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Thread: Dumb Bing Question

  1. #1
    Rally Rat
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    Dumb Bing Question

    I'm pulling the carbs off of my R60/5 for a rebuild, which probably isn't a good idea, but I'm not even smart enough to figure out how to get the throttle cable disengaged.

    I loosened the nut at #1, and even though section #2 moves a little, I can't get it to move alot, but I have not applied lots of pressure yet. I wanted to make sure I'm doing the right thing.


  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    They should be just like my /2 carbs. #2 has to turn completely off and separate from the body. #2 turns indepedent of #1. #1 is just a cap. You can then pull the entire guts out...the slide will come up and out. When you pull them apart, you'll need to compress a spring and turn the cable a slight amount one direction or the other so the tang will go through a slot. Then you can pull out the cable.

    As for #2, be sure it turns somewhat freely. It may be tight to start with...there's a rubber o-ring that is the seal which may have deteriorated. Once loosened, it should come free. Hopefully it's not seized...the carb body is not made of very strong metal. Use some silicone on the o-ring (probably a new one) on reinstall.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Rally Rat
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    They should be just like my /2 carbs. #2 has to turn completely off and separate from the body. #2 turns indepedent of #1. #1 is just a cap. You can then pull the entire guts out...the slide will come up and out. When you pull them apart, you'll need to compress a spring and turn the cable a slight amount one direction or the other so the tang will go through a slot. Then you can pull out the cable.

    As for #2, be sure it turns somewhat freely. It may be tight to start with...there's a rubber o-ring that is the seal which may have deteriorated. Once loosened, it should come free. Hopefully it's not seized...the carb body is not made of very strong metal. Use some silicone on the o-ring (probably a new one) on reinstall.
    So, I just need to put some strength into it and it will unscrew?

    OK, I can do that!

  4. #4
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BreadMan View Post
    So, I just need to put some strength into it and it will unscrew?
    Just go slow...if it doesn't loosen up within 1/2 of a turn to no more than a full turn, something's wrong. Maybe some penetranting oil/lubricant would help...
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  5. #5
    James.A
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    If your R60/5 has a side bowl carb as depicted in your illustration, that is not the correct carb for the bike. However, the illustrated depiction of the carb top is identical. It is possible that your top ring is damaged which would make it run lean and have an un-stable idle. That might account for your difficulty in removing the retainer ring. (the part that holds the top onto the carb body) Maybe cross-threaded? You should be able to loosen the retainer with minimal finger effort. A days worth of soaking with penetrating oil is well advised.

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