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Thread: 1100R head gasket

  1. #1
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    1100R head gasket



    Not ready to go to ADVrider....so....
    replacing leaking gaskets on the '95 1100R, pulled head and cylinder to replace the "not there" o-rings on the locating dowels behind the cylinder...maybe a shred of one left.... it was leaking a little here,the majority was the larger gasket around one of the studs.

    anyways, have the old head gasket which is one piece...the new one is 4 pieces riveted together even though the package says 2 ea, the other sticker says 1 piece...I am assuming it is one "four piece" gasket ... the part # is 11 12 1 342 869 And splitting the gasket into two sets appears to be not intended.

    Any confiramtion?

    the dealer called me today and said they had my gasket set in, I am thinking it's the one for the other side.
    also hoping the dreaded stud stripout using the degree wheel is not in my future...read a few diff opinions on re-torqueing those and wouldn't mind a few more opinions
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

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  2. #2
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    bump...

    nobody has changed one?
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

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  3. #3
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    Changing head gaskets isn't a trivial task; it gets screwed up more than any other repair I can think of. It might be that other members here don't want to get involved if you're not even sure of the parts and you aren't comfortable with the angle-torque procedure.

    The 869 4-layer gasket is the right one (one) and the angle torque procedure in the manual is the correct one also. Make sure you have the cam sprocket correctly positioned on the camshaft before you tighten that down.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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  4. #4
    dtpetty
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    bump...

    nobody has changed one?
    Just finished the job on an 1150RT. It wasn't really that bad. The torquing procedure wasn't NEARLY as scary as I thought it would be. Remember that the prelim torque is quite low. I did the 90 - 90 by starting with the torque wrench perpendicular to the floor, and then bringing it parallel to the floor (90 deg).

    I also had to repair a previously stripped out helicoil on one of the studs. But that's another story...

  5. #5
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Thanks Anton & dt,
    I am OK with procedure with angle torqueing, done it a few times...just not on a BMW oilhead head gasket job having heard/read all the debates.

    I played with the cam sprocket line up a few times to see what the issues could be...I'm good on that one too. The gasket set just had me scratching my head with the two diff labels.The new parts guy didn't have a clue ,so I just wanted a confirmation it was the right one

    Thanks again
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

    Be decisive, right or wrong.The road of life is paved with
    flat squirrels who couldn't make a decision~unknown

  6. #6
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    .. having heard/read all the debates.
    Debates? I haven't heard of any.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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    Virginia Motorrad Werkstatt BMW motorcycle service and repair in central Virginia

  7. #7
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Without searching where, recently read a few threads on different sites debating whether the torque values in Clymer vs Hanes vs BMW maintenance manuals were correct. Someone stripped threads out on the head studs using one vs the other, another said he did not use a degree wheel method. I typically follow the manuals unless I can have someone justify why not too. As far as trusting everything someone says on the Internet...gotta take that with a grain of salt or I should have a dozen final drive failures by now. You and Paul G have obviously seen your share of issues so I listen better when y'all speak.
    I have all three resources ,but am using the info from the BMW manual I have and have not had any issues personally. Have not compared all three manuals side by side either to see if any differences are noted.

    Just did a clutch job on a local guys '97 R1100, the previous dealership mechanic(s) really did some sloppy work,IMO, and hardly anything was torqued or put back with any feel for craftsmanship , several mounting bolts were really loose before I even touched them...already had a new transmission at 20K according to current owner,yet at 35K it needed some attention. This has nothing to do with the '95 of Helen's I am working on currently,just that I do try to do the thing right the first time.
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

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  8. #8
    Registered User cb75076's Avatar
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    With guidance from folks on this board, I successfully changed my head gaskets in late 2008. I believe the replacement gasket had 4 layers riveted together. You can follow this thread for the details:

    http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=30708



    Jerry Holtz
    Maplewood NJ

  9. #9
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Got mine back together and purring without a dribble again... all's well!
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

    Be decisive, right or wrong.The road of life is paved with
    flat squirrels who couldn't make a decision~unknown

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