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Thread: Assorted Fairing Questions '84 R80RT

  1. #16
    Registered User 88bmwjeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Walnut Creek, CA
    Mike, I just sent you an email with the PDF.
    Jeff in W.C.
    1988 R100 RT (the other woman)
    "I got my motorcycle jacket but I'm walking all the time." Joe Strummer

  2. #17
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Hi Mike:

    I'll suggest that you do not try to drill them out, since once the rivet attaches to the drill bit and begins to spin, it heats up, and as another poster mentioned, enlarges the hole. Then, you have a whole new problem.

    The best way I found was to use a punch on the edge of each rivet, carefully collapsing the top part into itself. This will get easier after the first one. Once you get it collapsed sufficiently, just tap it through the fairing towards the rear.

    To install the new rivets, get a drywall screw and a pop rivet tool. File down the threads on the screw so that it will fit into the pop rivet tool. The fluted head of the screw does a great job of spreading the backside of the new rivet as it is compressed. PM me if you need more clarification.

    Good Luck!


  3. #18
    I'm about to squeeze those copper rivets in place. I'm tempted to convert to plastic screws; page 79;
    Anybody seen "stuff" you can screw together, do the rivets job, and have an open center, so that the center windscreen piece can go through? That would be neat!

  4. #19
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Marfa, TX
    Quote Originally Posted by 88bmwjeff View Post
    If you can't borrow the tool, there is a low cost alternative. I found a great way to do it on the internet a few years ago. While it's no longer available on the net (it vanished), I have a copy of the article. Just PM with your email and I'll send you a copy. In any case, I try and explain the procedure in the following paragraph.

    Bring a copper rivet to the hardware store and buy countersunk bolts, washers, and nuts. Place the rivet side to be crushed toward the countersunk head first, add some washers, the nut, and tighten. This will begin spread the rivet portion out. After a short bit, you will reach the maximum that's achievable. You're only half way there. Remove the bolt from the rivet, then re-assemble in this order. Washers on the bolt first, then the rivet (side to be crushed toward the washers),
    more washers and nut. Continue to tighten until the rivet is tight.

    I hope I did an OK job explaining this in the short time I could spend at work. If not, I apologize for confusing anyone. By the way, I used this method when I replaced my dash and rubber seal, and it worked well.
    Do you mind sending me the article you mention?

  5. #20
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Spencerport, NY

    If you don't use the correct hollow rivets

    FYI, Two hollow copper rivets MUST be used in the center of the windscreen. This allows the pain in the butt bracket to fit from front to behind the dash. As Ikcrhis mentioned this is a bear of a design to get the ny lock nuts on and tightened.

    If you don't use this bracket and directly bolt the windscreen, you will give up the adjustment feature.

    This is only true of stock style windscreens such as BMW direct replacement or Clear-view.

    The parabellum shields use an entirely different mounting system that does not use the rubber strip and does not have a tilt or adjustable screen. Cheers, St.

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