Motorcycle Jack Recommendation

I am looking at purchasing a motorcycle jack so I can do some work on my 1996 K1100LT this winter. (The old back ain't what she used to be).
Here is one I am looking at:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...duct_6970_200326483_200326483&issearch=148722

One thing I can't figure out as I look at the underside of my bike....where would you lift all that weight without cracking the engine case? Do you need to make brackets to bolt onto the crash bar mounts or somewhere?

Thanks for any replys.

I've never found that sort of jack secure enough to do any serious work on a BMW..

I much prefer a lift-table, with wheel clamp. If I need to R&R something rear of the the engine, a small auto jack with a suitable wood pad placed under the engine sump works to lift it - while the front is held in the wheel clamp and two tie-downs hold the bars down and the bike upright.

YMMV - but I dislike bikes falling on me.

Motorcycle jack

I just sold one similar to that one, Craftsman.
Never was able to use it.
The arms are to far apart, plus all that plastic under there.

I have a motorcycle jack similar to the one you are looking at. I lifted my K100LT to change the tires. The Bike was unstable untill I place 2x4 blocks across the jack. Wasn't too bad after that.

I imagine the K1100 would fit the jack the same as the K100.

A table would be easier to work with, but would be useless changing tires.

These jacks are great for ATVs.

Ralph Sims

With a mod, it works for ME!....

If you're still interested, I lift my K1100rs with one similar. I found that with the lower fairing off, there are 2 lugs with empty bolt holes located just forward of the center stand attachment. These are strong enough to lift on. I made a simple cross piece that bolts to the lugs, and gives me the rear jacking point to use the lift on. As most of the weight is located at the center stand, a block of wood on the pan will support the forward lift point OK. After I lift the bike, I use tie-downs to the lift to keep the bike locked in place, even though the multi-jointed lift will have some wiggle, it then feels safe. Be aware of changes to the weight center of gravity while removing things. As I removed the rear wheel, and final drive, I lowered the front tire on a wood block that was sized to still allow the lift locking feature to engage. My cross piece is a piece of 1 1/2" square tube, about 1 ft long, that has 2 bolt holes on one side, and 2 larger holes opposite them on the other side to allow the bolts through and tightened. You will also need 2 spacers between the cross tube and the frame lugs, aprox 3/4" tall. As I read this, it sounds like more than it is. It's easy, and once done it's there to use all the time. Works for ME! KC

that style jack only lifts 17 inches, not high enough to stand and work, you really need the thirty inches a lift table can provide(plus the stability) get one with the trap door for tires and your sitting great( once the bike is strapped to the lift you can even lower it and roll everything out off the way(carefully) if its going to sit for a while

Tables are wonderful

I don't expect to convince anyone that a jack is better than a table. You do need to have space to store it, and a shop big enough to use it regular. The jack just works for once in awhile jobs, like I said, it works but certainly not the best of all things.

BuddingGeezer said:

A table would be easier to work with, but would be useless changing tires.

These jacks are great for ATVs.

Ralph Sims

Click to expand...

Oh, now you tell me. For ten years I've been changing tires using my Handy (table type) lift. I never knew I couldn't do it that way.

Fronts require nothing special. Remove wheel and roll it out forward. I use a jack or block to support the front of the engine on K75s which are front heavy.

Rears are just as easy provided the bike is positioned on the lift so that the tire can be rolled back and down. The newer lifts with a drop panel for rear tire removal are nice but the panel is not really necessary if you position the bike in the right place on the lift.

PGlaves said:

Oh, now you tell me. For ten years I've been changing tires using my Handy (table type) lift. I never knew I couldn't do it that way.

Fronts require nothing special. Remove wheel and roll it out forward. I use a jack or block to support the front of the engine on K75s which are front heavy.

Rears are just as easy provided the bike is positioned on the lift so that the tire can be rolled back and down. The newer lifts with a drop panel for rear tire removal are nice but the panel is not really necessary if you position the bike in the right place on the lift.

Click to expand...

I stand corrected. However I removed both wheels from my K100LT. That only required 1 trip to have mounted and computer balanced. Might make a difference.

Ralph Sims