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Thread: Handlebar risers for '77 R100RS

  1. #1
    CMCRAE132066
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    Handlebar risers for '77 R100RS

    my bike is in storage right now so can't really have a great look at how I might raise the bar height 2 or 3 inches. Any suggestions?

    thanks

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    I just did an advanced search using the word "barbacks" (no quotes) and forced the search to look only in the Airheads forum. I got quite a few hits...might want to try that and see what's been discussed previously.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
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    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    COMMANDO74
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    Good question regarding the barbacks. I am looking for a pair myself. I haven't found anything yet, so I will be curious if you find something..

  4. #4

    Handlebar Risers

    A relatively easy way to just raise the bars is to find a set of lower handlebar clamps and add them to the existing ones. This does require you to find and install longer studs, but it works quite well. It will render your steering damper useless, though, just like all bar-back arrangements. If you want to pull them back, Bob's BMW has a kit for your bike. The last I knew, A&S had the bar-backs Luftmeister used to sell. If your bike has a handlebar master cylinder, you'll need a longer brake hose.

  5. #5
    Registered User PeoriaMac's Avatar
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    Mac
    1986 R80RT, 2005 R1200GS
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  6. #6
    COMMANDO74
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    Great! Thanks for the info!!!!

  7. #7
    535IS
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostboy View Post
    A relatively easy way to just raise the bars is to find a set of lower handlebar clamps and add them to the existing ones. This does require you to find and install longer studs, but it works quite well. It will render your steering damper useless, though, just like all bar-back arrangements.
    Not useless; just not easily adjustable. Set it for whatever you want and remove the knob.
    If your bike has a handlebar master cylinder, you'll need a longer brake hose.
    Not unless someone has converted it. The '77 MC was under the tank. Nonetheless, getting all the cables to fit without kinking around something like the instrument pod will be a minor PITA.

    The bar-backs on ebay might be OK, but this depends on whether you're looking for farther back (those are) or farther up (they aren't, at least by much). The one I have is probably another inch setback/up and is infinitely adjustable in a radius around the original bars' center, so they are both higher and closer.

    Then, there's the fairing to consider. It's pretty much guaranteed the bars won't clear it at full lock, so just plan on that.

    Good luck with whatever you decide.

  8. #8
    When I purchased my 77RS it came with bar backs. The photo shows the bars with the bar backs. After I completed the re-do of the bike I found that I preferred the handlebars in the stock position. I've also seen alternate bars used that gave a different feel to the bike. A while back Re-Psycle BMW had an RS with some R65LS handlebars. I considered using some alternate bars before settling on the stock set-up. I've also found that a slight adjustment (rotational) to the bars can make a lot of difference in the comfort level in riding.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Had this 77 RS for almost 8 years.

    When I bought it it had bar backs and no steering dampner. On the first ride my hands were pinched on the clutch and brake levers when making sharp turns on the bike. The BB's were not like the ones above and did not allow use of the knob. I took them off and never looked back.

    Others have used K75s bars with some sucess. And still others have to face the fact the ol back is not what it used to be. May just be time for a different ride

    I loved the bar postion. Sporty and good wind buffeting position for me. Plus the bike looked odd without the dash pad. I enjoyed the clean unclutterd view it provided.


    I got tired of melting behind the RS fairing in the summer and the poor cornering characteristics and sold this... upgraded to a 95 R100R. Best move I have made in a long time.
    Last edited by 114298; 01-24-2009 at 02:05 PM. Reason: add pics

  10. #10
    7bokide7
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    My 77RS came with K75s bars installed. There is no issue with clearing the fairing and it gets me up just enough to get my head above the wind blast - I have the stock low windscreen and I'm around 6' tall.

  11. #11
    Huckleberry, Gilera &Toad kstoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 114298 View Post
    ... I loved the bar postion. Sporty and good wind buffeting position for me. Plus the bike looked odd without the dash pad. I enjoyed the clean unclutterd view it provided.
    Ditto, +1
    I finally got my RS last year and thought that I would have to resort to K75S bars but to tell you the truth I find it to be the perfect bike for me the way that it is. It takes some discipline to remember NOT to lean on the handlebars but if I stay balanced I find this a better tourer than my old RT.

    Quote Originally Posted by 114298 View Post
    ... I got tired of melting behind the RS fairing in the summer ...
    Wow, I found out that this wonderful design is the best in the world for blocking the wind even when you would really like a little wind! But then, that is not much of a problem, I live in Wisconsin.

    Quote Originally Posted by 114298 View Post
    ...and the poor cornering characteristics ...

    was something broken? I have never been on a better handling motorcycle...
    1980 R100T (Gilera), 1982 R100RT (Toad), 1975 R60/6 (cern?ícalo)
    Adventures at the Cave

  12. #12
    Rally Rat
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    Quote Originally Posted by kstoo View Post
    was something broken? I have never been on a better handling motorcycle...
    I think the mono-shock is supposed to be a big improvement.

    I have not ridden a mono-shock airhead yet.

  13. #13
    orbitangel
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    Question Dash Panel Fuses?

    Quote Originally Posted by robsmoto View Post
    After I completed the re-do of the bike I found that I preferred the handlebars in the stock position. I've also found that a slight adjustment (rotational) to the bars can make a lot of difference in the comfort level in riding.
    For years, I've heard folks bitch and moan about the handlebars and riding position of the stock R100RS. I never understood it. I must be the "one in a thousand" for whom the bike just happens to be a perfect fit. As you have, I have found that having the bars (and levers) correctly positioned is a biggie.

    I noticed that you have what appear to be two fuse holders on your dash panel, one on either side.

    Is that, in fact, what I am seeing there? Did you (or the PO) get your fill of dealing with a blown fuse down inside the headlight bucket (at night?)

    I got my fill of that, thirty years ago, just recently got around to fixing it.
    I ditched those two fuses and installed two Klixon aviation-type miniature circuit breakers.
    If either one pops I can see it and if is just a transient (not an actual short circuit) I can reset it. They just BARELY fit in that location on the panel but they do fit.

    No mo fuze bluez fo me!

    I also ditched the voltmeter and clock, although I will later add an "improved" voltage monitoring system. I don't NEED a clock - I always wear a watch.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by orbitangel View Post
    ...I noticed that you have what appear to be two fuse holders on your dash panel, one on either side.

    Is that, in fact, what I am seeing there? Did you (or the PO) get your fill of dealing with a blown fuse down inside the headlight bucket (at night?)
    The bike came with in-dash fuse holders. I didn't care for them, but I did want more accessable fuses of the blade-type. I obtained some water-proof blade-type fuse holders and located them beneath the dash. The old fuse holes were plugged. I also replaced the original clock and voltmeter with some VDO units from a marine supply outfit.




  15. #15
    orbitangel
    Guest

    Cool Bells & Whistles (er, LIGHTS, that is...)

    Quote Originally Posted by robsmoto View Post
    The bike came with in-dash fuse holders. I didn't care for them, but I did want more accessable fuses of the blade-type. I obtained some water-proof blade-type fuse holders and located them beneath the dash. The old fuse holes were plugged. I also replaced the original clock and voltmeter with some VDO units from a marine supply outfit.



    Aside from the fact that someone used what look like Radio Shack fuse holders, it looks as though the job was "tastefully" done. I do think it looks better now (without them.)
    And those VDO gauges look right at home there. Having said that, you probably wouldn't care for my other dash alterations.

    To wit: I always found a couple of things a bit irritating about the way BMW did the indicator lights. First, if you get busy in traffic and forget to cancel a turn signal, the first thing you see is the flashing amber light at the bottom of the instrument cluster. Trouble is, by then you have probably forgotten whether is is the left or right signals you left on.

    You can't tell by looking at the cluster! This (psychomotor) effect may be aggravated by the thumb control logic (UP for LEFT and DOWN for RIGHT.)

    I added LEFT and RIGHT repeater lamps, wired to the front turn signals.
    I can see them even in fairly bright sunlight (but they're not blinding at night) and I can tell IMMEDIATELY which side didn't get canceled. And I never have to look down at my right thumb!

    You can see the LEFT one flashing along with BMW's "ambiguity indicator" on the cluster, below:



    The other irritant is BMW's choice of RED for GEN and AMBER for OIL PRESS FAIL.
    Even worse, the amber oil pressure light is right above the amber turn signal light.

    I added a bright RED oil pressure fail light near the oil pressure gauge which, of course, BMW never installed. This indicator also has a "Press to Test" feature for checking the lamp. I had an oil pressure switch fail one time, indicating a loss of oil pressure. I immediately shut down the engine and coasted about 10 miles (downhill, of course) to a little berg where I was stranded. If I had had a gauge I would have known I still had oil pressure, and ridden home on 2 wheels instead of in the back of a pickup truck.

    None of this is "Stock" of course, but personally, I don't care! I like mine better than a stock one.

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