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HI YALL, Possible carb problems

With both the stock floats and the dual floats the standard to start it to have the floats shut off the gas when the "Y" piece or the part that holds the float is parallel with the bottom of the body of the carb. Put a bowl under the carb and raise and lower the floats or the "Y" piece to shut the gas flow on and off.
To adjust the level bend the tab that hits the bottom of the float needle. It should shut off when the bar the floats hits is parallel to the bottom of the carb. I found that if I put a small wrench on its side up to the bottom of the carb where the float bowl sits it is easer to gauge when it is parallel.
Does any of this make sense ?
 
The floats should be parallel to the lower body of the carb - they usually come such that you need not adjust them - better that they are a hair (0.02" max) below than above. You adjust by bending the tab that the float needle and wire clip attach to with a small screwdriver. Just be careful when bending.
 
So here is a couple of pics of the new float setup.
bingfloats.jpg
floatbowl.jpg


The trouble with this setup is that the floats stay with the bowl. I did initial install with the lever (attatched to needle valve) as it was shipped. With the needle seated the lever itself (no floats) it is just lower than parallel on both carbs, so I would rather err on the low side. I will still call bing in the morning to verify this before I turn the fuel on.

I took the old overflow pipe out of the old bowls and drilled out the new bowls to accomodate the overflow pipe. If I can get a measurement of where the fuel level should be, I will use the overflow pipe to hook a clear hose to. To do this I will have to tap the overflow pipe to lower than the operating level and then tap it back when finished. A little more work than I want to do, but should be well worth it.

Acording to bing, with the dual floats, the fuel level will stay closer to optimum when cornering etc, thus improving performance.

I also rejetted to 145's (had 135's)

Here's a before after type shot.
bingcarbs.jpg


The left carb (dirty one) was pretty bad inside also. In the needle jet area alot of carbon or gunk like carbon. Both enrichment valve gaskets were blown out. The richness screw was all the way in on the left carb.

I can't wait to spark it up tomorrow, It's gonna run sa weet, at least I hope so. Got all the cables adjusted and starting with some preliminary adjustments. I do have an airflow meter and will try that if I have difficulty by ear.

I'd say sorry for the long winded post NOT I'm just so anxious to see if it will run like a Beemer should, it hasn't since the day I got it, and trust me, it isn't as much fun especially pulling up to a light and it's not idling proper, how embarassing.

Now I can imagine the nice pup-pup-pup-pup all even and sexy wooo hooo. :D
 
gambrinus said:
Hey MaGOO, Just for giggles, which L.A. area dealers did you take the bike to for service?

I'm not saying, but what I can say is it was Orange County, was the worst, and Long Beach/Carson did accomplish better performance but have moved and really didn't fix it either. Do you have a quality dealership to recomend?

I figure a guy who works day in and day out on BMW's, should only have to hear it for about 35 seconds to know what to do. Sorry, I just don't believe in trial and error from a dealership.

Needless to say I will do all my own wrenching on it from now on. I don't mind supporting the local dealer, but just can't give them money for sevice not rendered. I'll run to San Diego and get the parts to do the rear main. It's a nice drive.
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