• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

1100R head gasket

henzilla

not so retired
Staff member


Not ready to go to ADVrider....so....
replacing leaking gaskets on the '95 1100R, pulled head and cylinder to replace the "not there" o-rings on the locating dowels behind the cylinder...maybe a shred of one left.... it was leaking a little here,the majority was the larger gasket around one of the studs.

anyways, have the old head gasket which is one piece...the new one is 4 pieces riveted together even though the package says 2 ea, the other sticker says 1 piece...I am assuming it is one "four piece" gasket ... the part # is 11 12 1 342 869 And splitting the gasket into two sets appears to be not intended.

Any confiramtion?

the dealer called me today and said they had my gasket set in, I am thinking it's the one for the other side.
also hoping the dreaded stud stripout using the degree wheel is not in my future...read a few diff opinions on re-torqueing those and wouldn't mind a few more opinions
 
Changing head gaskets isn't a trivial task; it gets screwed up more than any other repair I can think of. It might be that other members here don't want to get involved if you're not even sure of the parts and you aren't comfortable with the angle-torque procedure.

The 869 4-layer gasket is the right one (one) and the angle torque procedure in the manual is the correct one also. Make sure you have the cam sprocket correctly positioned on the camshaft before you tighten that down.
 
bump...

nobody has changed one?

Just finished the job on an 1150RT. It wasn't really that bad. The torquing procedure wasn't NEARLY as scary as I thought it would be. Remember that the prelim torque is quite low. I did the 90 - 90 by starting with the torque wrench perpendicular to the floor, and then bringing it parallel to the floor (90 deg).

I also had to repair a previously stripped out helicoil on one of the studs. But that's another story...
 
Thanks Anton & dt,
I am OK with procedure with angle torqueing, done it a few times...just not on a BMW oilhead head gasket job having heard/read all the debates.

I played with the cam sprocket line up a few times to see what the issues could be...I'm good on that one too. The gasket set just had me scratching my head with the two diff labels.The new parts guy didn't have a clue ,so I just wanted a confirmation it was the right one

Thanks again
 
Without searching where, recently read a few threads on different sites debating whether the torque values in Clymer vs Hanes vs BMW maintenance manuals were correct. Someone stripped threads out on the head studs using one vs the other, another said he did not use a degree wheel method. I typically follow the manuals unless I can have someone justify why not too. As far as trusting everything someone says on the Internet...gotta take that with a grain of salt or I should have a dozen final drive failures by now. You and Paul G have obviously seen your share of issues so I listen better when y'all speak.
I have all three resources ,but am using the info from the BMW manual I have and have not had any issues personally. Have not compared all three manuals side by side either to see if any differences are noted.

Just did a clutch job on a local guys '97 R1100, the previous dealership mechanic(s) really did some sloppy work,IMO, and hardly anything was torqued or put back with any feel for craftsmanship , several mounting bolts were really loose before I even touched them...already had a new transmission at 20K according to current owner,yet at 35K it needed some attention. This has nothing to do with the '95 of Helen's I am working on currently,just that I do try to do the thing right the first time.
 
Back
Top