Connecting Gerbings

The problem is the "electronic modulation (via peak waves)" and not the power absorvation.

The Gerbing electronic modulator doesn't "comunicate" with the R1200GS electronic fuses circuit.

SO it's necessary to add an extra fused plug to use the vest.

Ciao

Daniele
R1200GS

BradfordBenn said:

Hello All-

I figure I am not the first one to hit this little problem...

The Gerbing directions say:



Today the snow and rain stopped enough to go for a ride. I read the directions on the ÔÇ£Portable Temp-ControllerÔÇØ and followed the instruction to have engine running when connecting. Went for a ride around the neighborhood and noticed I was not getting warm. The LED was not blinking on the controller. I went back home and checked the fuse for the accesory socket as the GPS had also lost power. The accesory socket fuse had blown, it is rated for 4Amps. I figured maybe I had done something wrong, and replaced it once again following the directions. Go for a test ride again and still no heat. After doing some troubleshooting, I determine that the root case is OhmÔÇÖs Law.

OhmÔÇÖs Law states that Power (or Watts) divided by Electromagnetic Force (Volts) = Intensity (Amps). I did the math with 77W and 12V and it indicates that the fuse must be rated at approximately 6.5Amps or more than 50% larger. I checked my ownerÔÇÖs manual for my R1150RT and it does indicate that the accesory socket has a 4Amp fuse.

So at the moment I am still cold. However the legs were nice and warm with the HyperTex Overpants.

Anyone else hit this problem? Is the only solution to wire it into the battery?

I figure that if the BMW vest draws 70W it must have a similiar problem.

Click to expand...

The "wire to battery" harness from Gerbing comes with a 15A fuse installed. That handles jacket liner pants liner, socks and glove liners through a Heattroler for me.

BradfordBenn said:

Anyone else hit this problem? Is the only solution to wire it into the battery?

Click to expand...

Well it isn't the only solution, but this is what has worked for me.

I wanted a single solution to "charging", "voltage monitoring" and "power" so I wired in a YUASA Battery Analyzer directly to the battery and replaced the 3A fuse with a 10A fuse...yes, the wire can more than handle it.

Now at the press of a button I can verify if my battery voltage is above or below 12.5V, or I can connect my YUASA Hot Shot 12V, 900 mA charger/maintainer (good for all types of batteries) or I can connect my heated vest...all to one outlet.

The battery analyzer connector is an SAE connector. My Heat-Troller has the same connector and I used a SAE coiled cord between the two.

I use 3M marine Velcro to attach the YUASA battery analyzer to the air filter housing when not in use.

need opinions

I need some opinions on this. Today I put my vest on for the first time and rode my bike to Indiana, Pa and back. About 65 miles round trip. Outside temp was about 30 degrees most of the time. I don't have a T-stat just an on/off switch. For the first 8 to 10 miles I didn't feel any heat but I wasn't cold. Then I had to stop at a red light and I felt the heat quite well. From there I was behind slow moving traffic for a while and was very warm. When I was able to ride at 65 to 70 again I felt no heat from the vest. When I arrived back home I wasn't cold but I was happy to get into the house.

Do you think my vest is shutting down. If so why would it restart. It can't be a blown fuse or it wouldn't work at all. Any and all ideas are welcome.

If I get a chance I'll try it again tomorrow but they are talking snow showers here.

It helps in really cold weather (<40) to have some insulation and wind barrier over the heated vest/jacket. At speeds the heat can dissipate quickly. It also helps to have little between your body and the vest. A long sleeve tee shirt works well.

Actually, at speed with the higher rpm's, you are probably producing more heat. It just goes away faster.

making sure the vest is not too loose will help too. If it pulls away from your body, it cant transfer heat very well. I also agree that wearing your insulating layer over the vest will make it warmer.

opinions

Thanks for the replies. I did wear the vest over top of my sweat shirt. As I said it was my first time. Next time I will wear a t shirt then vest then sweat shirt and jacket. I'll let you know if that makes a difference.

Thanks

screamin eagle said:

Thanks for the replies. I did wear the vest over top of my sweat shirt. As I said it was my first time. Next time I will wear a t shirt then vest then sweat shirt and jacket. I'll let you know if that makes a difference.

Thanks

Click to expand...

I wear a long sleeve t shirt under the Gerbing and that seems to work well. It also helps to distribute the heat. Then a fleece or a sweatshirt over the Gerbing.

gerbing vest

Pay attention now: It isn't often that I plead guilty to being really stupid. Just plain stupid yes, but not really stupid. Here it is. The day I rode to Indiana, I guess because of stupidity I didn't push the plug far enough into the port. Sooo the plug came out while I was riding and dragged along the roadway, causing abrasive wear on the tip. I realized the situation soon after occurrance and thought that no damage had resulted (wrong).

That brings me to the next time that I used the vest. I plugged it into the port but no light on my on/off switch. I thought the fuse had blown but after twisting and pushing on the plug the light came on. Great. vest is working. NO, as soon as I let go of the plug light goes out. Long story made short, if I pushed on the plug it would work but not on its own. Soooo, I just need to replace the end for another $15 bucks I can make it work.

Case closed

Thanks for your help, opinons, and attention.

Class dismissed

Billy

All the books are wrong......

I recently had a wiring issue (my grandkids say, "if you have an issue, get a tissue") on the R1150RS. I was wiring the Valentine and Roady2 through a relay and grabbed the wrong wires.

Result: Blown fuse. I was working with the high and low beam leads. So I went to the book to see where that circuit was fused. The book showed no fuses for the headlights.

So, before asking the list for help, I looked at all the fuses. Strange little 4A's that I'd never seen before. They all looked good, though.

Great help on this list told me that I was going to have to be better at diagnosing than I am....so off to the dealer. Turns out there was a blown fuse that my *eyes* couldn't detect. They use an ohm meter to test whether or not the fuses are blown, since they have seen some that look good that have miniscule breaks in them.

Also, the manuals that they have been given by BMW do not show the fuses in the correct places for the correct circuits. They had to go on line to a proprietary site to download a proper diagram. Not in color...in German....and not denoted clearly. They had to trace the wiring *on the diagram*.

On a "separate-butt-equal" process, I had one of these goodies from Centech in the garage that I had purchased after seeing the ad in MOAN. I must'a had a buck or two burning a hole in my pocket.

Easy mount by placing it under the rubber battery retaining strap of the battery after hooking up some big + and - wires.

Thanks to all for the "juice load" info. I'll wire the Gerbing's liner heat-troller to the Centech (Google it if ya want to). Here's what they say and a little picture:

The AP-1's compact size (3.0ÔÇØ x 2.4ÔÇØ x 1.25ÔÇØ) allows for easy installation. Once mounted, your positive and negative wire is attached between the power source (battery or relay) and the heavy power studs which will then allow the AP-1 to supply safe, fused power for up to eight individual electronic devices, including radio, GPS and other accessories up to 60 amperes.