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I Was Feeling Pretty Good...brake Light Short 85 K100rs

C

Carguz

Guest
The bike would die, lights would dim and I read a post about cleaning the ignition switch. I followed the post and cleaned the switch and everything seemed to be working fine.

Then the brakes lights (front and rear) started turning on the battery charging light, dimming the guages and worse shorting the fuse on the ignition and rad circuit.

It's driving me crazy. I took the tank off cleaned all connectors with silicone and I'm still having the problem. I suspect it's the ignition switch. Any ideas?

PS - I did get the clutch cable on. (easier if you loosen the tank and pry it up.)

Thanks.
 
Carguz said:
The bike would die, lights would dim and I read a post about cleaning the ignition switch. I followed the post and cleaned the switch and everything seemed to be working fine.

Then the brakes lights (front and rear) started turning on the battery charging light, dimming the guages and worse shorting the fuse on the ignition and rad circuit.

It's driving me crazy. I took the tank off cleaned all connectors with silicone and I'm still having the problem. I suspect it's the ignition switch. Any ideas?

PS - I did get the clutch cable on. (easier if you loosen the tank and pry it up.)

Thanks.
Click to expand...
The front brake lights shouldn't be illuminating unless the ABS is switched off.
robert
 
aaaaaa said:
The front brake lights shouldn't be illuminating unless the ABS is switched off.
robert
Click to expand...

It's an '85 - no ABS.

CarGuz.. need more information. When you say the brake lights - can we assume you mean front and rear brake SWITCH?

And exactly what fuses are blowing (number would be good..) or what circuits are indicated on the fuse box cover?

It sounds as if you have a short someplace in the brake light wiring. Does the brake light turn ON when you use the front and rear switch (lever and pedal)?

The bike is 24 years old now - and the wiring harnesses have been known to be troublesome (lots of wiring running through too small an opening is a common problem with them.) It's possible there is an internal short in the harness, which can be an absolute bear to track down (I've rebuilt/built K100 harnesses - I don't recommend it if you want to keep your sanity.)

We need more information to help you.

BTW - what's your actual name?
 
If this is an intermittent short and blows a fuse, you can wire a couple of male spade lugs to a turnsignal bulb and plug it in place of the fuse. Then when you squeeze, wiggle, or push the wiring harness and the bulb lights, that is where you need to unwrap the harness, etc. and can find and fix the short.
 
Could be.....

Just a thought. I have a 15 year old K1100rs that would cough hard, and finally started dying at speed or whenever. :banghead It turned out to be the wires coming out of the Ignition Switch body. These wires take alot of punishment, as they flex with the steering. I found a wire broken that would touch and then open, and others that were getting the same way. Is it possible that you have one of these wires shorting to ground, or to another wire near by? I think you can see the area looking in from the left side, fork to the right. IF you decide to look closer, the switch CAN be removed from the lock housing insitu, by loosening a set screw on the right side of the lock. The screw will be covered with a spot of paint, red on my bike. Then the switch and wires can be fished out for a better look. FWIW, when I decided to go the replacement route, I took apart the old switch, and the actual contacts inside were so burned, I needed replacing anyhow. Good luck KC
 
KCKBMOA said:
Just a thought. I have a 15 year old K1100rs that would cough hard, and finally started dying at speed or whenever. :banghead It turned out to be the wires coming out of the Ignition Switch body. These wires take alot of punishment, as they flex with the steering. I found a wire broken that would touch and then open, and others that were getting the same way. Is it possible that you have one of these wires shorting to ground, or to another wire near by? I think you can see the area looking in from the left side, fork to the right. IF you decide to look closer, the switch CAN be removed from the lock housing insitu, by loosening a set screw on the right side of the lock. The screw will be covered with a spot of paint, red on my bike. Then the switch and wires can be fished out for a better look. FWIW, when I decided to go the replacement route, I took apart the old switch, and the actual contacts inside were so burned, I needed replacing anyhow. Good luck KC
Click to expand...

For more info on cleaning your ignition switch: http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/IgnitionSwitch/index.html - which assumes you have removed it already..
 
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