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Nova Scotia...Here I come...

scubart

New member
Heading from Orlando to NS the first two weeks of June. First stop is to pickup a friend in Hiawassee GA, then on to Winchester VA, Killington VT...then into Canada.

Anyone have any "absolutely gotta do's" while we're there? Cabot Trail and Cape Briton are tops on the list. If you had a fav place to stay, place to eat or place for a beer...Please share.!

:wave
 
If you are into history, Fortress Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island is a must. The Cabot Trail is also not to be missed but then again you know that. At the tourist centres in Nova Scotia, pick up a brochure of university and college residences for very very reasonable accommodation. Virtually every direction that you point your bike you will find fantastic landscape. Enjoy your trip!
 
Nova Scotia

Please check out this thread:


Nova Scotia

Lots of good basic information.

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You need to stop at the Doryman in Cheticamp to hear the locals play Celtic music and step dance.
 
Camp overnight in Meat Cove and take the Mariner's trail from Halifax east - those were my tops!
 
Cheticamp Fish company to get a cooked lobster, or the Scalops
 
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Cheticamp Fish company to get a cooked lobster, or the Scalops

The Baddeck Lobster Supper Restaurant is also a good one. The entire area is charming. My eight day trip last August was not even close to being enough. There are still three-quarters of the perimeter roads yet to ride, live music yet to hear, and thousands of pictures yet to take.

I bring plenty of Cape Breton and other Celtic music with me everywhere, and somehow it just sounded better near the source. Natalie MacMaster, Raylene Rankin, and the Rankin Family are the ones that come immediately to mind.

This sounds interesting and I just started downloading. There's a Victoria County podcast available here: http://www.connectedcommunities.ca/newmedia.html
 
Thoughts from a Nova Scotian stuck in Ontario

Nova Scotia "eh"?

Well, here goes:

As previously mentioned the Cabot Trail is great. My preference is to do it counterclockwise. This way you are on the outside of the mountains and get a better view DOWN. I've had comments come back to me that some would have preferred to be on the inside of the road up against the mountain instead of next to the edge. That's up to you. Now, the road is not like the 3 Cornices near Monaco in the South of France in terms of danger or precariousness but you should always be careful in parts.

Halifax, my hometown. A good idea was mentioned about staying in residences at the universities. St. Mary's or Dalhousie would be great. Hfx is a "big" small city. The downtown on the waterfront is super. If you are there on a Friday or Saturday definitely head for the Lower Deck for a pint (or several) and some great East Coast Music. The Lower Deck ranges in ages from university to uh, well, close to retirement. It's all good fun. During the day in good weather you can sit on their patio and watch the tourists go by on the waterfront but it truly gets going around 8 or 9 on when the bands start to play...it's also difficult to get in too, with line ups. Maybe a small cover charge too for the music. We used to go early to avoid the cover charge. In hindsight the amount of beer consumed waiting for the music to start was no doubt more than the savings from the cover charge.

Oh, a tip on pubs. Growing up there I always thought this normal, but in terms of paying for your beer or food you are usually asked to pay as you receive it. Maybe this has to do with servers in pubs not covering certain areas and thus ensuring a tip. I later thought it might have more to do with the establishment making sure they limit their losses from dine-n-dash techniques of the copious student population in the city. Either way, some pubs may have the pay as you go system. Just hand 'em the cash and throw a tip (your discretion) on the beer tray.

Out of Hfx head to Peggys Cove. Whether you like it or not it is a must do. Don't get too close to the waves.

Leaving there head to the South Shore. It is much more populated than other parts of NS. Mahone Bay, Chester and Lunenburg and nice spots to stop and ride through.

If you enjoy parking the ride for a bit and heading off for a hike, go towards Blomidon in the Annapolis Valley. It is just outside Wolfville (nice college town to stop for lunch). There is a hiking trail (about 1 hour) out to the edge of a cliff overlooking Bay of Fundy...great views!

If you are near Truro cross your fingers that you get to see the tides come in. Actually, Google "Bay of Fundy Tidal Bore" and find where the best spots are to see it come in. Naturally the times are governed by the the moon cycle. No guarantee you'll be there at the right time.

A note on the roads. The Maritimes get pretty bad winters in terms of freeze / thaw cycle. This leaves the roads pretty rough in places. A fact. The new highways are the 100 series (102, 103). The old and original highways are hwy 1, hwy 2 and correspond to the 101, 102 (they are roughly parallel). The old highways get you closer to the towns and the coast etc but watch for rough sections. Telling you now. They're not beautiful Dwight Eisenhower dictated highways.

Weather. I pray you get good weather. June can be a make or break month. That is, summer usually hits in June and it's great. Last year my friends drove out and they had a cloud follow them everywhere. I felt soooooo bad. My fingers are crossed for you.

Fortress Louisbourg: if you are into the recreation of historic sites with re-enactment this is a super place. A French fort that changed hands several times during the French / English fight for North America. Just don't wear a red coat "redcoat" when you approach the drawbridge.

Along the coast many peninsulas have roads along the edge. Just explore.

Good Luck. I'm off for a ride shortly but I'll try to put up some pics later.

g
 
Try this:)

Lobster on a "BUN". Never seen it until I rode up there:), from California a couple years ago. I had to try it for lunch at a roadside cafe, while there. About 9 bucks gets a Lobster on a BUN,hehehe. It was good. Actually a "hot dog" bun and I laughed out loud, as she served it. Randy13233:)
 
Our stops

My wife and I rode our bikes through Nova Scotia for almost two weeks last summer on a three week trip - both on paved and dirt roads and enjoyed every minute...even in the three days of suspended mist. We were in Yarmouth on the 5th of June and departed Yarmouth on the 18th of June.

Big on our list of places to stay & camp:

The Ovens Campground - Ovens Park - owned by the Chapin family - yep...Harry Chapins family....and Tom Chapin's wife. Even have a Harry Chapin sing-along in August. Great campground.

Oceanstone Inn and Cottages - Peggy's Cove Rd./ Indian Harbour. The restaurant out front - is fantastic - the cottages are great - the breakfasts on the terrace were great - one of the highlights of the stay. www.oceanstone.ns.ca

Peggys Cove - probably a not to miss location. Great photos - obviously impressive landscape.

Lunenberg - I read that some love it - just as many pass it by. I really enjoyed Lunenberg - great wharf town - good restaurants/entertainment. Recommend the Spinnaker Inn - www.spinnakerinn.com. We were there on a foggy night which really added to the wharf-like feeling.

Halifax - stayed at the Marriott, which offered us parking in a fenced commercial lot/loading dock right behind the hotel. Ended up being there for the Tall Ships Festival. Halifax is an amazing town - vibrant city center - tremendous restaurant district - great entertainment. A real not to miss night.

Spent time on the eastern shore - great little towns - great pics - camped a lot of the time. We loved it...didn't see but four or five other bikes in three days.

Louisbourg - great place if you have the time - Louisbourg Harbour Inn. Really friendly and clean.

Glengorhm Beach Resort - Ingonish - great place to stay. The Thirsty Hiker Pub has great entertainment and a great T-shirt to take home. I negotiated a great rate to stay here one night and at their sister Inverary Resort for two nights...or vice versa...

Baddeck - not to miss the Inverary Resort. We negotiated a really discounted room rate - called an hour before arrival. Ate in Baddeck at a great restaurant called The Rose? or the something rose (great outdoor dining on a wrap-around porch - did not do the Baddeck lobster dinner - overrated and there for tourists. Lobster is everywhere - even if you have to ask a little for it. Inverary is great - has kayaks to use - great paddling around the bay - and out to the island - good swimming. Good entertainment at night right at the resort bar. Very nice stop.

Just above Ingonish - look for Margee Falls - this is a great place to go for a swim. The waterfall has jumping points and a great pool of chilly water. It's about a two mile graded dirt road to get back to the falls - and there's wooden stairs to access the falls itself. Great place to spend a few hours on a warm day.

Stayed at a place just above Neils Harbour - we left the main road to ride out a little side road to a fishing village. I remember great pics and finding this place and saying - we should spend the night. Had a great dinner in someone's backyard at their picnic table. Really great night. There was this cove that had Caribbean turquoise water - unbelievable swim. Don't always have to stay on the Cabot Trail.

Meat Cove - an absolute must. Bring the tent for at least an overnight. Pack some snacks and drinks before driving out to Meat Cove. The road is about five miles of dirt but just fine...Harleys and fifth wheels even make it out to Meat Cove. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and is really good - based on their location. There's also a little general store about a mile walk that has snacks, ice cream and internet access. Hike to the top of the hill next to the campground to really take in the views.

I didn't really like Cheticamp - after spending several nights in little towns - pulling into Cheticamp is a let down...at least for us.

Glengora - for a wee nip...not to miss.

Inverness Beach Village - MacLeods Campground in Inverness. We loved Inverness and the long stretch of beach. Negotiated a great rate for a cottage - chairs outside to watch the sunset. The beach is literally filled with beach glass of all colors - never got the reason why it's all there. My wife makes beach glass jewelry - she was in heaven. Great restaurant about a mile down the beach - little white place just off the beach with great food...reminded me of something in a Mediterranean town. This is a great place - great riding around the area. Not to miss - about a half hour down the road is the Red Door - where the music scene is the absolute best. Some good dirt road riding.

Cape Chignecto - camping on the Funday Bay. Beautiful area.

Digby - had to go for the scallops. Great restaurants in town. Stopped by a tourist info center and asked about the Digby Pines Hotel - the receptionist called and got me a $100 walk-in rate. It was 5pm on a weekday in June. Definetely worth it. Loved the pool and the shuttle to/from town for dinner and drinks.

Digby Neck/ Island Scenic Road - nice place to pack a lunch and take a ride out.

Whatever you do - don't rush through Nova Scotia...there's so much to see. You'll meet many who "do" the Cabot Trail - which seems to entail staying at Cheticamp and or Baddeck and riding the whole way around the Cabot Trail the next day. You can plan a really nice getaway by taking your time.

We're headed back in July for three more weeks - also going to Newfoundland for a week and then back to Nova Scotia. Enjoy your time there.
 
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