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Thread: R75/6 cleaning engine aluminum

  1. #1
    Registered User ripperfarms's Avatar
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    Lightbulb R75/6 cleaning engine aluminum

    I have recently purchased a 1976 R75/6.

    The aluminum engine sides and parts need cleaning. They are oxidized.

    What is good to use on these parts.

    I bought a Mothers cleaning ball today for my drill but it just turned the engine sides dark gray.

    I also bought Mothers Aluminum and Mag Cleaner but I did not have much in the ball.

    Now that I turned it dark gray I wish I would have left it alone. It looked better with some oxidation on it.

    I don't want it "brightly polished" because I don't want to have to keep it that way...just ride.

    Any ideas appreciated.

    Dave in Central IL.
    1966 R50/2 with Jawa/Velorex sidecar

  2. #2
    MISTERMIKE
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    Hit it with some wd 40 and a plastic bristle brush. This should remove the grey eventually. There was a vendor at ama vintage days selling a product called a liquid metal cleaner called Strong Arm that seemed to work pretty well. I bought a can but haven't tried it yet.

  3. #3
    Focused kbasa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistermike View Post
    Hit it with some wd 40 and a plastic bristle brush. This should remove the grey eventually. There was a vendor at ama vintage days selling a product called a liquid metal cleaner called Strong Arm that seemed to work pretty well. I bought a can but haven't tried it yet.
    I used WD40 and a green Scotchbrite pad on mine. It looks pretty good.

    It takes a while, but the elbow grease will be worth it.
    Dave Swider
    Marin County, CA

    Some bikes. Some with motors, some without.

  4. #4
    --Tony AnnapolisAirhead's Avatar
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    I've heard Murphy's Oil Soap work well too.
    1971 BMW R75/5 | 1975 Moto Guzzi 850T Cafe | 1983 BMW R100RS | 1988 BMW R100GS
    1988 BMW K75 | 1998 BWM R1100RT | 2000 Moto Guzzi Quota 1100ES |2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans

  5. #5
    I like Autosol.

  6. #6
    Registered User robertklee's Avatar
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    Diesel and a parts cleaning brush...but your shop and clothes ...and body...will smell like diesel for six months.
    RKL
    "Leave the gun. Take the cannoli."

  7. #7
    VANZEN
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    age old hassle

    Sorry – No easy way that I've found to clean the oxidised castings.
    Elbow Grease will be a component of any proceedure short of disassembly and media blasting
    (and my vote is for soda if that option is pursued)

    What works well for me is spray Carb cleaner, scotchbrite pads – and lots of the above E.G.
    Followed by a light wiping of Fluid Film, a corrosion preventive/protectant spray to 'seal' the surface.
    Fluid Film is a product like WD40 – but less corrosive.

    Mother's is a decent polish, and if the color left is 'dark grey' – I'm guessing the polish and residue has not been (completely) removed.
    Mother's works best when working a very small area at one time, followed quickly,
    before the stuff dries, by a good buffing with a clean cloth to remove all polish and 'grey matter'.
    IF the 'grey stuff' dries before it can be removed ... CARB CLEANER works well to loosen it up and get it off.
    Note: in any event, Mother's works best on polished aluminum surfaces.

    Many will use an acid based aluminum (mag wheel) cleaner, which can work, but follow directions implicitly – or the results can be disastrous.

  8. #8
    Airhead krehmkej's Avatar
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    I searched the archives and tried (I think) every method of cleaning my old corroded cases and covers. They still had a blackened, splotchy look. After all this scrubbing and scouring, the engine was REALLY clean, however. As it was out of the frame, I sprayed it with etching primer and cast aluminum engine paint. The color on the engine block matched my newly blasted cylinders and heads perfectly. 6 months on, and it still looks great. The purists and scolds will blanch and howl, but it worked for me. YMMV
    -jwk-

    1978 R80/7

  9. #9
    bearsfolks
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    Keep it nice after cleaning

    My mechanic uses Krylon clear plastic ignition spray after cleaning the corrosion off aluminum parts. It gives a satin-like finish and prevents re-occurance of the corrosion.

  10. #10
    Rally Rat
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    Hello "his son" I used on mine mothers powerball mini and powermetal polish worked like a champ no elbow grease required.

  11. #11
    Smoked Pigs Ass Rider 01 gsweave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBasa View Post
    I used WD40 and a green Scotchbrite pad on mine. It looks pretty good.

    It takes a while, but the elbow grease will be worth it.


    +1

    Other things that work.

    Kerosene and scotchbrite pads.

    My wifes, mini steam cleaner and a toothbrush.

    If it seems simple, and quick, it won't give you the results you want.

  12. #12
    VANZEN
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    ignition spray

    Quote Originally Posted by bearsfolks View Post
    My mechanic uses Krylon clear plastic ignition spray after cleaning the corrosion off aluminum parts. It gives a satin-like finish and prevents re-occurance of the corrosion.
    Krylon ignition spray ? ... silicone ?

  13. #13
    --Tony AnnapolisAirhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krehmkej View Post
    I searched the archives and tried (I think) every method of cleaning my old corroded cases and covers. They still had a blackened, splotchy look. After all this scrubbing and scouring, the engine was REALLY clean, however. As it was out of the frame, I sprayed it with etching primer and cast aluminum engine paint. The color on the engine block matched my newly blasted cylinders and heads perfectly. 6 months on, and it still looks great. The purists and scolds will blanch and howl, but it worked for me. YMMV
    Got any pics?
    1971 BMW R75/5 | 1975 Moto Guzzi 850T Cafe | 1983 BMW R100RS | 1988 BMW R100GS
    1988 BMW K75 | 1998 BWM R1100RT | 2000 Moto Guzzi Quota 1100ES |2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans

  14. #14
    Airhead krehmkej's Avatar
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    Kind of hard to capture the texture, but this shot should give an idea.

    -jwk-

    1978 R80/7

  15. #15
    arlene
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    um....yep...that is nice....

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