ignored but once mother nature licked me a little.

I had been seeing all these bears in Canada and Alaska and thought I was seeing Panda bears but they turned out to be Dutch Belted cow. The black belted bull had his eye on the red belted cow but she wasn't having anything to do with him at the moment.

From Great Falls, MT to Billings, MT I was on two lane roads and there is some pretty country. Everything seems so big in Alberta, Montana, and Wyoming. I have taken many pictures but pictures do not do justice to most areas of the country. You just have to be there and see it and especially being on a motorcycle. You can see so much more of the landscape because there are no obstructions. Coming through BC and Alberta I could smell the pines. Through Montana it was the hay they were putting up. Then in Wyoming there were many flowers I could smell while riding and the rain. Colorado had the fresh mountain air and Kansas I could smell the wheat stubble were they were finished cutting wheat. You thought I was going to say the feed lots of Kansas didn't you. They are further south around Garden City & Dodge City.
While driving on one of the four lanes today I met a SUV and as he approached I seen this round ball come off his vehicle. It was the left rear tire and it spit the whole thing out and he was in the passing lane. I couldn't see if he went off the road or hit anything but that was the first time I saw a tire explode like that.
Coming into Billings, MT there was lots of construction and Lola got lost again. I needed fuel and stopped and asked someone where I-90 was. While I was stopped I went inside for a banana. I picked one up and the clerk rang it up at $2.59 so I swiped my credit card thinking that was a lot. After being in Canada nothing surprised me. The clerk realized they price was wrong and canceled the sale. It was .89 so I gave her cash. Yesterday while getting gas at the time I nearly ran out I had some Canadian money to spend. I picked up 2 snickers bars and asked the clerk how much and it was $2.30. I thought she meant for one so I put one back and paid her. As I was walking out she said that was for both of them so I picked up the other one.
Downtown Billings:


As I headed into Wyoming the storms kept following me.


I stopped in Casper, WY for fuel around 5:30 and that was too early to stop so I called ahead to a Super 8 in Cheyenne and made a reservation. I called Mary but there was no answer so I left a message that I was heading for Cheyenne. As soon as I left Casper it started to rain and at times fairly heavy. There was blue sky to my left and right at times but the rain followed I-25 where I was. Finally after about 1 and half hours it cleared up and the sun shone.

Before I got to Cheyenne there was another storm to the northeast and you could see the moon near the clouds.

I made it into Cheyenne about 9PM, called Mary but still no answer so I called her cell phone which she rarely has on. She answered but didn't speak loud and said she would call me back later. I was in the shower when my phone played "Proud Mary" so I didn't answer it. My computer was on and Skype was ringing so I answered it naked. That got her attention. Well as it turned out she had been at the emergency room having two fingers sewed up. When I left the lilac bushes needed trimmed and she said she would do it while I was gone. So while she was attempting to trim them with the electric hedge shears she reached down for something and it grabbed her fingers. She was lucky it didn't cut them off. She had one of the neighbors drive her to the emergency room and then wait about two hours before getting them stitched. At least there was no nerve damage and they will heal although there will be scars because some of the skin and flesh was missing.1

July 4th

I had a bite to eat at Super 8 this morning and grabbed a banana for later. The sky was mostly clear and it was 57 degrees out with a the north wind that was following me home. I stopped for gas shortly after entering Colorado on I-25. Its hard to believe how cheap gas is in the US. I was paying $1.25 per liter X 3.79= $4.74 per gallon and the very cheapest I found was .99 X 3.79= $3.75 per gallon. Much of this gas was regular and if you found premium it was more. Now our money is still worth a little more than theirs but not much. So when I started paying $2.69 for premium it was great.
I left Cheyenne about 7AM as I knew I was going to lose another hour when I hit Kansas. There wasn't much traffic going through Denver so I just zipped right through. I stopped at Limon for some coffee and a bite to eat, then continue on to Colby. I reached Colby at noon and the temperature reached 80 degrees which was the warmest of the trip. It continued to warm a little and around Salina went to 88 degrees. I just opened some vents on my jacket and didn't put on my mesh riding gear. I never used it the entire trip.
The winds were fairly strong out of the north but not as bad as western Kansas can be at times. The wind was good for keeping a breeze on me and also for these.

Since it was July 4th I thought this was appropriate.

And one with the wheat already harvested.

Welcome to the Flint Hills of Kansas.

I made it home about 5:30 and I was tired so I guess that is why I never showed any enthusiasm for this photo.

Mary and I had some Corona's, a steak and some wine. After dinner we went out for some ice cream and came back and watched a few fireworks with the neighbors. By 9:45 I could hardly keep my eyes open and by 10PM I was in bed and asleep within two minutes.
Sunday was spent by going to church and thanking the Lord for my safe journey. In the afternoon I mowed, trimmed, and fertilized the lawn. Thanks to my neighbor Wade for mowing the lawn while I was gone.

I traveled 10,588 miles and took 533 pictures. I had a very safe trip and did not have any close encounters with other vehicles which is very unusual for me. I had a few scary moments brought on by antelope, moose and loose gravel and just plain inattention.
Thanks to all who followed along with me both on ADVrider and my blog. I had about the right amount of gear and it all performed well. I didn't use my mesh riding gear, tripod, and thankfully my first aid kit or tire repair kit and tire pump.
The AeroFlow windshield and fairing worked great as did the Russell Day Long seat. The Happy Trail panniers worked great and nothing got wet or dusty the entire trip. And they are American made in Idaho! The Spot tracker was great for those who wanted to follow me, especially my family. I left it on tracking the entire trip and sent out Okay messages if I couldn't call or Skype. Skype worked well most of the time. If I had a real slow connection, not so good. I had the video and also prepaid $10 for phone service of which I used less than $3. It costs less than .02 cents per minute to call.

Thanks to all the friendly people on the road I met and especially the Canadians. They are great people! If I come up with some dollar figures I may post them. I'm not sure I want to know how much.

So you ask what will I do now. Tomorrow morning another guy and I are headed to Rapid City, SD to pick up a Silverado pickup for Ed Bozarth Chevrolet in Topeka. That will be a 1,400 mile round trip in two days. Thank heavens for my Iron Butt!

Bravo Alvin!

I was just a couple of weeks ahead of you on my trip. Great pictures and report!

Alvin you made my day, I spent my lunch hour just daydreaming about your great adventure. You sure did a good job on the photos. I bow to you sir.
Jeff Anderson

cookie said:

Alvin you made my day, I spent my lunch hour just daydreaming about your great adventure. You sure did a good job on the photos. I bow to you sir.
Jeff Anderson

Click to expand...

Thank you for the kind words. I am glad you enjoyed the pictures.

Great pix and report Alvin.

What a fantastic journey thank you for sharing in such vivid detail ! Excellent ride report.

Nice Pictures

Alvin,

Great ride report and better pictures than normally found. I know it's tough taking pictures and trying to get to where you are going. You always have the "let me just get there approach". Because you did not have hard fast plans on where you were to end up, you had time for pictures, which, in the end, really makes the report come to life.

Great job

Dave
http://web.me.com/david.dorwart/2wheelsround

Great Pictures

Great pictures and narative. I was one of the F650GS riders next to you at the Golden Bear in Tok, not the one in the picture. Heading north to Alaska and the Yukon is a ride that everyone should do. I rode out the last week in August and couldn't believe all the riders I met that were headed north. I hope the weather cooperated for them.

I wish I had read this RR before we met. Then, I could have complimented you in person.

Great story and pics.

Tom

Great RR Alvin. Thanks for taking the time to create this thread. I am planning a trip to Prudhoe from Central Illinois in 2012. I will use many of your suggestions in planning my trip. Thanks again for the wonderful presentation.

Thanks for all the kind remarks. I had not visited this site for quite some time and was surprised to see all the comments and the number of views about my trip.

Now THAT's what I call a Ride Report !!
Very well done !