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auxiliary light recommendations

C

criminaldesign

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Hi All, I have an '88 R100RS. I'm looking into purchasing some additional lighting as my night riding could be a bit brighter and cover more area (time for the deer to start jumping).

I checked out the PIAA, but I'm not really in a position to drop too much cash on lighting but I don't want to be riding with clear xmas lights either. What's anyones thoughts on these or anything comparable/affordable? Thanks, H
 
Here you go:)

A couple ideas! First, you better give your charging system some thought, as to how much draw it can take and still keep the battery fresh. A good "voltmeter" on the dash will always keep you informed as you ride. Its one of my best features I ever added to mine, the voltmeter:). R100/7 here and I also added the Omega alternator system at 400+ watts output vs. the standard BMW 280w. Just some thought and your stock alternator WILL drive some lights, but know the stock bike has limits here.
Lights: I've had the PIAA's and YES, they are pricey and good stuff. BUT, you can find replica's, nearly exact look a likes at many many auto parts stores and I did this for my last KLT. For 45$, my Kragen Auto Parts had the exact same lookalike PIAA's, with 35w, H4 bulbs, easy to replace when needed. BOY what a deal and I used them for 6 years without fail:). Whatever light you find, be sure it has a common bulb found nearly anywhere, because I've seen many lights with bulbs hard to get! I think the PIAA's have a 55w bulb, but the above mentioned deal I found with the 35w ones worked very well for me for years. My '95 R1100GS had the PIAA's and the only set I ever used. Very good, but I too want to save some money when I can. Happy Trails, Randy:thumb :usa
 
Have you considered switching the headlight to HID. I purchased PIAAS and HID for my 03 LT. Once I installed the HID, I realized I didn't need the PIAAS for seeing. I sold them straight away. If you want to see, go HID.

If you want to be seen, motolights on the front brake calipers are the way to go. It gives you three points of light for other motorists to see you! They give you a little more visibility but their benefit is to have other drivers see you.
 
The Aerostich catalog has some HID lights that have come down in price quite a bit.

Ditto on evaluating the charging system before adding the lights.
 
Hella FF50 Driving Lights

They are inexpensive and light up the road very well. I paid as little as $30 for my second set; I have a set on each of my motorcycles.

Although impressive to some and annoying to on-coming traffic, paying hundreds to light up the road where you won't be for another 60 seconds doesn't make a lot of sense.
 
I agree that the charging system is the first thought to consider when it comes time to add additional lighting. Having said that, HID lights are always better. HID uses 35 watts vs 55 watts for standard bulbs and offer 3 times the light intensity.

I personally would recommend upgrading your headlight to HID first. Then add auxillary lights. If you go that route, then consider the Trail Tech SCRM16 lights. I've added both to my R1100RT and am very happy with the results. But if I could only do one, the HID upgrade tothe headlight offers the best bang for the buck.

I used VVME.COM for my HID upgrade. Cheapiest price I could find with good quality, but the shipping can bring the price up. Best to order multiple light sets if you really want to save money. FWIW, I purchased a set to upgrade my LT's high beam too. Both upgrades worked very well and I sold the second ballast/bulb set to help recupe some of the money I paid on the upgrade.

If you do buy HID, 4300K is the best (brightest/whitest) color. My TT lights are 5300K though and I honestly cannot tell the difference in color. They all look bright white with just a tinge of blue. 6000K and up though you start to lose brightness.
 
I've also been told that a relay for your headlight can increase the brightness noticably. They can be had from Eastern beaver. Jim also sells accesory outlets as well as other electical wirring. Very neat installations and quick srvice, shipping. Be careful you don't use too much power on your airhead. You may need to upgade your charging system otherwise.:usa :bikes
 
I've also been told that a relay for your headlight can increase the brightness noticably.

A relay to increase brightness? Thats news to me. I use a relay to handle the current that a normal switch can't.

If you want bright, you want as few voltage drops across contacts as possible and as little voltage drop (*) in your wiring which is why you use multi-stranded wire and the correct gauge.

(*) based on memory, a 0.5 volt drop from your source to the load in a 14V system is what is accepted, and 1V drop in a 28V system, at least in aircraft.
 
I am currently riding a k75RTP and an R1150R. Both have 700 watt alternators. I have Motolights which I run "full time" as conspicuity lights in the daytime, and as low-beam lights at night. I have 55 watt H3 driving lights (PIAA 510 on the K75, Pilot brand on the R1150R) which run with high beam at night.

On my F650 with its puny 400 watt alternator I don't have auxiliary lights. If I do put them on this bike they will be HID because of the electron efficiency vs light output. I really like the concept of the new self-contained (integral ballast) PIAA HID lights. But the $$$ is a bit off-putting. Other HID stuff is available at lower prices.

If I was trying to outfit an Airhead with lights, and still wanted heated clothing, etc. I'm afraid HID would be the way I would go - even the $$$ considered.

A lot depends on how you ride. Lots of traffic, stop & go, and short trips are a lot different than start and ride tank-to-tank, as far as the alternator keeping up is concerned.
 
Once you had settled the charging issue, I had just found PIAA type knock off at Wally world w/ 55 watt bulbs drawing about 9 amps for the low low price of about $15.00. you will need to buy a 30A bosh type relay seperatly.
 
Do the math on your charging system before you decide. Here are the calcs I ran for my airhead (same as yours):

Ignition - 100W (estimate/guess?)
Headlight - 55W (low beam) / 100W (my upgraded high beam - normal is 60W high)
Taillight - 1W (estimated - I have LED tail/brake/license light)
Handlebar heaters - 36W (I have Polly snowmobile handlebar heaters)
Misc electronics - 24W (conservative estimate of 2A for MP3, Radar, GPS, mixer, etc)

Total - 216W (low beam) / 261W (w/ my upgraded high beam)
Max of alternator - 280W

With my 100W high beam, I wasn't concerned with needing additional light with the high beam (it's plenty bright). I wanted to supplement my low beam to create a larger viewable area at night (especially close to the road). With my high beam on, I am basically out of capacity before adding any lights, anyway.

So, if I used it only with low beam a single 55W driving light would push me to the edge, and I would be losing power at much less than optimal alternator output. A single 35W driving light would still give a small reserve.

I opted to go with a pair of 55W each Hella FF50's along with a 700W alternator that has an R1150R wrapped around it. I run the FF50's all the time and it really lights up the road with 165W on low beam and the driving lights are mounted fairly high up and aimed so as not to annoy oncoming traffic.
 
I run Hella's on my RT and they really light up the road. Run them in the daytime as well.

Never had an on coming car flash their brights.

Left is on the yellow line. Right is aimed in the ditch to catch critter eyes.
 
Can't have enought lights

SafetyLighting.jpg
 
I see.
So; if all were switched on at the same time, what would happen?
Engine stop dead? Battery meltdown? Cessation of forward motion?

Interesting thing to do to a scooter.

Probably have to go to a "c" rated front tire.:scratch
 
A relay to increase brightness? Thats news to me.


The idea is to power the lights with their own fat gauge harness, straight off the battery. A heavy duty relay is then used to switch the harness, with the relay powered by the original light circuit and handle bar switch.

I've done this with my last two bikes, using both a home grown set-up and the aforementioned Eastern Beaver (which is a well made plug & play product).

The standard 55/60 watt bulb will burn a bit brighter, and you can run a bigger wattage (like an 80/100) without fear of melting down the handlebar switch.

It works.
 
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