bosch oil filter

The difference? $19,993.

I started to change my oil a few days ago and could not remove the Bosch filter. Tried everything mentioned above, even the screws thru the wrench into the filter.

Finally dropped the pan and squished what was left of the filter with gaint water pump pliers. It finally broke loose.

Probabley tightened the filter to much last change. (you think?)

My cure now is to use K&N #163 filter. They have a 17mm nut welded to the bottom. $13.99ea. online.

Ragman

Kayseventyfive,

You are a lucky man . The Lisle coil wrench is discontinued.

That wrench would do the trick!

Ragman

Sailingfool said:

The difference? $19,993.

Click to expand...

Here's your sign..........

It is amazing people will drop $18K+ on a bike and bitch about a $17 oil filter, that most only change once a year... I personal use Toyota oil filters in our bikes, since we drive Toyota vehicles and use the same filters. I do buy a BMW filter once a year to get the crush washer and oring, but use the Toyota filters in between. I don't buy new bikes, so I support the dealer buy buying all my parts through them.

jcridge said:

Here's your sign..........

It is amazing people will drop $18K+ on a bike...

Click to expand...

On ADV recently: You know what the cheapest thing on a BMW is?


The rider.

Sand it

Cut a strip of sandpaper about 1/2 inch and long enough to go around the inside of the filter wrench. Thin enough to fit between the wrench and filter. This should give you the grip you need and take up the slack of an improper fitting. 120 grit would be fine and we all have it.

Dave

jcridge said:

Here's your sign..........

It is amazing people will drop $18K+ on a bike and bitch about a $17 oil filter, that most only change once a year... I personal use Toyota oil filters in our bikes, since we drive Toyota vehicles and use the same filters. I do buy a BMW filter once a year to get the crush washer and oring, but use the Toyota filters in between. I don't buy new bikes, so I support the dealer buy buying all my parts through them.

Click to expand...

This is beginning to sound to me a lot like a "if you have a $100 head get a $100 helmet" discussion. I've read every one of the web sites I've ever found that investigated oil filter design. These were for cars, but we're talking about a car filter on a bike in this case, so I'll say I believe the results transfer. Basically, every one of the commercial brand of oil filters were mechanically sound and could perform their job. Fram in particular seemed to always be of very cheap construction, but NAPA, Bosch, Purolator, etc. were credible products. The Mobile1 filters in particular were over-built, but not bad to have if someone runs their car excessive mileages between changes.

What we are talking about here is a brand name filter from the same company who makes the fuel injection system and fuel filter on these bikes - not some unknown, third-world knock-off design. The BMW OEM filter is crazy expensive, especially when you can get the same product for a car for much, much less. As a rule, I don't mind paying a bit more for the BMW branded whatever. But, in my case I have four K-Bikes, all of which are going to get a filter change at least once a year, so that's a difference of $40 to $80 a year. If I thought I was cutting corners and risking the engine in any way, I wouldn't even consider it. But, I am not convinced that the BMW filter is an any way superior to the Bosch. If someone feels otherwise, then they should buy what makes them feel comfortable. And, yes - the cheapest thing on a BMW is the rider.

I guess I am one of those cheap guys.

I was not happy with the way the BMW wrench fit the (ahem) BMW filter, so supporting my local dealer in that area was out of the question.

BTW, valve grinding paste did make it grip better.

ragman said:

My cure now is to use K&N #163 filter. They have a 17mm nut welded to the bottom. $13.99ea. online.

Ragman

Click to expand...

Have you done that? How much clearance is there between the nut and the bottom?

They are very good filters, and I have been curious about using one on a BMW, but the nut clearance was always a concern.

ragman said:

The Lisle coil wrench is discontinued.

Ragman

Click to expand...

Try asking http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/wardsautosupply/

.

The Bosch oil filter is made by Purolator, used to be made by Champion Labs. It is one of the best filters money can buy.

Ralph Sims

filter wrench

I have used fram filters in the past and the wrench slips.So i cleaned the inside of wrench with brakeclean and put a small dab of silicone to hold a 1/4-20 flat washer and let dry. [i put the washer on a flat side of the flilter wrench] Monte My flatwasher idea did'nt work so well this time. So i used the sheet metel screws and it did the trick! mMonte

kseventyfive,

I installed the K&N. Fits fine. No interfernce with cover on the pan.

The # is KN163. $13.99.
Can be found at; http://www.pashnit.com/product/kn_oil_filters.html

May be less expensive elsewhere, I don't know.

I'm going to run it with Mobil 1 20/50 and see how that works out.

Thanx for the link. He didn't have one at this time. Maybe the K&N will do the trick.

Hope that helps,.
Ragman

PGlaves said:

I think the number of flutes is different. I'd go to an auto parts store or big box store and buy the size wrench designed to fit that filter. Get a metal one - the plastic ones won't fit up into the sump. And, you may need to grind a few ridges off the outside diameter of the wrench.

As an alternative - drill a couple of holes in your BMW wrench and drive sheet metal screws up through the filter into the filter can. Messy - but it works. Drill the holes closer to the outside circumference than the center for good leverage.

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I have two oil filter wrenches. One is the expensive BMW wrench which is a sloppy fit on the Bosch 72161 filter. The second is a steel oil filter wrench sold by Drag Specialties that is a tight fit on the Bosch 72161 filter.

Neither worked. Neither would budge the oil filter. Thanks to Paul Glaves sheet metal screw suggestion, I was able to remove the oil filter. Even then it was a very careful touch and go. That thing was on to tight.

What a poor design.

Glad you could get it off, but i'm curious about how "that thing was on too tight" = "what a poor design".

bikerfish1100 said:

Glad you could get it off, but i'm curious about how "that thing was on too tight" = "what a poor design".

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Burying the oil filter in the sump so only certain wrenches can access it only from the end is a very poor design, tight or not.

i see your point. that is a downside to the design. greater protection to the filter is a plus- especially if you're riding a GS bike (same location on the 11xx & 1200 oilhead bikes).

My Bosch was installed too tight(by me).

I tried most of the above solutions with no luck.

Finally dropped the pan and grabbed the filter with big water pump pliers and got it off.

I then installed a K&N filter. It has a nut welded on top.

Worked good. I had a couple of Bosch filters and used one.

This time I didn't tighten it too much.

Guess I'll find out next oil change.

Ragman

I've probably done 25+ classic K oil changes in my life and never had a problem with the filter being too tight. Two quick points....

Filter cup removers vary widely in fit. My good friend recently bought a K75C and I gave her a BMW oil filter kit I had laying around. We took the filter to Autozone to find the correct filter cup, and even in the same stack of the same cups the fit varied widely. Very snug is perfect so it will hold the filter tightly when slid on - loose is bad. It is actually a nice filter cup (especially for $6), the fit is better and the sides are deeper, providing a better and more stable grip, than the $20 one I bought at my local BMW dealer many years ago.

When putting the new one on your classic K, put the filter in the filter cup, oil the rubber gasket (fill filter with oil at your discretion, I always do), screw in hand tight to snug, insert ratchet and turn 1/4 revolution. That is it, you'll want to tighten more, don't do it!

ted said:

i've probably done 25+ classic k oil changes in my life and never had a problem with the filter being too tight. Two quick points....

Filter cup removers vary widely in fit. My good friend recently bought a k75c and i gave her a bmw oil filter kit i had laying around. We took the filter to autozone to find the correct filter cup, and even in the same stack of the same cups the fit varied widely. Very snug is perfect so it will hold the filter tightly when slid on - loose is bad. It is actually a nice filter cup (especially for $6), the fit is better and the sides are deeper, providing a better and more stable grip, than the $20 one i bought at my local bmw dealer many years ago.

When putting the new one on your classic k, put the filter in the filter cup, oil the rubber gasket (fill filter with oil at your discretion, i always do), screw in hand tight to snug, insert ratchet and turn 1/4 revolution. That is it, you'll want to tighten more, don't do it!

Click to expand...

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