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Thread: aux panel removal help

  1. #1
    Grammarian no, Rider yes ISAMEMON's Avatar
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    aux panel removal help

    85 R-80 RT

    need to remove the aux panel on a RT ( the panel that holds the volt and clock) to replace the rubber gasket below the windhield

    step one ,remove windsheild, ok, no problem , done

    Both the haynes and clymer manuals say "take to a dealer" as the rivets can be a hassle ( to remove the panel)

    thing is the one I am working on is not rivets

    from the outside they are flat head screws, Black and very flat. but from inside they are ROUND threaded washer/nuts that just spin ( I can see the threads )

    I can not find a way to hold the "washer/nuts" from turning. ther is not enough meat for needle nose plyers or needle nose vice grips

    so whats the trick ????

    OR has someone changed these out in early years wtih something non BMW

    looks like Im in for a long day for what should be a simple job

  2. #2
    shire2000
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    Yes, someone has replaced the rivets with small nuts and bolts. I have done the same thing on mine. It is just so much easier than those rivets to fix. I use a small box end wrench that I can slide in to hold the nuts. The one I use came in a set of "ignition" wrenches from Sears. Get it on by feel as I cannot see in there when I try to get my big fist inside. It is slow and tedious, but worth it in the long run. And remember when you put it back together to use lock washers and don't over tighten as the plastic and fiberglass will crack.

    It helps to have all lights removed from fairing as you can then reach in from headlight area or behind as required, and you get a couple more holes to look through to try a view what you are doing.

    The bolts, nuts and washers I use are black plastic. You should be able to pick them up at Home Depot. I think the last set I bought cost a grand total of $6.00 for all that are required with a couple of extras, for just in case.


  3. #3
    Grammarian no, Rider yes ISAMEMON's Avatar
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    I wish it was that simple. these really are flat, round washers that are threaded
    but when they do comeo out,they will be replaced with real nuts

  4. #4
    Registered User 88bmwjeff's Avatar
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    A while back, I came across a great how to article on crushing the BMW rivits by Ted Witting. While I can't find the webpage anymore, I do have a PDF copy. It's not that hard, and he had an inexpensive way using bolts and washers to crush the rivets. I used this method when I replaced my dash and rubber gasket on my 88 R100 RT. It wasn't that difficult.

    Post here and shoot me an email, then I can email the PDF to you.
    Jeff in W.C.
    1988 R100 RT (the other woman)
    "I got my motorcycle jacket but I'm walking all the time." Joe Strummer

  5. #5
    Registered User Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isamemon View Post
    85 R-80 RT

    need to remove the aux panel on a RT ( the panel that holds the volt and clock) to replace the rubber gasket below the windhield

    step one ,remove windsheild, ok, no problem , done

    Both the haynes and clymer manuals say "take to a dealer" as the rivets can be a hassle ( to remove the panel)

    thing is the one I am working on is not rivets

    from the outside they are flat head screws, Black and very flat. but from inside they are ROUND threaded washer/nuts that just spin ( I can see the threads )

    I can not find a way to hold the "washer/nuts" from turning. ther is not enough meat for needle nose plyers or needle nose vice grips

    so whats the trick ????

    OR has someone changed these out in early years wtih something non BMW

    looks like Im in for a long day for what should be a simple job
    I feel your pain as I just completed a similar job of replacing all the windshield hardware and gasket on my R100RT. I did have the original rivets however, which came off nicely with some delicate use of a small pair of sidecutters. On shire2000's advice, I set out to find some suitable plastic nuts and bolts, but instead ended up using some stainless cap screws, nuts and a flat and lock washer. They were a " metric 6" diameter which is just slightly smaller than 1/4" as I recall. I had to stand on my head while doing some other contortions to get them all installed and I remember thinking that the job may have been a little easier had I removed the gas tank but I never tried that. In your situation, removing those threaded washers seems quite daunting. There is precious little room to get behind that dash panel. Might I suggest using a Dremel tool with a cylindrical stone (like that used in sharpening chainsaw chains) flat against each screw head and moving from screw to screw to avoid heat buildup. Grind just enough to get the screw heads to pop off and to hopefully not mar the plastic dash panel too badly. Drilling them out would probably just cause them to spin and add to your frustration. The good news is that any cosmetic damage you might incur will be covered up by the new screws and windshield gasket. Good Luck!

  6. #6
    Grammarian no, Rider yes ISAMEMON's Avatar
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    thanks all
    what I ended up doing was taking a pair of needle nose vice grips and grabbing the head of the screw so it cant turn, and then used a drill bit to drill the center of the screw head to seperate the head form the "shaft"

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