Bing carbeuretor numbers

Does anyone understand the numbers on the bing vacuum carbs and what they mean? I have hung a set of 900 carbs(64/32/11&12) on a 750 (64/32/9&10) Carbeuretor #64/32/10 was ruined from holding water and the 900 set was "handy". The bike now performs in-consistenly. Any and all opinions gratefully accepted.

bing carbs

Get the tuning manual from Bing Agency International. There tech line number is 620-767-7844 or on their web site at bingcarburetor.com. This manual has helped me a lot. Good luck.

woodnsteel said:

Does anyone understand the numbers on the bing vacuum carbs and what they mean? I have hung a set of 900 carbs(64/32/11&12) on a 750 (64/32/9&10) Carbeuretor #64/32/10 was ruined from holding water and the 900 set was "handy". The bike now performs in-consistenly. Any and all opinions gratefully accepted.

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According to my Bing Manual there a bunch of differences betweem the 9/10s and the 11/12s - most significant are different Slides, Main Jets, Needle Jets and Idle Mix settings but there are other differences (e.g., clip position, atomizer): the result is going to be, among other things, a much too rich fuel mixture (try pulling your spark plugs and see if they are carbon fouled). You should call Bing to confirm, but you should be able to switch out all of the parts for the correct ones (if you need new slides, they alone could cost $100 or more for both).

What exactly was ruined on the old set? Have you checked all of the internals to see if you can salvage parts for use with the 900 bodies?

64 means constant velocity type, either 26, 28, or 32 mm bore as determined by next number

94 is exclusively used for the 40mm cv carbs

next
32 (or 40) indicates the size of the carb, 32mm or 40mm bore, etc.

the remaining numbers indicate jetting when manufactured, and of course whether left- or right-side carb. These numbers are no guarantee of anything, of course, since jets are easily changed. The list of things this refers to includes slide, main jet, needle jet, atomizer, idle jet, throttle valve, throttle shaft, float bowl, clip position, and type of starter carb, i.e. "choke."

Thanks for the info. When I dropped the float bowl on the carb, the only color I saw was orange. The needle was rusted in the jet and the clip was rusty enough that the needle seperated from the slide. No kidding, this is as bad as anyone can imagine. The opinion here locally is that the carb is RUINED. I suppose the best low budget strategy would be to try to find a 64/32/10 to re-build. The left hand(64/32/9) carb is clean inside. Remarkably, the spark plugs look to be running lean. I guess those "handy" 900 carbs are needing a re-build too. Much work yet to be done.