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Thread: Sparkly oil - Final Drive issue

  1. #16
    JACINTHEIS
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    additives

    Alex, what is "that DC additive"? also does anyone suggest any additives for the crankcase and the gearbox?

  2. #17
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacintheis View Post
    Alex, what is "that DC additive"? also does anyone suggest any additives for the crankcase and the gearbox?
    M Gear Oil Additive made by Dow Corning.

    NOTE: Dow Corning M Gear Oil Additive is not recommended for addition to nonflammable or fire-resistant hydraulic fluids, or other synthetic fluids such as polyglycols, diesters or silicones.

    I've been using it since the early 90s in the transmission and final drive of my R100 GS.

    In my 2003 and 2004 R1150 GS Adventures, it only gets used in the final drives. BTW, the final drive oil came out pitch black (hello! moly present) at the 1000 kilometer inspection...I firmly believe that BMW was using an additive in the final drive oil. They never admitted to it when I asked. Only a few other owners reported seeing the same, but then, very few owners perform the 1st inspection.

    I mix it in at 5% into Bel-Ray Gear Saver Hypoid Gear Oil SAE 90 (what is called for in my owner's manual). That is a non-synthetic. Its not like my final drive goes through temperature extremes or through mega-mile oil change intervals to benefit from a synthetic.

    As for engine oil additives, I do not use any.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlobalRider View Post
    And I was just talking about that yesterday as I was changing all my fluids and oil filter.

    Ever since I've been using that DC additive, I have had absolutely zero in the way of anything on my magnetic drain plug.

    Time will tell.
    I really do wish all I'd seen was the usual hairy fuzz that I'd seen previous and on my K-bike (as well as other people's bikes when helping them).

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by knary View Post
    I really do wish all I'd seen was the usual hairy fuzz that I'd seen previous and on my K-bike (as well as other people's bikes when helping them).
    Well look at the bright side; you'll get another 60K miles of enjoyment with that new final drive. It beats chains, sprockets and cleaning/lubing.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlobalRider View Post
    Well look at the bright side; you'll get another 60K miles of enjoyment with that new final drive. It beats chains, sprockets and cleaning/lubing.


    I don't suppose you've got a shiny R11GS drive laying around?

  6. #21
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knary View Post


    I don't suppose you've got a shiny R11GS drive laying around?
    Nope, but I have a spare new driveshaft for my R100 GS that I've never needed...yet.

  7. #22
    FatChance
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    Scott - I think it just indicates a bad bearing, not a problem with the FD gears. Just change the bearing (get the newer big bearing unit) and put in a new seal. From what you say, there is no indication you need a whole FD unit and there is no reason to change out the pinion gear set unless you want to spend the extra money. How often do you change out the FD oil? I change mine every other oil change (I just did it yesterday, in fact - 80w90 dyno hypoid - came out clean) and watch for any changes. Save your money for more paint or buy your wife a present for putting up with you.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
    Scott - I think it just indicates a bad bearing, not a problem with the FD gears. Just change the bearing (get the newer big bearing unit) and put in a new seal. From what you say, there is no indication you need a whole FD unit and there is no reason to change out the pinion gear set unless you want to spend the extra money. How often do you change out the FD oil? I change mine every other oil change (I just did it yesterday, in fact - 80w90 dyno hypoid - came out clean) and watch for any changes. Save your money for more paint or buy your wife a present for putting up with you.
    I agree!
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
    Scott - I think it just indicates a bad bearing, not a problem with the FD gears. Just change the bearing (get the newer big bearing unit) and put in a new seal. From what you say, there is no indication you need a whole FD unit and there is no reason to change out the pinion gear set unless you want to spend the extra money. How often do you change out the FD oil? I change mine every other oil change (I just did it yesterday, in fact - 80w90 dyno hypoid - came out clean) and watch for any changes. Save your money for more paint or buy your wife a present for putting up with you.


    I had been changing it every spring.

    Is there any reason I shouldn't do this myself? I'm just getting my head around what's involved and it seems very straight forward.

  10. #25
    i just had this done to my 1150GS... after finding a puddle of oil on the rim one morning.

    interestingly, i had just had the bike serviced and there was nothing suspect in the oil that came from the drive. it was actually the seal that failed... the big bearing was getting ready to go.

    looks like i caught the problem just in time, and thankfully, the problem was spotted in my garage and not the middle of nowhere.

    a new bearing and proper shimming, along with a new seal and everything is good.

    it cost $500, scott, and i know it can be done yourself, but i wanted to make sure my drive was shimmed properly... i don't trust my skills on something like this, especially on such a major component.

    ian
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  11. #26
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
    Just change the bearing and put in a new seal.
    I'd also want to make sure no particles remain within the rear wheel drive.

  12. #27
    FatChance
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlobalRider View Post
    I'd also want to make sure no particles remain within the rear wheel drive.
    Very prudent.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Visian View Post
    it cost $500, scott, and i know it can be done yourself, but i wanted to make sure my drive was shimmed properly... i don't trust my skills on something like this, especially on such a major component.

    ian
    That's what I was thinking as well. I've called a couple places.

    Place 1. Mail it in. $300 R&R + shipping.
    Place 2. Local guru. Ride it in. Was told that we should go ahead and replace the pivot bearings as well while we're there. $720.

  14. #29
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    2 big bearing failures in 138,000 km - drain plug looked just like that as well as low level grumble when wheel was turned by hand. Gear teeth were perfect in both cases, careful inspection of bearing showed significant pitting in the outer race (just starting to 'pick up')
    I have always changed my FD oil every 10,000 km with synthetic (so easy to do and qty. is only 250 ml - it seems like such a small qty)
    The second time around I determined that my unit was shimmed too tight and made the necessary adjustments. The jury is now out as far as how long this bearing will last.
    '
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  15. #30
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    Any guess as to whether I should go ahead and service the pivot bearings while we're having fun down there? There's no unwanted play at this point, but the bike's got approaching 60k miles. I'm inclined to ignore them for now.

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