Advice for Eastern Boys heading West

Hello all,

This August I and two other Pennsylvania riders are heading out your way. This will be our virgin experience west of the Mississippi. My question to all of you westerners, is can you give us any advice? We are not necessarily looking for places to see or stay (although that would be appreciated as well), what we are looking for are tips for your neck of the woods i.e. things you can't learn from books or the internet. For example, if you guys were traveling to PA, we could give you advice on how to deal with White Tail Deer or Amish Buggies.

We are planning to ride through MN, ND and into MT in order to see Glacier, then heading south to do Yellowstone and returning East through WY, SD, IA etc. We are really excited about the trip...and any info you experts can pass along would be great!

BTW - we will be camping the whole way and will be traveling from the 1 - 16 of August.

Thanks in advance!

Mule deer are bigger than whitetail, elk are bigger than mule deer, and buffalo are bigger than elk. None of them obey the rules; but I think your biggest change in watching out for animals will be free-range cattle. Even fenced ranches will herd them across the road from one pasture to another, and they all seem compelled to empty their bowels on the pavement.
Beef isn't just for dinner, it's for revenge.

It will be hot of course, but it's not near as humid as it is out east. It's really easy to dry yourself out if you're wearing mesh or vented gear, so drink more. Soaking your T-shirt with water at rest stops and such helps with cooling off, 'cause there's not enough sweat to do it for you.

There are lots of mosquitoes too. Voracious little ones that itch good at first, but it stops after half an hour or so. Bug spray helps, but it ruins plastics and such, so keep it away from your gear.

You'll be travelling at the same time as the Sturgis crowd; so places to stay (even campsites) might be harder to find. Prices can go up temporarily too.

I'm originally from PA, and live here now. I'd be happy to help with more specific questions if you have any; feel free to send a PM if you want... Happy Trails!

Speaking of Sturgis, if you haven't been there, you should make a day or two of it. It's an experience you need to see at least once.

You are headed into some long dry stretches. Get creative with your water supply and access. I sacrifice my tank bag mostly to a camelback in a little cooler iced down well. Lasts all day in Texas. Also, be free with the spray on sun lotion. Better review your gas stops, especially if you each have different distances. KOAs are good for relaible safe camping with showers. Keep a camera available. Enjoy, sounds like a fun trip.

108625 forgot to mention turkey, sheep and antelope. Also rattle snakes, bears!

If you are that close might consider Waterton Lakes and other National Parks in Alberta. Glacier is overrated and over crowded compared to the Canadian parks.

When near Yellowstone do Bear Tooth Pass. Also don't plan on camping in Yellowstone or Teton parks unless you have reservations. There are showers at Old Faithful. In Wyoming you can get a free state map at any weigh and check station.

Don't pay daily park entry fees (federal) it is far cheaper to get a yearly pass. ($80 or senior 62+ $10 lifetime) Yellowstone pass is $25 cars $20 MC then again if you go to Devil's tower again at badlands....etc IT ADDS UP FAST! The $80 pass is good for USPS, USFS and BLM

http://store.usgs.gov/pass/annual.html

Carry cold weather gear too. In SD it can be 115 in daytime and 20 miles away that night be in the 20s in August. There is BMW rally in Spearfish,SD (16 miles from Sturgis) about a week before Sturgis Rally. A large threshing bee and steam power meet the week after.

In the Black Hills there is much great riding Spearfish Canyon, Iron Mtn. Road, Needles Hwy. Custer State Park...too much to list. The Black hills are quite volatile and campfires are prohibited almost everywhere. Check out the motorcycle museum in Sturgis. The car museum in Rapid City. There is a good Museum (FREE) at Ft Meade about 5 miles from Sturgis (this is where Custer was stationed, also has a VA Hospital) Deadwood has gambling.

Most of the Black hills are a dead zone for cell phones and PDAs, but WIFI is common.

http://www.sdgfp.info/parks/
http://www.us-parks.com/
http://www.sdgfp.info/Parks/Regions/Custer/custersp.htm
http://www.rapidcitychamber.com/
http://www.blackhillstouristinfo.com/
http://www.museumsusa.org/museums/info/1159843
http://www.sturgismuseum.com/
http://www.lasr.net/pages/city.php?...City_ID=SD0101138&Event_ID=SD0101138e003&VE=Y

72598 said:

If you are that close might consider Waterton Lakes and other National Parks in Alberta. Glacier is overrated and over crowded compared to the Canadian parks.

When near Yellowstone do Bear Tooth Pass.

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Last summer we visited Glacier, Banff and Jasper.

Skip Glacier and head directly to Banff and Jasper. You won't be disappointed.

Ride the Bear Tooth and plan on spending most of a day to enjoy the many scenic vistas. Be sure to ride up to the fire tower. Good dirt road. Rode my RT up it with no problems. The view from the top will take your breath away.

Have fun.

Ride safe.

if you see this sign you are sharing the road with cattle.

Rich said:

Speaking of Sturgis, if you haven't been there, you should make a day or two of it. It's an experience you need to see at least once.

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I have seen photos and videos of it. I can't imagine wanting to actually be there.
Much better use of your time doing other stuff.
Different strokes, I guess.
Just sayin'.

I wouldn't skip Glacier; the roads might be a bit rough but it's worth it. If anything, I found Waterton to be the only "overrated" part... and regardless of the exchange rate, Canada isn't cheap.

For us, being easterners, the adventure really begins as you pass the Mississippi. As you transition, maybe shooting a bit south through Clarksdale, just south of Memphis (another 'don't miss'...."thank you .... thank you very much") and take in a bit of Delta Blues. Lots of choices after that. So many choices and so many gorgeous (and spacious) places to see. You did not say how your route looks so maybe if you shared that you might get some specifics. Catch 66, route 50 (get the T-Shirt), north rim and south rim, Yellowstone, Cal #1, ..... so many things to see. Just try riding in California and not sing Beach Boys songs or ride through Santa Monica without Cheryl Crow singing in the distance. Great people and spectacular places. Enjoy you adventure! - Bob (eastern city 'kid' who has enjoyed every journey west)

Thanks!

Guys,

Thanks so much for all of the great information! This is why I love the MOA...sharing experiences and knowledge. I look forward to more info....

In response to a previous question: From Yellowstone heading home, we are planning on riding through SD (Mt Rushmore and the Badlands) and then south towards St. Louis, then cutting back NE through KY and OH and finally back into the Keystone State.

Someone told me that gas stations in rural Montana close early (~4pm)...is this true? Is there anything else to know in regards to gas stations out west? A lot of our gas stations out here in PA are open 24 hours...and all pumps take credit cards.

Will we have trouble finding groceries for dinner when we roll into towns for our evening camping?

108625 said:

I wouldn't skip Glacier; the roads might be a bit rough but it's worth it. If anything, I found Waterton to be the only "overrated" part... and regardless of the exchange rate, Canada isn't cheap.

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you're right we're not cheap..... but we can be a bit expensive -Bob

It'll be much drier than you're used to, so be sure to bring some kind of lip balm, stay hydrated and be careful with your sun exposure. If you don't have one, be sure to bring the requisite Big Floppy Hat. With no shade to speak of in large portions of the west, sunburns are a very real problem.

When you're riding, be concious of how far the next town is. It's entirely possible and realistic to have your gas light come on 50 miles from the next town.

Don't ride after dark. Too many critters.

The speed limit by the government might be 65, but the locals will be blazing along at 80. Use them as rabbits, but watch your rear.

Be aware that elevation will control temperatures, so be prepared to start the day with two or three layers under your gear, stopping to peel them off or put them back on as needed. You may also experience riding in a valley under cloudy skies, then riding right up a mountain pass and into rain, then back down out of the rain and on into a beautiful day. Weather can be highly changeable.

Be comfortable riding in wind. Gusty wind is a given in the west, so be prepared to spend lots of time riding with gusty crosswinds, headwinds, and tailwinds. If you ride into a storm, you may be wise to park it for twenty minutes and let the big ugly gusting portion of the storm pass by.

If you're riding to elevation, don't be surprised if you feel funky for a day or two. It's altitude sickness and your best bet is staying hydrated, getting decent sleep, being careful with alcohol and, I'm told, taking some Tylenol. I usually take it easy for a day after I find myself above 5000 feet.

Speaking of elevation, higher altitudes will be chilly at night, so be prepared to break out the layers after dark.

Enjoy the west. We liked it so much we moved out here. After living in the east, where you rarely get a good look at the horizon, seeing an uninterrupted horizon 360 degrees around you can be humbling. You realize that you, as a human being, are an insect on the face of the planet and that there are forces that are larger, stronger and longer lasting than puny human effort. Whether you chalk that up to a deity or the forces of nature is up to you, but either way, it's a wonderful perspective to have from time to time.

deitscher said:

Someone told me that gas stations in rural Montana close early (~4pm)...is this true? Is there anything else to know in regards to gas stations out west? A lot of our gas stations out here in PA are open 24 hours...and all pumps take credit cards.
Will we have trouble finding groceries for dinner when we roll into towns for our evening camping?

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Good questions.
Yes, some rural gas stations do close early, but many of them have switched to after hours credit card pumps... Still, it's best to stop for gas when you see it available.
The same goes for groceries; some of the "towns" on the map are just junctions where two country roads meet, with no services. Others are dying farm/ranch communities, where there may not be as much available as there once was. A lot of these small towns will still have a diner or some sort of "general store".
I would suggest packing some camping food (freeze dried, etc.) as a back up plan, for evenings when you strike out trying to find something locally.

Kbasa did mention some points I overlooked about altitude and wind. Fact is I've lived here long enough to be so used to both I've forgotten what it's like without them. Fortunately, summer is not what we call the windy season, though it may still seem strong by comparison. Everything's relative.

It can get cold at night when you're camping out, particularly in the mountains. Remember that mountain sunsets come early and sunrise is late, due to the "taller" horizon, so allow time to set up camp before it get's dark.

Happy trails!

A few more things:

ALTITUDE

At even a low altitude like 5000 ft you will get sunburn about 6-7 times as fast as at sea level. (even worse when swimming)

If you are dark skinned or have a tan you are not immune. WEAR SUNSCREEN not tanning lotion.

If you are blonde or redheaded might consider skipping the sunscreen and wear a long sleeve. (also use zinc oxide on nose)

Skin will dry out so carry some lotion.

Wear a hat when off your bike. (helmets are quite painful to wear when your bald spot is sunburnt.)

Try to buy lip-balm that has a SPF of at least 30.

The suns rays are more intense, even if reflected, so wear sunglasses around snow or water. (your eyes can get sunburnt too)

Liquor will hit you a lot harder. (one or two beers feels like a 6 pack at sea level)

Water boils at alower temp. so cooking will take a little longer.

In some smaller towns grocery stores may keep bankers hours (8-5) and be closed on Sunday. (In some towns even Super Wall Mart closes at 8pm)

Remember that in a lot of the West (especially mountains) you will have no cell coverage! (you can usually tell these areas as they still have pay phones)

tourunigo said:

you're right we're not cheap..... but we can be a bit expensive -Bob

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That's why you're always welcome here. Bring loonies and beer.

72598 said:

A few more things:

ALTITUDE

At even a low altitude like 5000 ft you will get sunburn about 6-7 times as fast as at sea level. (even worse when swimming)

If you are dark skinned or have a tan you are not immune. WEAR SUNSCREEN not tanning lotion.

If you are blonde or redheaded might consider skipping the sunscreen and wear a long sleeve. (also use zinc oxide on nose)

Skin will dry out so carry some lotion.

Wear a hat when off your bike. (helmets are quite painful to wear when your bald spot is sunburnt.)

Try to buy lip-balm that has a SPF of at least 30.

The suns rays are more intense, even if reflected, so wear sunglasses around snow or water. (your eyes can get sunburnt too)

Liquor will hit you a lot harder. (one or two beers feels like a 6 pack at sea level)

Water boils at alower temp. so cooking will take a little longer.

In some smaller towns grocery stores may keep bankers hours (8-5) and be closed on Sunday. (In some towns even Super Wall Mart closes at 8pm)

Remember that in a lot of the West (especially mountains) you will have no cell coverage! (you can usually tell these areas as they still have pay phones)

Click to expand...

excellent advise regarding the sunscreen and lip-balm. Being fair skinned I can burn up real quick when riding all day. Between the wind (I usually have the shield up) and sun my nose, upper cheeks and lips can take a beating if I neglect applying adequate treatment. Add to this the sunglasses and it doesn't take long to look like a cross between a lobster and a racoon. And when not riding be aware of the sun's embrace because a day of riding with a burn really is no fun (and if you are experiencing hair loss on the top... like I am .... be sure to have a hat. The helmet will no longer be your friend.) -Bob

start early

If you are going thru any of the parks, stay overnight as close to the entrance as possible and get an early start. People and traffic increase as the day goes on. Narrow roads and lots of traffic take away from the real sights.

Speaking of the NPs- if you see a colelction of cars stopped on the side of teh road, slow down. it's a "wild animal event". could be anything from a family of moose, a coyote, a flock of bighorn sheep, a herd of elk (yeah, i've heard of them) or to the relatively mundane marmots or Rocky Mountain Squirrels (amazing what some people find intriguing).

Another Question

Hey Guys and Gals,

Thanks again for all of your info. I have been talking with my riding companions and have come up with more questions for you guys to ponder:

1. What experiences does anyone have with camping in Glacier or Yellowstone? I know people say that they fill up quickly, usually by lunch. How are making reservations? Do they actually work? Would you guys suggest it? Do we make reservations online or should we call?

2. How much time should we allow to do Bear Tooth? We will be hitting it after leaving Yellowstone and starting our return trip east.

3. Our trip out west (as of right now) will be from Aug 1 - 16. So, I guess we will be hitting Sturgis traffic. Are they as invasive as I have heard? Any suggestions on how to avoid them?

Any help will be greatly appreciated...