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Repacking and/or Changing Head Bearings

M

mbellantone

AirandOil In NJ
Hey boys and girls;

1984 R80RT purchased in May.

Turns out that when not used/maintained the bearing grease in the head tube turns to glue! I can barely move the bars.... Not fun. The bike only has 19k miles on it, (or so advertised but I see no reason to disagree), but the bearings need re-greasing/replacing.

I know head bearings have been addressed in other threads but my question is a little more specific:

When cleaning/repacking ONLY does the fairing/dash removal process remain the same as if you're replacing the bearings and races? (total removal of the fairing and dash.)

Thanks in advance.

M
 
yes. you need full access to the bearings and inner race surfaces. only thing you don't do for the greasing/cleaning that you do for the replacing is teh actual removal of the bearing race. well, that, and you won't be purchasing new bearings. however, once you get in that deep, be sure you check the bearing/race surfaces, and be sure you have fully smooth operation, with no pitting, galling, etc.
 
Thanks Bikerfish... any other helpful hints you can impart on the actual fairing removal? Seems pretty intimidating and kind of makes me wish I had fell in love with a Toaster as opposed to the fully garnished RT.

Being that I'll be in that deep should I just get the bearings/races and get the puller for the $50? If so, know anyplace I can rent the puller?
 
By the book

you are supposed to remove fairing etc.
I have done 2 RT's, 1 RS without doing so.
It is not technically necessary to remove fairing.
With puller I bought (but have not needed to use yet) bearing change could also be so done.
I figure the little extra contortion to get in there with fairing in place is less hassle than dismount-remount.
 
Ill agree, you can do it without removing the full fairing, leaving the upper in place
at least my experience with 3 full fairing BMW's pre 1988
you will have to remove the engine cowl ( the lovuer part in front of the engine, the upper that goes around the forks, and oc course the speedo, handle bars pad, gas tank
dont forget to disconnect the battery as first step.
make sure you use the correct greese when putting it all back together
and with your handlebars flooping around, make sure you dont loose any brake fluid onto painted surfaces

also, wiht that few miles I would be surprised that you would need new bearings, but you will know when you can see them, how they clean up and how they feel
 
you might try an auto parts store- many of them will loan various tools.
As jforgo said- if you can get full access to the area around the triple trees (upper & lower) without removing fairing & other bits, then fairing can stay on. handlebars have to be removed, but they can just flop out of the way once risers are disconnected.
how many miles on the bike? how long has it been sitting? that might give you a clue on need/value to replace. maybe have bearings available, and do if necessary?
 
Hey Bikerfish... bike as "19,450" I put that in quotes because although the bike is in beautiful shape, I doubt it's only this few miles.... An old trick I learned was to check the knurled rises in the brake pedal and personally I feel they are a little too worn for 19K.

I am the third owner, (I have the papers), and the previous owner hasn't used it that much that is why he sold it. I have two young kids and two other bikes so it's been sitting in my garage waiting for my attention since may.

when I pulled the bike off the shipping crate, (I'm in NJ it came from AL) I almost killed myself because I couldn't steer the bike. With normal pressure it would take about, literally, 5 seconds to go from lock to lock.

Anyway, I'm keeping the bike for the long haul so it's all moot...
 
When I did mine I left the fairing on. I ran some lag hooks into the garage rafters and used light rope to tie the handlebars and other goodies in suspension. Kept stuff from flopping around. Other than that, as far as what to remove and what stays, the other posters have it nailed.

Please keep us posted on your progress.

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=28550

Ride Safely,
BrickRider

p.s. Yeah, guys, I'm curious to know if this is gonna be another oversize stem deal. :whistle
 
The idea that the grease has somehow stiffened up and is impeding your bars is an interesting one...my bet is that a PO over-tightened the bearings to get around some notchiness.

Considering how much work goes into simply re-greasing the bearings, do yourself a favor and have a new set on hand, ready to go if the old ones are the least bit suspect.
 
When I bought my 83 R80RT, I had the same problem. I squrited WD40 into the bearings and the forks freed up. I had no notching that could be felt and it has never indicated any problems 30k+miles. This is what worked for me. Others will of course disagree with me, so be it. As to the removal of the fairing on the airhead R bike like mine, I think I would rather have a root canal than take it off and put it back on. It is quite a chore.
Good luck with yours,

Don Mitchell
donmitt@sbcglobal.net
 
When purchased my 82 R65LS with only 14K original miles also had severely glued-up, hardened grease in the steering head bearings. I expected the worst, but upon taking it apart, thorough degreasing and inspection, the bearings and races were perfect. Be sure to pack in a good amount of grease on all the rollers and tighten it all back up just enough so that you still have easy side to side motion of the bars.
 
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