• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

Chain question

awagnon

Member
I just bought a used 2006 F650GS with just over 7,000 miles on the clock. It really needed cleaning up, so I did some disassembly in the process. Inside the front chain sprocket housing were 3 or 4 small broken O-rings in the gunk which I assume are from the chain. Question: do I go ahead and replace the chain with only 7,000 miles on it? If so, should I replace the sprockets which look fine? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
It sounds like somebody used a lube that was incompatible with O ring chains, damaged the rubber, and lost, or is losing the lube from the links.

I think the chain will soon be toast. Carefully examine the sprockets. Conventional wisdom is that sprockets wear as fast as chains so should be changed when the chain is, but in this case the chain is damaged - probably by an improper lubricant - so the sprockets may not be worn to anywhere near their limit. Look for uniform teeth with no sighn of hooking of the teeth.

It is probably true that used sprockets may cause the new chain to wear faster than it would with new sprockets, but if the sprockets are good this isn't necessarily the case.

Inspect them carefully and then decide.
 
I think the chain will soon be toast.

Thank you, Paul. That is what I was afraid of. The sprockets do look good, but I'll give them a closer look tomorrow. I don't know what lube the previous owner used. For future reference, is it safe to use ATF on all chains?
 
chains....

I have never heard of using ATF... the "universal" lube I have heard used is 90Wt MANUAL transmission lube. I think I would either go with that or just get a spray can of chain lube that says it is for o-ring chains.

Right now I'm using some PJ brand that is clear so doesn't make quite the mess of some others (or at least you can't SEE the mess).

If the sproket teeth look "hooked" on one side then they are worn... if the openings are still symetrical "U" shape you are probably good to go...

Wiggle each link of the chain and if any are binding I'd go with new chain pronto.

Just my $0.02...

Jim
 
I am now a firm believer in using ATF on O ring chains. I have been using it for several years with no problems. An O ring chain is permanently lubed internally, as long as the O rings are intact. It just needs something to protect the exterior from rust. I just wipe ATF on with a paper towel. The first pass cleans the chain and the towel is black the second time around provides a protective coating and the towel is just red from the ATF. Some does fling off but is easily wiped off. The nice thing is the longer you use it the cleaner the chain gets! On my F650s I apply it every 2nd tank of fuel if riding pavement and every tank of riding dirt. Over the years I have used 90Wt gear oil, spray wax, some foam stuff and even removing the chain and cooking it in a can of wax in the old days, ATF wins. On my F650GS the original chain is approaching 15000 miles. Neither chain or sprockets show wear and are clean.
 
I have never heard of using ATF...

The reason I mentioned ATF, is because it seems to be the "lube" of choice on the Chain Gang forum. I was worried it might damage the O- or X-rings of the chain.

The sprockets do look perfect and they only have 7,000 miles on them. No hooking, so I'm probably going to replace just the chain. I guess going with another 520 chain is the way to go if I don't replace the sprockets? Any strong feelings about "clip" master links vs "riveted" master links?
 
I am now a firm believer in using ATF on O ring chains. I have been using it for several years with no problems. An O ring chain is permanently lubed internally, as long as the O rings are intact. It just needs something to protect the exterior from rust. I just wipe ATF on with a paper towel. The first pass cleans the chain and the towel is black the second time around provides a protective coating and the towel is just red from the ATF. Some does fling off but is easily wiped off. The nice thing is the longer you use it the cleaner the chain gets! On my F650s I apply it every 2nd tank of fuel if riding pavement and every tank of riding dirt. Over the years I have used 90Wt gear oil, spray wax, some foam stuff and even removing the chain and cooking it in a can of wax in the old days, ATF wins. On my F650GS the original chain is approaching 15000 miles. Neither chain or sprockets show wear and are clean.

I use WD40. I don't care for most of the "chain lubes" as they usually brag about "not flying off". They seem to collect grit on the Orings and grind your chain into uselessness. Using WD40 periodically, I usually get somewhere between 17 and 20K miles on a chain.

And be sure not to overtension the chain. Too loose or too tight will wreak all kinds of havoc on them.
 
The reason I mentioned ATF, is because it seems to be the "lube" of choice on the Chain Gang forum. I was worried it might damage the O- or X-rings of the chain.

The sprockets do look perfect and they only have 7,000 miles on them. No hooking, so I'm probably going to replace just the chain. I guess going with another 520 chain is the way to go if I don't replace the sprockets? Any strong feelings about "clip" master links vs "riveted" master links?

Some guys on some bikes go to a slightly wider chain -- the 525 which would give better wear; I don't know if that is an option for you or not.... and personally I have never done that but am thinking about it...


When you by an "aftermarket" it will come with a master link, which I personally like... If you do not like it you would have to go thru a few extra steps to make it masterless. I just run what the post man brings and I have never had a problem. :whistle

2 suggestions:

1) be 110% SURE the link is FULLY FREAKING ENGAGED ... get out a magnifying glass if you have to ... it is pretty easy to have the clip end up not being fully in the slots of the master link pins

2) Some riders put a small blob of RTV/silicon over the master link clip.... I don't know that that can help... but I don't see how it can hurt.

On the lube, that's interesting I had not heard of using ATF.
I'm not saying it's bad, I got no experience there....

Plenty of heated discussions in other places about wether WD-40 is good or not and I ain't gonna start another one here. :bolt but personally I don't use it because it just doesn't have enough "body" (viscosity) to suit me....
Do a google search and you can find a number of flame wars in this subject....
Me ... I say "live and let live" :laugh

Jim
 
1) be 110% SURE the link is FULLY FREAKING ENGAGED ... get out a magnifying glass if you have to ... it is pretty easy to have the clip end up not being fully in the slots of the master link pins

2) Some riders put a small blob of RTV/silicon over the master link clip.... I don't know that that can help... but I don't see how it can hurt.

I spent the $50 for a master link tool that peens the pins over. No master link clip to lose and it essentially allows you to install an endless chain without having to take the whole bike apart.

It's well worth it and makes installing a new chain painless. I think I got mine from RK, since I usually use RK chains, but stock sprockets. Avoid the aluminum ones, they wear so fast it's pathetic.
 
Chain Solution

Almost everything you could ever want to know about an F650GS is at www.f650.com. I've been using ATF for some time now and replace the chains at 18K to 24K miles. The Chain Gang also has the real deal on a replacement chain and sprocket set. One drop on each link when you get gas is enough. And to repeat from above, always-always-always-always make sure the master link is secure.
 
I spent the $50 for a master link tool that peens the pins over. No master link clip to lose and it essentially allows you to install an endless chain without having to take the whole bike apart.

It's well worth it and makes installing a new chain painless. I think I got mine from RK, since I usually use RK chains, but stock sprockets. Avoid the aluminum ones, they wear so fast it's pathetic.

KBasa:

Do you have a make/model on that tool -- is it RK branded?
It sounds neat!

How do you "un-peen" the link ... or do you use new link every time you disassemble the chain?

Thanks,
Jim
 
What's a chain??

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Oh yeah, it's that thing on my kids' Kawasaki that never gets lubed by them.

Never mind................ :bolt
 
KBasa:

Do you have a make/model on that tool -- is it RK branded?
It sounds neat!

How do you "un-peen" the link ... or do you use new link every time you disassemble the chain?

Thanks,
Jim

Hey Jim - I found the same tool, only not with the RK label on it here: http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/318427/drive-systems-chain-press-and-rivet-tool.html $44 and good for the rest of your life, your kids' lives and their grandkids' lives.

The flat plate allows you to properly affix the the side plate (don't forget to install the Orings) and the pointy bit allows you to peen the pins flat. Mine has some instructions about how a properly peened pin should look.

Every time you have to change the chain, you just grind off the peened over section and pop the link out, just like a master link and clip. It's not reusable, but your new chain should come with both a standard clip style link and one you can peen.

I use a Dremel tool to grind the pins off, but have also used a disc grinder. The spark show is awesome!

I believe this is far more secure than mucking around with a clip, having lost them in the past, even though I could have sworn they were correctly installed.

544323-1.jpg
 
Back
Top