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Thread: Sparkly oil - Final Drive issue

  1. #31
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    You will see right away upon disassembly - if they are pitted (usually are) they cannot be reused as setting the correct preload torque will be inaccurate (per BMW master mechanic's words) If you can reuse them be sure to use fresh moly grease.
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  2. #32
    RIDERR1150GSADV
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    Just replace those pivot bearing with the bronze bushings from http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html . I did it, and with 48K on the clock and those bearings were toast...
    There is no reason for needle bearings in that application there. YMMV

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by riderR1150GSAdv View Post
    Just replace those pivot bearing with the bronze bushings from http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html . I did it, and with 48K on the clock and those bearings were toast...
    There is no reason for needle bearings in that application there. YMMV
    How long have you been running them? Have you disassembled and done a wear inspection? I am most interested as I am on my 4th set of OE's in 156,000 km.
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  4. #34
    looking for a coal mine knary's Avatar
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    p.s. Thanks to every one for the feedback so far.

  5. #35
    RIDERR1150GSADV
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    How long have you been running them? Have you disassembled and done a wear inspection? I am most interested as I am on my 4th set of OE's in 156,000 km.
    I was on my first and last OEM set. I did a major inspection at 42 K and found those bearings somewhat wanting. There were impressions in the outer and inner races from the needles and so I ordered the bushings. I got 2.5 years and 48 K out of the OEM set...
    When you install the OEM set it is very critical that you have the correct torque value upon assembly 7 NM is less than the valve cover bolts on an R bike!!!! I am not implying you did anything wrong, but with the bushings there is nothing to crush upon installation. Like I said there is no reason for needle bearings in that application, as movement at the FD pivot point is very very limited. This is why you see impressions of the needles in the races as the bearing barely moves and the needles stay in one place.
    This is a typical example of over-engineering IMHO..YMMV

  6. #36
    JANMILLER
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    I replaced the bearing myself following directions on web. Not hard, no special tools. Only difficulty I had was getting the bearing off the bull gear, it 'should' come off with simple heating with a hot air gun, but in my case it had to be cut off with a torch ultimately. Ugly, and maybe why it failed, too tight?? New bearing went on as recommended, freezing gear and heating bearing, dropped on ok. cost about $135 bucks in parts, maybe 3 hours. Same signs, though not as many sparklies... Ugly denied by BMW problem. I now change final drive oil with every engine oil change and look for the dreaded metal flecks.

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by knary View Post
    :Is there any reason I shouldn't do this myself?
    Do it yourself, and use your mad artistical skilz to take lots of pictures so the rest of us can do it when our time comes.

  8. #38
    Registered User skyking96w's Avatar
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    Pivot bearings?

    Scott -- my guess is that the pivot bearings would not exhibit failure in a catastrophic manner on the road someplace, so you could probably wait. I have a friend who had to have them replaced on the road just prior to departing from San Diego on a ride to Florida. I will ask her what the symptoms were and how long she noticed them before stopping for service.

    How about posting your FD failure information here: http://www.bmwfinaldrive.com/
    Ray King
    R1200C; R1200RT
    MOA, RA, IBA, AMA
    Jacksonville, FL

  9. #39
    looking for a coal mine knary's Avatar
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    If I pull the final drive, I'm both already there and ready to replace those bearings. AND I may well find them in less than ideal condition.

    Mostly I'm debating over how much time I do or don't have to do this work myself. I will have someone else install the new bearings. I just need to decide if I'm going to pull the drive and ship it off or ride it in. The ride in may well end up costing me a few hundred dollars, but will take far less of my time - and those dollars would go towards more work on the bike.

  10. #40
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by riderR1150GSAdv View Post
    I was on my first and last OEM set. I did a major inspection at 42 K and found those bearings somewhat wanting. There were impressions in the outer and inner races from the needles and so I ordered the bushings. I got 2.5 years and 48 K out of the OEM set...
    When you install the OEM set it is very critical that you have the correct torque value upon assembly 7 NM is less than the valve cover bolts on an R bike!!!! I am not implying you did anything wrong, but with the bushings there is nothing to crush upon installation. Like I said there is no reason for needle bearings in that application, as movement at the FD pivot point is very very limited. This is why you see impressions of the needles in the races as the bearing barely moves and the needles stay in one place.
    This is a typical example of over-engineering IMHO..YMMV
    Thanks for your feedback, how long have you been on the bushings? Your points are well noted (2 sets were warranty by the dealer in my case) but I have had my fill of them too. FYI I set the preload with a calibrated fish scale on a 12" bar - no guessing there.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  11. #41
    looking for a coal mine knary's Avatar
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    The bike is going in to Steve Prokop's this saturday - days before he'll actually be able to look at it. I should get it back the following saturday.

  12. #42
    RIDERR1150GSADV
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    Thanks for your feedback, how long have you been on the bushings? Your points are well noted (2 sets were warranty by the dealer in my case) but I have had my fill of them too. FYI I set the preload with a calibrated fish scale on a 12" bar - no guessing there.
    Your welcome! I have used the bushings for maybe 1 K miles as I am not riding much till June. I did ride a couple hundred miles off pavement and so far no play in them. I will check them before my trip this summer...
    I can't believe that you went through so many bearings.. Makes you wonder about the quality of these Chinese bearings???

    Good luck Scott on the FD repair!!

  13. #43
    Still Wondering mika's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knary View Post
    The bike is going in to Steve Prokop's this saturday - days before he'll actually be able to look at it. I should get it back the following saturday.
    What about the bacon? What happened to it?

  14. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by riderR1150GSAdv View Post
    Your welcome! I have used the bushings for maybe 1 K miles as I am not riding much till June. I did ride a couple hundred miles off pavement and so far no play in them. I will check them before my trip this summer...
    I can't believe that you went through so many bearings.. Makes you wonder about the quality of these Chinese bearings???

    Good luck Scott on the FD repair!!
    I've got a set of those bushings as well. It is my understanding they are to be retorqued once at between 600 and 1000 miles.
    Frank G.
    Hattiesburg, Mississippi
    2004 R1150RT

  15. #45
    looking for a coal mine knary's Avatar
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    The bike is at the shop. I nervously rode it the 30 miles in, knowing how bad it had gotten. Giving the rear wheel a spin by hand, it's VERY evident that the bearing is dying fast. The bearings are probably a good bit smaller than they're supposed to be by now.

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