R60/5 not starting. What the...

Well I just bought a 72 R60. Smoking deal, great bike, not my first or last vintage bike. My shop and parts manuals are in the mail somewhere between here and someplace else. I've been riding it around for the last couple of days getting to know eachother. It is in remarkable tune. Starts VERY easily, idles and runs, or ran like a top. The issue is I just switched the handlebars from the huge buck horns that were on it to the euro bars. Easy enough. I hopped on it and fired it up to ride with the new bars, and all was well. Then I shut it down just outside of my shop to talk to someone who'd never seen one before. The chat was short, so I stuck the key back in the hole and no red light, no electric start and no horn. Battery voltage is all there. The headlight and lights in the bucket come on, as does the pilot light and hi/lo switch works. I dont think I tugged any wires too hard when I slipped the controls off of the old bars. Could it be the dreaded diode board I've heard so much about? I didnt get to play around too much with it as I had to shut the shop down and head home to my family. I could have stayed there all night-- Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
JD

Is this one of those systems where the bar is part of the ground path?

Im not too sure. I usually have some sort of reference material before I buy an old bike. To me it seems like a possibility, but I didnt change anything but the bars. Still chrome, still mounted the same way. Just a different size bar. I slid the controls off of the old bars and on to the new. I know I'll loose sleep over it tonight. Damn!

Just to be sure I understand, there is no red, green or orange light when you push in the key, correct? But if you turn the "key", (aka black knob and ignition key combo) you get headlights?

The horn, starter and ignition all run off a contact made when the key is depressed to the correct depth. The switch is actually pretty basic: the tip of the key pushes down on a small insullated piece that then pushes a metal strip that closes the contact. Viola! You have ignition, horn and starter.

Yea, yea, I'm beating around the bush. Try pushing the key in a little farther, or wiggling it a little. If that fails, open the head light shell and look for the contacts below the key. It is all at the very front and pretty obvious. With the key in all the way, take a toothpick and stick it beneath the metal strip so that the contacts touch.
You should get an ignition-on situation....

Let me know if it works.

--Steve

Steve-
Sometimes I am guilty of not following my own advice. That advice being, keep it simple, stupid. Simple it was. I have no schematics or reference for this bike. I own mostly British bikes. The fuses are housed differently. After scratching my head for a bit, I got out my DVOM and pulled the start switch, ohm tested the relay in the lamp bucket. Traced wires and checked grounds. That all lead me to the blown fuse. Problem solved. Classic case of over thinking a stratigic diagnosis. I own an automotive repair shop and if it were one of my employees, Id never let him live the mis-diagnosis down. Thanks for the advice, though. Cant wait for my manuals to get here.
Jason