• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Dumb Bing Question

BreadMan

New member
I'm pulling the carbs off of my R60/5 for a rebuild, which probably isn't a good idea, but I'm not even smart enough to figure out how to get the throttle cable disengaged.

I loosened the nut at #1, and even though section #2 moves a little, I can't get it to move alot, but I have not applied lots of pressure yet. I wanted to make sure I'm doing the right thing.

402749231_ciHXG-M.jpg
 
They should be just like my /2 carbs. #2 has to turn completely off and separate from the body. #2 turns indepedent of #1. #1 is just a cap. You can then pull the entire guts out...the slide will come up and out. When you pull them apart, you'll need to compress a spring and turn the cable a slight amount one direction or the other so the tang will go through a slot. Then you can pull out the cable.

As for #2, be sure it turns somewhat freely. It may be tight to start with...there's a rubber o-ring that is the seal which may have deteriorated. Once loosened, it should come free. Hopefully it's not seized...the carb body is not made of very strong metal. Use some silicone on the o-ring (probably a new one) on reinstall.
 
They should be just like my /2 carbs. #2 has to turn completely off and separate from the body. #2 turns indepedent of #1. #1 is just a cap. You can then pull the entire guts out...the slide will come up and out. When you pull them apart, you'll need to compress a spring and turn the cable a slight amount one direction or the other so the tang will go through a slot. Then you can pull out the cable.

As for #2, be sure it turns somewhat freely. It may be tight to start with...there's a rubber o-ring that is the seal which may have deteriorated. Once loosened, it should come free. Hopefully it's not seized...the carb body is not made of very strong metal. Use some silicone on the o-ring (probably a new one) on reinstall.

So, I just need to put some strength into it and it will unscrew?

OK, I can do that!
 
So, I just need to put some strength into it and it will unscrew?

Just go slow...if it doesn't loosen up within 1/2 of a turn to no more than a full turn, something's wrong. Maybe some penetranting oil/lubricant would help...
 
If your R60/5 has a side bowl carb as depicted in your illustration, that is not the correct carb for the bike. However, the illustrated depiction of the carb top is identical. It is possible that your top ring is damaged which would make it run lean and have an un-stable idle. That might account for your difficulty in removing the retainer ring. (the part that holds the top onto the carb body) Maybe cross-threaded? You should be able to loosen the retainer with minimal finger effort. A days worth of soaking with penetrating oil is well advised.
 
Back
Top