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Photo Assignment: Weekend 12/8/07

Here it is again colour corrected (touch too blue maybe) but how could I have achieved this without software?

Just a guess, but it's probably the lighting throwing off the exposure. Many digital cameras have lighting control to compensate for white balance: you can usually select tungsten, florescent, outdoor, indoor, etc. They also usually have a white balance adjustment also, which is probably a more effective way to compensate for lighting, especially given how much white is in your subject. To get the yellow, white, green in focus would require a larger (smaller? I can never keep it straight) f-stop (deeper depth of field) which many pocket digital cameras don't let you adjust.
 
These are once again resized due to the extremely large size of the originals from the Canon D10 but are otherwise untouched:

Lots of patterns in this photo, but I'm not particularly fond of the focus, I think having the foreground balloon in focus would have been more effective:
IMG_0800a.jpg


The next two were taken outside Bell's Microbrewery here in Kalamazoo and are a long line of bicycle racks. I was lying on the ground, and people stopped more than once asking if I was OK before they noticed the camera. Guy lying down on the ground outside a bar, I could see how that could raise the question...

I think this image could have used more depth of field (hard to tell on the tiny 1.5" LCD) C&C?
IMG_0804a.jpg


While interesting, I didn't find this nearly as appealing as the image above, it too would have benefited by more depth of field:
IMG_0809a.jpg
 
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Hey I'm back

Just been lurking the last couple of weeks. I have two to post and please feel free to comment on either one you would like to. In previous posts I have described them, to mix it up no description given.

230600685-L.jpg
 
Second one here

A definite 100 bonus point for anyone who can tell what the pattern behind the pattern is.

230599283-L.jpg
 
Just a guess, but it's probably the lighting throwing off the exposure. Many digital cameras have lighting control to compensate for white balance: you can usually select tungsten, florescent, outdoor, indoor, etc. They also usually have a white balance adjustment also, which is probably a more effective way to compensate for lighting, especially given how much white is in your subject. To get the yellow, white, green in focus would require a larger (smaller? I can never keep it straight) f-stop (deeper depth of field) which many pocket digital cameras don't let you adjust.


Konica Minolta Dynax 7D -Sony 18-200 lens.
AWB set, also tried with WB button pressed down and then the little flower one.
Should I have used a flash?
 
Just a guess, but it's probably the lighting throwing off the exposure. Many digital cameras have lighting control to compensate for white balance: you can usually select tungsten, florescent, outdoor, indoor, etc. They also usually have a white balance adjustment also, which is probably a more effective way to compensate for lighting, especially given how much white is in your subject. To get the yellow, white, green in focus would require a larger (smaller? I can never keep it straight) f-stop (deeper depth of field) which many pocket digital cameras don't let you adjust.

I think John's comments here are right on. It's definitely your white balance. Color is rated in temperature. . . . Daylight is 5000 degrees, tungsten lamps are 3200 degrees, etc. In the old days, if you shot indoors without a flash (daylight film) your pics were yellow, much like your first one is. In the old days we attached a blue filter. Today, you either set your white balance to "tungsten" or take a white balance with a white card. Frankly, I rarely if ever mess with my white balance.

Insofar as the depth of field is concerned, two things:

To have a greater depth of focus, you need to have a greater depth of field. If adjustable on your camera, you need to stop down. That is, from f/8 to f/16 for example. If you don't understand these numbers, I'll give it a try. They are fractions. It's actually 1:8.0 or 1/8. Here 1 is the length of your lens and 8 (1/8) is the diameter of your aperture. It would take 8 aperture diameters to equal the length of your lens. Therefore, the larger the number (8, 11, 16, 22) the smaller the aperture and the greater the depth of field. 1/8, 1/11, 1/16, 1/22, etc.

Anytime you start messing with shutter speeds and apertures, especially indoors, you almost necessarily have to be on a tripod. Because stopping the aperture down decreases the light entering the lens, the corresponding shutter speed must be slower.

So one thing to fix the depth of field is to stop down the lens. The other is to focus on whatever is in the foreground. You would want to focus on the yellow paint receptacle. You can lock the focus on your camera by pointing the focus indicator at the intended subject, depress the shutter release part way, then recompose and shoot. In other words, the intended point of focus (the subject) does not have to be in the center of the finished picture, but it needs to be in the center when you focus. Your camera has a small oval, circle, or set of brackets to indicate where focus is determined.

Clear as mud? When school's out I'll actually have time to take some pictures to make all of this less abstract. If you have any questions, don't hesitate. This all seems complicated at first, but is actually easy to master and it fits together like a simple puzzle.
 
Pattern

At one time a reciever ran a "pattern" in football. They now run routes.

I should have taken better care of the deflated football...some of the autographs on it are, Roger Staubach, Dick Butkus, and Gayle Sayres.

DSC01231.jpg




John F
Cincinnati, OH
 
Space Hopper?

The orange one. OK I had to look that one up. No, not a space hopper. I will give you this, it stays outside all the time. Keep trying.

On the pattern one, screen covered in ice is correct, as for the pattern behind the pattern, I call close enough. It is not pine trees but regular trees covered with ice also. Very perceptive! 100 extra bonus points, but you have to split them!

thanks for the response.
 
Interesting John F

Why have the center pull left to block the end and leave the halfback on the middle linebacker. Are you setting something else up, or is that a standard play you use to run the ball a lot and you are trying to "influence block" the middle linbacker?
 
The orange one. OK I had to look that one up. No, not a space hopper. I will give you this, it stays outside all the time. Keep trying.

On the pattern one, screen covered in ice is correct, as for the pattern behind the pattern, I call close enough. It is not pine trees but regular trees covered with ice also. Very perceptive! 100 extra bonus points, but you have to split them!

thanks for the response.

Thank God for that, my second guess was going to be a kangaroo with a vacuum cleaner, leading a jazzband in a hoola contest and juggling silver foil wrapped cheese, but then I wiped my computer screen...and they all went away.
 
I was sitting on the sofa having a beer after dinner and heard my Christmas ornament spinning and thought "ah-ha! another pattern!" This was trickier to capture than I expected and I ended up setting the D10 to 'bulb' mode (shutter open as long as I keep the shutter button pressed) with a Mag-lite beamed on the ornament to illuminate it, and the flash on the camera turned on. I don't have a tripod short enough to be eye-level to the ornament, so I used a rectangular candy jar as a base to sit the camera on as I held it to focus (on Taz as he spun by) and then recompose so the whole ornament is in the frame. I hit the shutter button as Taz was face on and kept it held about 1/4 turn (a second or so - it's probably all in the EXIF information) and wa-la! Marvin the Martian is barely discerned in the port window.

IMG_0830.JPG
 
Why have the center pull left to block the end and leave the halfback on the middle linebacker. Are you setting something else up, or is that a standard play you use to run the ball a lot and you are trying to "influence block" the middle linbacker?


I think you are leaving yourself susceptible to a strong safety blitz, but I'm British and have no idea what I'm talking about. Which one is the wicket keeper?

Is the yellow frosty image a propane tank end?
 
I was sitting on the sofa having a beer after dinner and heard my Christmas ornament spinning and thought "ah-ha! another pattern!" This was trickier to capture than I expected and I ended up setting the D10 to 'bulb' mode (shutter open as long as I keep the shutter button pressed) with a Mag-lite beamed on the ornament to illuminate it, and the flash on the camera turned on. I don't have a tripod short enough to be eye-level to the ornament, so I used a rectangular candy jar as a base to sit the camera on as I held it to focus (on Taz as he spun by) and then recompose so the whole ornament is in the frame. I hit the shutter button as Taz was face on and kept it held about 1/4 turn (a second or so - it's probably all in the EXIF information) and wa-la! Marvin the Martian is barely discerned in the port window.

IMG_0830.JPG

Clearly, you are not a cat owner. Mine would devour that in the time it would take to say, Brace yourself for immediate disintegration."
 
I think John's comments here are right on. It's definitely your white balance. Color is rated in temperature. . . . Daylight is 5000 degrees, tungsten lamps are 3200 degrees, etc. In the old days, if you shot indoors without a flash (daylight film) your pics were yellow, much like your first one is. In the old days we attached a blue filter. Today, you either set your white balance to "tungsten" or take a white balance with a white card. Frankly, I rarely if ever mess with my white balance.

Insofar as the depth of field is concerned, two things:

To have a greater depth of focus, you need to have a greater depth of field. If adjustable on your camera, you need to stop down. That is, from f/8 to f/16 for example. If you don't understand these numbers, I'll give it a try. They are fractions. It's actually 1:8.0 or 1/8. Here 1 is the length of your lens and 8 (1/8) is the diameter of your aperture. It would take 8 aperture diameters to equal the length of your lens. Therefore, the larger the number (8, 11, 16, 22) the smaller the aperture and the greater the depth of field. 1/8, 1/11, 1/16, 1/22, etc.

Anytime you start messing with shutter speeds and apertures, especially indoors, you almost necessarily have to be on a tripod. Because stopping the aperture down decreases the light entering the lens, the corresponding shutter speed must be slower.

So one thing to fix the depth of field is to stop down the lens. The other is to focus on whatever is in the foreground. You would want to focus on the yellow paint receptacle. You can lock the focus on your camera by pointing the focus indicator at the intended subject, depress the shutter release part way, then recompose and shoot. In other words, the intended point of focus (the subject) does not have to be in the center of the finished picture, but it needs to be in the center when you focus. Your camera has a small oval, circle, or set of brackets to indicate where focus is determined.

Clear as mud? When school's out I'll actually have time to take some pictures to make all of this less abstract. If you have any questions, don't hesitate. This all seems complicated at first, but is actually easy to master and it fits together like a simple puzzle.

Okay, so hold down the shutter release part way, press the AWB button, adjust the focus and depth of field, hold the magi lite in my teeth, adjust the tripod, set the 123 thingy, jiggle the MSAP, switch the AF/MF, re-configure the ISO and MSET while holding the shakey hand thing in the on position...I'm guessing I should put my cup of tea down first.
 
I was sitting on the sofa having a beer after dinner and heard my Christmas ornament spinning and thought "ah-ha! another pattern!" This was trickier to capture than I expected and I ended up setting the D10 to 'bulb' mode (shutter open as long as I keep the shutter button pressed) with a Mag-lite beamed on the ornament to illuminate it, and the flash on the camera turned on. I don't have a tripod short enough to be eye-level to the ornament, so I used a rectangular candy jar as a base to sit the camera on as I held it to focus (on Taz as he spun by) and then recompose so the whole ornament is in the frame. I hit the shutter button as Taz was face on and kept it held about 1/4 turn (a second or so - it's probably all in the EXIF information) and wa-la! Marvin the Martian is barely discerned in the port window.

IMG_0830.JPG

CRAP!!!

I was just working on this one:

DSC01763.JPG
 
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