Newly Acquired 87 K75S

I'm pysched - just picked up a nice condition 87 K75S

I see there are two shop manuals - one by Clymer and Haynes - which one is more for "dummies" I'm pretty good at most stuff but when it comes to adjusting valves and lubing clutch spines, would want the best instruction possible.

Also, system case key is MIA and is locked on bike - any suggestions on how to get a key or pick the lock or ????

Where is engine serial number stamped on engine?

Looking foward to working on this one. It's in good shape but needs some TLC - fluids changes, air in tires, inspect spark plugs, air filter, fresh brake fluid, the usual. In no big hurry to get on the road - have another bike and want to take my time to get it right.

The handgrips are really funky - like foam material - was this the stock handgrip back in the day?

Handlebar risers - besides the kit, it looks like I'll nee to extend my disk brake line? Where is best place to buy? Some said beemerboneyard and A&S Cycles. Your suggestions appreciated.

What is a good product to rub out paint and then wax? There are some fuel stains on the tank that the PO neglected to wipe off.

If I sound excited, I am!!! This will be a nice step up for longer riding from my F650GS.

Well an 87 owner and no replies yet. I don't have a;; the answers but will try on some:
On the manual I had a Haynes and thought it was "OK", no raving fan of it. The other might be better or worse.

Are the side cases the kind with the small rectangular door covering the key hole, or the one with just the big silver barrel the key goes in (nothing covering the key hole?)

I thought I saw the engine serial number on the black (lower) part, over near where the oil site gauge is, you might neeed to remove the lower fairing to see it, and I am NOT positive as I never needed to know the engine serial number.

Yeah the original grips are foam. I got heated grips on the one I had.

One the paint I'd rub out with DuPont #7 polish followed by your favorite wax. I am not picky about such things, IMHO the cheap stuff is the same as the expensive. "Big Deal", wax and polish, woo hoo......

Gilly

Gilly - thanks for your reply . . . side cases have that small "door" that flips up. Was thinking of calling a luggage shop for suggestions - someone in the group suggested a locksmith - I'm assuming they're keyed alike and I got the port side case off so maybe a locksmith can figure it out and make a key?

Where can I get a heated grips kit? I"ll look for the engine serial #

Beemer boneyard sells a tune up kit for a reasonable price - oil filter, air filter, fuel filter & new plugs - would you go this route or - the only item I'm not sure about replacing is the air filter and haven't looked yet - I put a K&N on m F650GS and like it a lot - read a post where this air filter on the K75 decreased mileage - seems strange. . .

When I test rode it (it has 30k on the odometer which I believe to be true) the shifting was good both up & down. Thinking I'll lube the splines and not tackle the clutch splines just yet - sound okay?

Is it better to run it out of gas and store it empty for the winter or run some fuel injector cleaner through the tank and leave it full with Stabil over the winter?

This is my first shaft drive bike - it looks like that besides lubing the rear splines that the shaft has it's own oil reservoir which also needs changing - will have to read what it says in the owners manual.

The handlebars are positioned that when I ride it I feel like I'm on a crotch rocket -can I use the same handlebars with the riser kit A&S Cycles sells or do you recommend another route? I'd like the bars higher and further back with the option of leaning forward when I want to - which I sometimes do on my F650 when running down the highway.

Thank You!

kentuvman said:

Gilly - thanks for your reply . . . side cases have that small "door" that flips up. Was thinking of calling a luggage shop for suggestions - someone in the group suggested a locksmith - I'm assuming they're keyed alike and I got the port side case off so maybe a locksmith can figure it out and make a key?

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In that case - it's flat key locks (hopefully both bags are the same). Open one of the latches for the case itself, look along the side of the latch (the part that's hidden when the latch is closed) - there will be a 2 number or 3 number code there. That's the key number. Once you get it - call Bob's BMW to see if he has any in stock. Some are harder to get than others.

Where can I get a heated grips kit? I"ll look for the engine serial #

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Ditto on the source..

Beemer boneyard sells a tune up kit for a reasonable price - oil filter, air filter, fuel filter & new plugs - would you go this route or - the only item I'm not sure about replacing is the air filter and haven't looked yet - I put a K&N on m F650GS and like it a lot - read a post where this air filter on the K75 decreased mileage - seems strange. . .

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Dunno where you read that - but I've done a lot of dyno testing of K75's - and the K&N besides letting more crap into the engine provides NO additional power. It's snake oil. Get the kit and use it.

When I test rode it (it has 30k on the odometer which I believe to be true) the shifting was good both up & down. Thinking I'll lube the splines and not tackle the clutch splines just yet - sound okay?

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It's over 22 years old now - it can both drink, smoke and legally have sex. At this point - unless you have records of a spline lube sometime in the 22 years, it's overdue. And since I'm sure it's dribbling oil out the weep hole under the clutch, it's also due for a new O ring behind the clutch basket nut. Might as well do all at the same time. Might be time to find a good independent wrench in your area and get a price on the job (it's somewhat more involved than just a spline lube..)

Is it better to run it out of gas and store it empty for the winter or run some fuel injector cleaner through the tank and leave it full with Stabil over the winter?

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It's better to simply ride it all year. If that's not possible, running it out of gas is a good way to buy a new fuel pump. An empty tank may accumulate moisture due to sweating unless it's in a heated garage. I'd suggest Stabil and fill it.

This is my first shaft drive bike - it looks like that besides lubing the rear splines that the shaft has it's own oil reservoir which also needs changing - will have to read what it says in the owners manual.

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The rear-drive needs the oil change periodically. Nothing in the shaft housing itself - that's supposed to be dry (if it isn't - you have a leaking seal.)

The handlebars are positioned that when I ride it I feel like I'm on a crotch rocket -can I use the same handlebars with the riser kit A&S Cycles sells or do you recommend another route? I'd like the bars higher and further back with the option of leaning forward when I want to - which I sometimes do on my F650 when running down the highway.

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Look into "C" bars. Move them back, out and up. Existing cables and hoses still work. Direct swap out.

Thank You!

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On the K&N airfilter for the K bikes. I tried to install a K & N on a K100 (same filter as K75). After 10 hours or so I gave up. The K & N filter does not have the groove in the bottom edge of the filter that the OEM filter has. I could never get the airbox top to pull down far enough to clip the 3 clips. Only 2 clips would clip. I called K & N and they said they had had no problems and blamed me or my air box. they did send me another, same song and dance. They did refund my money. I did find on the net similar people with the same problem.

Ralph Sims

Thanks so much!

kentuvman said:

What is a good product to rub out paint and then wax? There are some fuel stains on the tank that the PO neglected to wipe off..

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This stuff is INCREDIBLE!!!

http://www.wetpaintglaze.com/

BuddingGeezer said:

On the K&N airfilter for the K bikes. I tried to install a K & N on a K100 (same filter as K75). After 10 hours or so I gave up. The K & N filter does not have the groove in the bottom edge of the filter that the OEM filter has. I could never get the airbox top to pull down far enough to clip the 3 clips. Only 2 clips would clip. I called K & N and they said they had had no problems and blamed me or my air box. they did send me another, same song and dance. They did refund my money. I did find on the net similar people with the same problem.

Ralph Sims

Click to expand...

I have the K&N filter and it's a hard filter to clean and install. In fact, nearly impossible to re-install without wanting to curse! Learn from my mistake. Do not purchase this filter system. I do not find the performance improvement. I believe I wated my money.

Revelation or???

Appreciated the posts about finding a local wrencher - although I'm good at a lot of things like changing oil, plugs and filters and can adjust valves on my 1971 SL125 . . . am thinking it might be wise to take it to Leo's South where the bike was sold in 1987 - maybe they even have service records???

They gave me an estimate of @ $560 parts & labor for a "major service" which would include lubing the clutch splines (according to threads read, tranny needs to be dropped - that may be over my head & competence).

Maybe spend the money, get the major service done and from that point forward do the routine maintenace myself? I'm guessing a factory trained mechanic is going to be more competent than me. I'll probably have better peace of mind about the reliability on a longer trip, although this is supposedly the Maytag.

Thoughts?

Take Two

I went on Youtube and this is what I discovered . . .

Video on Spline Lube:

Part One:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muAjxC5fOJE

Part Two:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeVGmhP_KXo&feature=related

If this bike is a "Maytag" (not like new newer ones - ours broke!) I'm thinking I can change the fluids. filters plugs . . . not sure about the clutch spline lube but it shifts up & down nicely - not sure about valve adjustment but read valves usually stay w/in tolerances . . . hmm?

I have read that if the transmission downshifts easily, the clutch splines are good. Thats what I am hoping anyway.
I checked the valves at 40000 miles and #2&3 intakes were tight. I had the dealer adjust them.

91 75RT 48000 miles

roncooper said:

I have read that if the transmission downshifts easily, the clutch splines are good. Thats what I am hoping anyway.
I checked the valves at 40000 miles and #2&3 intakes were tight. I had the dealer adjust them.

91 75RT 48000 miles

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actually, the cheap test is to attempt a clutchless downshift at hiway speeds from 5th to 4th. should snick right in with just a slight throttle roll off.

btw- if you can check your valves, you have all the skills necessary to adjust them as well (as long as you have the correct tools and necessary shims).

Speed Bleeder

An ebayer sells a speed bleeder for the K75 for $7 + shipping. Is this a useful item as I have to bleed the brakes and install new DOT 4 brake fluid.

bikerfish1100 said:

actually, the cheap test is to attempt a clutchless downshift at hiway speeds from 5th to 4th. should snick right in with just a slight throttle roll off.

btw- if you can check your valves, you have all the skills necessary to adjust them as well (as long as you have the correct tools and necessary shims).

Click to expand...

How would this tell if the clutch spline needed lubing?

The reason it is hard to downshift the bike with dry clutch splines is because the clutch is not fully disengaging. By down shifting with out using the clutch will not tell you if the clutch is binding on the shaft or not, it certainly isn't disengaging.

Ralph Sims

Doing ANY shifting without the clutch is hard on these transmissions and is NOT advised. They will tolerate it for a while but, it will lead to expensive transmission problems.

kentuvman said:

An ebayer sells a speed bleeder for the K75 for $7 + shipping. Is this a useful item as I have to bleed the brakes and install new DOT 4 brake fluid.

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yes.

kentuvman said:

An ebayer sells a speed bleeder for the K75 for $7 + shipping. Is this a useful item as I have to bleed the brakes and install new DOT 4 brake fluid.

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I don't think they are all that useful for a motorcycle, since air rises pretty much straight up (and pretty easily, at that).

I do use a similar product from Earlshttp://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/Solo-Bleed.asp on my 4 wheeled vehicles, though, and would not be without them. They are pretty reasonable from Summit. The reason I use Earls instead of Speedbleeders is that the check valve design obviates the need for sealant around the threads, which gets dodgy with age and use.

different K&N filter

Gil said:

I have the K&N filter and it's a hard filter to clean and install. In fact, nearly impossible to re-install without wanting to curse! Learn from my mistake. Do not purchase this filter system. I do not find the performance improvement. I believe I wated my money.

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You got the wrong filter! I've had this K&N on my 87S since 1988. It cleans air down
to the molecular level, (only allows in pure oxygen) increasing HP by 500%. I can
do wheels in 5th and outrun F16's (until they lift off) Cleaning is a snap. I also get
incredible mpg and can run on leftover french fry oil. Unfortunately, it is only available
to totally cool owners, and if you were cool you'd have one, but you don't, so you're not.

35634 said:

You got the wrong filter! I've had this K&N on my 87S since 1988. It cleans air down
to the molecular level, (only allows in pure oxygen) increasing HP by 500%. I can
do wheels in 5th and outrun F16's (until they lift off) Cleaning is a snap. I also get
incredible mpg and can run on leftover french fry oil. Unfortunately, it is only available
to totally cool owners, and if you were cool you'd have one, but you don't, so you're not.

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FOUL! FOUL! FOUL!
I beg to differ! I am cool...at least my wife thinks so. The filter does the job of keeping dirt out and nothing but clean air in. Perhaps my bike is ultra cool and super well enginnerd. A true Mobday/Tuesday production. Such a good bike that a K&N filter is unable to improve on perfection. Yup...that must be it!
And the proper slang term of cool coined by the cool music era of smooth, elegant and relaxing music of the late 60's all teh way to thye mid 80's. That sure sounds like K75 to me. Cool.
Peace out!

Gil said:

FOUL! FOUL! FOUL!

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In 35634's case it should be: FOWL! FOWL! FOWL! to be totally accurate.