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"New" old K75 in the stable
- Thread starter DrPaul
- Start date
DrPaul
DrPaul
Not really carefully evaluated the brakes yet. The fluid is dark in both systems. The front brake works but the rear does not seem to grab at all. I plan to tackle the brakes this weekend. I imagine I may need to remove the rear caliper and force the pucks back into their bore then flush. I'm pretty experienced with brakes and have done the control and wheel circuits on my R1150RT several times. This K75 system is sooooo much simpler. Thanks for the reminder!
Paul
gregfeeler
Dances With Sheep
Pictures!
So...where are the pictures??
So...where are the pictures??
DrPaul
DrPaul
Greg,So...where are the pictures??
I tried to upload one photo last night but I received an error message that the file was too large (way too large). There is 156.3 Kb file size limit per upload. Any way around that other than to take the photos at a lower resolution?
Paul
DrPaul
DrPaul
Rear Brake MC Frozen
The rear brake MC is sludged up and piston is frozen. Will probably have to replace or rebuild. Anyone have a lead on a rebuilt MC? Beemer boneyard wants $50 just for the rebuild kit. The caliper looks good. Both pucks move freely and pads are barely worn. Also, the rear reservoir looks to be in poor condition and will likely need replacement.
Paul
The rear brake MC is sludged up and piston is frozen. Will probably have to replace or rebuild. Anyone have a lead on a rebuilt MC? Beemer boneyard wants $50 just for the rebuild kit. The caliper looks good. Both pucks move freely and pads are barely worn. Also, the rear reservoir looks to be in poor condition and will likely need replacement.
Paul
34311451863 fluid reservoir, square corners - Up to 09/1987 $19.00 list
$15.20 Chicago BMW if you want to wait a while (goes in with regular stocking orders)
$17.10 Chicago BMW if you tell them VOR (vehicle on repair) they will order it that day
M/C: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-...ryZ35604QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (for DrPaul's eyes only)
$15.20 Chicago BMW if you want to wait a while (goes in with regular stocking orders)
$17.10 Chicago BMW if you tell them VOR (vehicle on repair) they will order it that day
M/C: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-...ryZ35604QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (for DrPaul's eyes only)
DrPaul
DrPaul
Steering Head Lube?
Good morning K-bike wizards,
I'm still waiting for my mail-ordered Clymers to arrive. ITMT, I've discovered the fork turns VERY stiffly and is in need of bearing removal, cleaning and repacking. I would like to get this done while the wheels are off waiting for tires. I have the bike on a lift with the front fairing/headlamp/instrument cluster and front wheel off. The calipers are also off the fork legs. It seems that the front brake hydraulic tube that runs through the steering head may need to be removed. If so, how does it come out? If it can stay in, what is the next step in getting to the bearings? What grease is recommended?
As always, thanks for any information.
Dr. Paul
Good morning K-bike wizards,
I'm still waiting for my mail-ordered Clymers to arrive. ITMT, I've discovered the fork turns VERY stiffly and is in need of bearing removal, cleaning and repacking. I would like to get this done while the wheels are off waiting for tires. I have the bike on a lift with the front fairing/headlamp/instrument cluster and front wheel off. The calipers are also off the fork legs. It seems that the front brake hydraulic tube that runs through the steering head may need to be removed. If so, how does it come out? If it can stay in, what is the next step in getting to the bearings? What grease is recommended?
As always, thanks for any information.
Dr. Paul
gregfeeler
Dances With Sheep
You have to open the brake system to remove that pipe from the fork head. I has a "Y" at the bottom so comes out by disconnecting it from the top.
K75's have a rubber steering dampener inside the fork head. It's a rubber collar with a square waffle pattern inside which holds special silicone grease. Once you have pulled the steering stem out (from the bottom) you can remove the dampener by removing the two allen screws at either side of the fork head. BMW says to only use their special silicon grease to fill the "reservoir" spaces on the dampener.
When you put everything back together, you'll need to get the dampener aligned vertically so some of it's metal backing is exposed to the pointed ends of the allen screws. You leave the dampener loose while setting the fork bearing pre-load and only tighten the allen screws (thus "turning on" the dampener) after the preload is set.
BelRay makes an excellent high pressure water proof wheel bearing grease, but just about any good wheel bearing grease will work.
DrPaul
DrPaul
Thanks, Greg. Does the brake fluid pipe pull straight out or unscrew? Mine seems pretty snug in there and doesn't want to budge.
Paul
gregfeeler
Dances With Sheep
Once it's free at the top it should just pull out. Could be stuck with crud - maybe drizzle some WD40 down the sides?
DrPaul
DrPaul
DrPaul
DrPaul
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Still wondering if anyone has information on cleaning or testing the fuel pressure regulator. It's a $100 so would like to salvage if possible. Thanks!
Paul
Drive shaft removed without difficulty. Splines are perfect. The grease on the rear spline was a bit hardened but the front spline lube looked new. Found the Moly 60 at my local Honda shop. Should get relubed and back in today.
Still wondering if anyone has information on cleaning or testing the fuel pressure regulator. It's a $100 so would like to salvage if possible. Thanks!
Paul
monkeywork
Mad Scientist
I just love my K.
congrats!
congrats!
K
kayseventyfive
Guest
The regulator can be tested by reading fuel pressure with a tee arrangement as shown in both Clymer and Haynes. It can be cleaned by use of a good fuel cleaner, such as Red Line (my fave) or Seafoam.
On one instance, I had low pressure and did this and that, finally removing the regulator for bench testing with compressed air. My testing showed no problem, so I scratched my head and put it all back together, whereopon it ran perfectly. I can only assume that the compressed air blew out a bit of swarf from inside the regulator that was holding the poppet valve partially open.
So.............from all that, a hundred pounds of air could help you be sure it is clean. I also found the Oetiker clamps on the lines on the regulator to be loose, allowing the hoses to be easily pulled off. The fire possibilities are a little frightening there. I replaced them with NAPA fuel injection clamps, which are checked for tightness yearly, owing to the heat accumulation there in summer traffic. New hoses, too.
Did I say I worship at the altar of regular use of a good fuel system cleaner?
DrPaul
DrPaul
Fuel issues
Thanks for the advice on cleaning and testing the regulator. I will do that this weekend.
Paul
Chevron Techron Forever!
Thanks for the advice on cleaning and testing the regulator. I will do that this weekend.
Paul
gregfeeler
Dances With Sheep
Techron rocks! I always use Chevron gas, and now Texaco has Techron. I also run a tank treated richly with the Techron additive before every oil change. I've done this on all my vehicles (cars & bikes) for many years and I just never have fuel system problems.
K
kayseventyfive
Guest
Techron rocks! I always use Chevron gas, and now Texaco has Techron. I also run a tank treated richly with the Techron additive before every oil change. I've done this on all my vehicles (cars & bikes) for many years and I just never have fuel system problems.
Techron......yeah, it is popular. And pretty good, too.
Back in the late sixties or early seventies, I commuted on a Vespa GS, and it liked its carb boiled every so often. Yes, boiled. In a pan of water with some Spic and Span on the stove. Just like Grampa did to the Model T updraft carb. It went longer between boiling when I burned Chevron gas. Yes, really. The ingredient advertised was called F-310, but names are names, and usually come from the ad department. It was based on a polybutene amine and was later named Techrolene, then Techron. They had TV commercials touting how clean engines ran on it, using an astronaut and a plastic bag.
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