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Pulled the trigher on a Brick

Well I am now an offical brickster. I bought this 1987 K75S 10,000 miles with new tires, brakes, battery, fillters and all fluids changed with in the past 400 miles. The only flaw is the fork seals leak like a sieve.

These are the before photos. I will keep you advised of my resotraton process. Other than spit and polish she's gonna get a new coat of pain Sergaent Seat and progressive shorter shock.

Wish me luck.

IMG_1143.jpg


IMG_1145.jpg

VERY COOL!!!:thumb :thumb :thumb

Welcome to the gang.:buds

When you were saying "seafoam green", I thought YUK! But that's Columbia Silver, a very good looking original color.

Other than the tank, the rest of the paint looks to be in nice shape. You might want to REALLY consider just having the tank painted to match. That will save you probably $800 on painting and won't shout repaint.

For bringing out the luster of the original paint, I've had great results with a cleaner polish called WET PAINT.
http://www.wetpaintglaze.com/detailing.html

This stuff is absolutely incredible!! It really does give the paint that wet deep shine.
I've bought several body panels off e-bay where the paint was VERY sun faded. After some buffing with this stuff (VERY easy), the paint looks brand new!

I never wash my bikes anymore (unless they get caught in the rain) I just give them a quick wipe with this stuff and it looks like I've just spent the whole day washing and waxing.
 
98lee said:
As for your theory about the silver Ss, I'm more inclined to believe that the dealer ordered your bike with a solo seat option which would include the handle delete.:dunno

I would imagine that the solo seat option is very rare as most dealers would not want to stock a bike that limited its marketability. But it sure looks cool!:thumb


:dance :dance :dance

IIRC Mischlers (the selling dealer) got my bike from a dealer that went under. He might have said in St Louis, this I assume would have been in the first part of 1987.
Would need to ask some dealer personnel that were around then, like techs who uncrated/predelivery inspected these to ask if they remember if any of this color had this same set up. I am kind of doubting the "order" theory. My dealer was very adamant that the first "batch" were red, the second "batch" were black, and a final smaller batch of this color came through last and they were all like mine, with the solo seat, etc etc..
Would seem to be a hard thing to prove or disprove at this point.
Price I paid seemed in line with what I read back then, about $7K with state sales tax.


Gilly
 
gas tanks for K100 & K75 are different part numbers- i am fairly positive that they are not interchangeable.
A 100 tank will fit a 75 just fine. Back in 2000, I put a custom, oversized 100 tank on the ex-GF's K75S. Also added driving lights and GS handguards. That was a sweet bike. I really miss it.
-K
 
If I might suggest a couple of things. First, would be fork gators from the middle 80's GS's - the ones with the sharp pleats. I think they help the looks of the "skinny" K75S fork tubes, and without a doubt they will greatly increase the life of your fork seals. The other suggestion is to use EBC Double-H front pads. They bite much better than the stock pads, but seem to be easy on the rotors. http://www.ebcbrakes.com/mb-streetbikes.html

Nice K75S. I hear you regarding the gators. My fork tubes are pitted and need to be replaced. So the gators will on for certain. And I agree it beefs up the front end appearance.
 
I had gaiters put on mine too. Not sure where they came from but I know they are still on the bike and are the "courser" type of folds and look fine.
Will try to put a couple pics of of what it looked like when I sold it, all "farkleized".
Gilly
 
Nice K75S. I hear you regarding the gators. My fork tubes are pitted and need to be replaced. So the gators will on for certain. And I agree it beefs up the front end appearance.

One option worth trying before replacing the tubes is to put a little Bondo into the pitted area carefully and then sand down carefully while still wet with a Bed Bath and Beyond flyer. Prep the tube properly before hand by removing any residue of oil, per Bondo instructions.


I've done this before and its worked in a couple instances...a lot less painful to do than remove the forks and tubes, etc.
 
A 100 tank will fit a 75 just fine. Back in 2000, I put a custom, oversized 100 tank on the ex-GF's K75S. Also added driving lights and GS handguards. That was a sweet bike. I really miss it.
-K

Missing: K75 and girlfriend. Reward for bike. :dance
 
A 100 tank will fit a 75 just fine. Back in 2000, I put a custom, oversized 100 tank on the ex-GF's K75S. Also added driving lights and GS handguards. That was a sweet bike. I really miss it.
-K

Seems like some K75 tanks had something on the front of the tank to hold a radiator shroud.
 
One option worth trying before replacing the tubes is to put a little Bondo into the pitted area carefully and then sand down carefully while still wet with a Bed Bath and Beyond flyer. Prep the tube properly before hand by removing any residue of oil, per Bondo instructions.


I've done this before and its worked in a couple instances...a lot less painful to do than remove the forks and tubes, etc.

Thanks,

Sounds like it might work as wire brushed them and they looked pretty good with a little ultra fine sand paper my be able to plish the out.

I still have to pull the seals and replace them. Forking by Frank wants $264.00 for a pair of fork tubes
 
Yeah you can see the gauge, I had an oil pressure and water temp gauge, but what you are asking about was probably one of my less useful innovations, it is a rheostat (dimmer) for the cluster lights, it did work fine but I rarely adjusted it. Although once in awhile the lights did seem a bit bright and I had to turn them down a bit, maybe it was useful after all.

Gilly
 
Or do you mean the one up by the turn signal? The dimmer is by the left gauge.
Did I mention the big valve kit I had done by CC Products? zoom-zoom.

Gilly
 
The dial is a gauge, I can't remember which is which for sure now but I believe the left is oil pressure, there was a matching one on the right which was water temp, pretty sure this is correct.
Gilly
 
Again I am assuming by dial you mean the gauge, there are a few farkles on the left side especially, the knob is farthest back, that's the dimmer switch knob, next is the gauge, the one way up by the left turn sig lens up on top is a "special" farkle.

Gilly
 
Gauges/Dial

Got it. Oil presure and water temp would be nice.
 
fork gators

i have k75s and saw the fork gators but have not found a supplier. does anyone know where to get these?

thanks,

craig
 
i have k75s and saw the fork gators but have not found a supplier. does anyone know where to get these?

thanks,

craig

The ones I used are from a mid-80's R80GS. I don't remember the exact year, but I believe the later GS's had forks with the same size fork tubes and slider tops as on the K75S - close enough to work.
 
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