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CMCRAE132066
Guest
my bike is in storage right now so can't really have a great look at how I might raise the bar height 2 or 3 inches. Any suggestions?
thanks
thanks
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COMMANDO74
Guest
Good question regarding the barbacks. I am looking for a pair myself. I haven't found anything yet, so I will be curious if you find something..
Handlebar Risers
A relatively easy way to just raise the bars is to find a set of lower handlebar clamps and add them to the existing ones. This does require you to find and install longer studs, but it works quite well. It will render your steering damper useless, though, just like all bar-back arrangements. If you want to pull them back, Bob's BMW has a kit for your bike. The last I knew, A&S had the bar-backs Luftmeister used to sell. If your bike has a handlebar master cylinder, you'll need a longer brake hose.
A relatively easy way to just raise the bars is to find a set of lower handlebar clamps and add them to the existing ones. This does require you to find and install longer studs, but it works quite well. It will render your steering damper useless, though, just like all bar-back arrangements. If you want to pull them back, Bob's BMW has a kit for your bike. The last I knew, A&S had the bar-backs Luftmeister used to sell. If your bike has a handlebar master cylinder, you'll need a longer brake hose.
PeoriaMac
New member
On eBay Bar-backs--two days left
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLI...ItemQQimsxZ20090119?IMSfp=TL0901191210003r963
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLI...ItemQQimsxZ20090119?IMSfp=TL0901191210003r963
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COMMANDO74
Guest
Great! Thanks for the info!!!!
5
535IS
Guest
Not useless; just not easily adjustable. Set it for whatever you want and remove the knob.
Not unless someone has converted it. The '77 MC was under the tank. Nonetheless, getting all the cables to fit without kinking around something like the instrument pod will be a minor PITA.
The bar-backs on ebay might be OK, but this depends on whether you're looking for farther back (those are) or farther up (they aren't, at least by much). The one I have is probably another inch setback/up and is infinitely adjustable in a radius around the original bars' center, so they are both higher and closer.
Then, there's the fairing to consider. It's pretty much guaranteed the bars won't clear it at full lock, so just plan on that.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
When I purchased my 77RS it came with bar backs. The photo shows the bars with the bar backs. After I completed the re-do of the bike I found that I preferred the handlebars in the stock position. I've also seen alternate bars used that gave a different feel to the bike. A while back Re-Psycle BMW had an RS with some R65LS handlebars. I considered using some alternate bars before settling on the stock set-up. I've also found that a slight adjustment (rotational) to the bars can make a lot of difference in the comfort level in riding.
Attachments
Had this 77 RS for almost 8 years.
When I bought it it had bar backs and no steering dampner. On the first ride my hands were pinched on the clutch and brake levers when making sharp turns on the bike. The BB's were not like the ones above and did not allow use of the knob. I took them off and never looked back.
Others have used K75s bars with some sucess. And still others have to face the fact the ol back is not what it used to be. May just be time for a different ride
I loved the bar postion. Sporty and good wind buffeting position for me. Plus the bike looked odd without the dash pad. I enjoyed the clean unclutterd view it provided.
I got tired of melting behind the RS fairing in the summer and the poor cornering characteristics and sold this... upgraded to a 95 R100R. Best move I have made in a long time.
When I bought it it had bar backs and no steering dampner. On the first ride my hands were pinched on the clutch and brake levers when making sharp turns on the bike. The BB's were not like the ones above and did not allow use of the knob. I took them off and never looked back.
Others have used K75s bars with some sucess. And still others have to face the fact the ol back is not what it used to be. May just be time for a different ride
I loved the bar postion. Sporty and good wind buffeting position for me. Plus the bike looked odd without the dash pad. I enjoyed the clean unclutterd view it provided.
I got tired of melting behind the RS fairing in the summer and the poor cornering characteristics and sold this... upgraded to a 95 R100R. Best move I have made in a long time.
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7bokide7
Guest
My 77RS came with K75s bars installed. There is no issue with clearing the fairing and it gets me up just enough to get my head above the wind blast - I have the stock low windscreen and I'm around 6' tall.
kstoo
Huckleberry, Gilera &Toad
Ditto, +1
I finally got my RS last year and thought that I would have to resort to K75S bars but to tell you the truth I find it to be the perfect bike for me the way that it is. It takes some discipline to remember NOT to lean on the handlebars but if I stay balanced I find this a better tourer than my old RT.
Wow, I found out that this wonderful design is the best in the world for blocking the wind even when you would really like a little wind! But then, that is not much of a problem, I live in Wisconsin.
was something broken? I have never been on a better handling motorcycle...
NEALART
New member
was something broken? I have never been on a better handling motorcycle...
I think the mono-shock is supposed to be a big improvement.
I have not ridden a mono-shock airhead yet.
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orbitangel
Guest
Dash Panel Fuses?
For years, I've heard folks bitch and moan about the handlebars and riding position of the stock R100RS. I never understood it. I must be the "one in a thousand" for whom the bike just happens to be a perfect fit. As you have, I have found that having the bars (and levers) correctly positioned is a biggie.
I noticed that you have what appear to be two fuse holders on your dash panel, one on either side.
Is that, in fact, what I am seeing there? Did you (or the PO) get your fill of dealing with a blown fuse down inside the headlight bucket (at night?)
I got my fill of that, thirty years ago, just recently got around to fixing it.
I ditched those two fuses and installed two Klixon aviation-type miniature circuit breakers.
If either one pops I can see it and if is just a transient (not an actual short circuit) I can reset it. They just BARELY fit in that location on the panel but they do fit.
No mo fuze bluez fo me!
I also ditched the voltmeter and clock, although I will later add an "improved" voltage monitoring system. I don't NEED a clock - I always wear a watch.
For years, I've heard folks bitch and moan about the handlebars and riding position of the stock R100RS. I never understood it. I must be the "one in a thousand" for whom the bike just happens to be a perfect fit. As you have, I have found that having the bars (and levers) correctly positioned is a biggie.
I noticed that you have what appear to be two fuse holders on your dash panel, one on either side.
Is that, in fact, what I am seeing there? Did you (or the PO) get your fill of dealing with a blown fuse down inside the headlight bucket (at night?)
I got my fill of that, thirty years ago, just recently got around to fixing it.
I ditched those two fuses and installed two Klixon aviation-type miniature circuit breakers.
If either one pops I can see it and if is just a transient (not an actual short circuit) I can reset it. They just BARELY fit in that location on the panel but they do fit.
No mo fuze bluez fo me!
I also ditched the voltmeter and clock, although I will later add an "improved" voltage monitoring system. I don't NEED a clock - I always wear a watch.
Attachments
The bike came with in-dash fuse holders. I didn't care for them, but I did want more accessable fuses of the blade-type. I obtained some water-proof blade-type fuse holders and located them beneath the dash. The old fuse holes were plugged. I also replaced the original clock and voltmeter with some VDO units from a marine supply outfit.
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orbitangel
Guest
Bells & Whistles (er, LIGHTS, that is...)
Aside from the fact that someone used what look like Radio Shack fuse holders, it looks as though the job was "tastefully" done. I do think it looks better now (without them.)
And those VDO gauges look right at home there. Having said that, you probably wouldn't care for my other dash alterations.
To wit: I always found a couple of things a bit irritating about the way BMW did the indicator lights. First, if you get busy in traffic and forget to cancel a turn signal, the first thing you see is the flashing amber light at the bottom of the instrument cluster. Trouble is, by then you have probably forgotten whether is is the left or right signals you left on.
You can't tell by looking at the cluster! This (psychomotor) effect may be aggravated by the thumb control logic (UP for LEFT and DOWN for RIGHT.)
I added LEFT and RIGHT repeater lamps, wired to the front turn signals.
I can see them even in fairly bright sunlight (but they're not blinding at night) and I can tell IMMEDIATELY which side didn't get canceled. And I never have to look down at my right thumb!
You can see the LEFT one flashing along with BMW's "ambiguity indicator" on the cluster, below:
The other irritant is BMW's choice of RED for GEN and AMBER for OIL PRESS FAIL.
Even worse, the amber oil pressure light is right above the amber turn signal light.
I added a bright RED oil pressure fail light near the oil pressure gauge which, of course, BMW never installed. This indicator also has a "Press to Test" feature for checking the lamp. I had an oil pressure switch fail one time, indicating a loss of oil pressure. I immediately shut down the engine and coasted about 10 miles (downhill, of course) to a little berg where I was stranded. If I had had a gauge I would have known I still had oil pressure, and ridden home on 2 wheels instead of in the back of a pickup truck.
None of this is "Stock" of course, but personally, I don't care! I like mine better than a stock one.
The bike came with in-dash fuse holders. I didn't care for them, but I did want more accessable fuses of the blade-type. I obtained some water-proof blade-type fuse holders and located them beneath the dash. The old fuse holes were plugged. I also replaced the original clock and voltmeter with some VDO units from a marine supply outfit.
Aside from the fact that someone used what look like Radio Shack fuse holders, it looks as though the job was "tastefully" done. I do think it looks better now (without them.)
And those VDO gauges look right at home there. Having said that, you probably wouldn't care for my other dash alterations.
To wit: I always found a couple of things a bit irritating about the way BMW did the indicator lights. First, if you get busy in traffic and forget to cancel a turn signal, the first thing you see is the flashing amber light at the bottom of the instrument cluster. Trouble is, by then you have probably forgotten whether is is the left or right signals you left on.
You can't tell by looking at the cluster! This (psychomotor) effect may be aggravated by the thumb control logic (UP for LEFT and DOWN for RIGHT.)
I added LEFT and RIGHT repeater lamps, wired to the front turn signals.
I can see them even in fairly bright sunlight (but they're not blinding at night) and I can tell IMMEDIATELY which side didn't get canceled. And I never have to look down at my right thumb!
You can see the LEFT one flashing along with BMW's "ambiguity indicator" on the cluster, below:
The other irritant is BMW's choice of RED for GEN and AMBER for OIL PRESS FAIL.
Even worse, the amber oil pressure light is right above the amber turn signal light.
I added a bright RED oil pressure fail light near the oil pressure gauge which, of course, BMW never installed. This indicator also has a "Press to Test" feature for checking the lamp. I had an oil pressure switch fail one time, indicating a loss of oil pressure. I immediately shut down the engine and coasted about 10 miles (downhill, of course) to a little berg where I was stranded. If I had had a gauge I would have known I still had oil pressure, and ridden home on 2 wheels instead of in the back of a pickup truck.
None of this is "Stock" of course, but personally, I don't care! I like mine better than a stock one.
And that's all that really matters.
My 77RS has a number of mods from stock. I like it better the way I have it...
O
orbitangel
Guest
Poor Cornering Slash Seven
That was a GORGEOUS RS you had! And I'm sure you made the right move, if it suits YOU!
Sure, you will never make a clunky, old RS especially nimble, HOWEVER...
It would have been a hell of a lot quicker in handling if you had ditched the stock K112/RB2 tire package in favor of some "modern" tires such as Bridgestone's BT45 Battlax skins.
Doing that, of course, won't do anything for other handling ills (such as rear-end jacking) but the machine will roll into and out of sharp turns without the rider (you) having to be King Kong.
Had this 77 RS for almost 8 years.
I got tired of melting behind the RS fairing in the summer and the poor cornering characteristics and sold this... upgraded to a 95 R100R. Best move I have made in a long time.
That was a GORGEOUS RS you had! And I'm sure you made the right move, if it suits YOU!
Sure, you will never make a clunky, old RS especially nimble, HOWEVER...
It would have been a hell of a lot quicker in handling if you had ditched the stock K112/RB2 tire package in favor of some "modern" tires such as Bridgestone's BT45 Battlax skins.
Doing that, of course, won't do anything for other handling ills (such as rear-end jacking) but the machine will roll into and out of sharp turns without the rider (you) having to be King Kong.
This is from a posting that I made to the AirList in June of 2005. I think that the instruments were obtained earlier that year (2005). The information on the clock and voltmeter is below -
VDO Cockpit instrument no. 370-152 clock and
332-103 voltmeter. The discounted price for both was $115.
Shipping added about another $10.
These instruments were purchased from Lauderdale Speedometer
www.lspeedo.com
phone 1-800-951-5123 or 954-522-4885.
I did a bit of minor fiddling with connectors to clean things up
and ensure that the light would work. Basically everything used
spade connectors. I just clipped off the old light and crimped
on a new female spade. I also made a "Y" female spade connector
for the ground connectors.
These instruments use a threaded piece to secure the device to
the cockpit rather than the bracket as was on the old clock/VM.
I think that the threaded piece is more secure.
L
Littleleroy38
Guest
Running the OEM Boge shocks couldn't have helped either.
