R1100RT Leaking Fuel at Connector Under Tank

On the right underside of my tank there is a round metal plate with three metal fittings/tubes stubbed out of the plate. The metal tubes are connected to rubber hoses. Rather than hose clamps or otherwise adjustable-type clamps, the rubber fuel lines appear to be sealed over the the metal fittings with some sort of non-adjustable swaged-on metal clamp.

The forward most metal-tube-to-rubber-hose connection has begun leaking. I swivelled the swaged metal clamp around as much as I could, to see if I could crimp it more, or cut it off and putting a new clamp on. It does not appear that I can do either without removing the fuel tank. But after spinning it around, probably less than 90 degrees, and pushing the rubber hose further up the steel stub it has stopped leaking.

Does anyone have experience replacing (or tightening) these crimp on style connectors without removing the tank? Can I buy a tool to fit these connectors? I can longer get it to leak, is it likely to start leaking again if I put all the body parts back on a keep riding it?

Simular problem,maybe same.

-Earlier this year I had a gas leak on the Rt side of the gas tank also. I found that the quick disconnect connectors were leaking (cracked) with help from the Forum. A call to my BMW dealer and I was sent new male connecters (these are plastic) along with screw type hose clamps to replace the crimp style. Before disconnecting be sure to clamp the fuel line from the tank to avoid gas running out. I guess your bike will have the same type of connectors. Seems this is a common problem. Seems a bad idea using plastic here? Good luck!

Johnny Urive
04 R1150RT
02 Kawasaki KLR 650

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Did yours only leak fuel when the key was on? My 1999 RT would only leak when the fuel pump was pushing (key first on or engine running). After I moved the clamp around it seems to have stopped leaking altogether, at least temporarily.

Were you able to remove the original non-adjustable fuel line clamp, and replace it with a screw-type without removing the tank?

Did you get the replacment parts under some sort of repair bulletin, or did you purchase them?

Thanks again.

I'd bite the bullet and replace the clamp - and carefully inspect the fuel line for any deterioration which might have played a part. The crimp clamp can be replaced with a screw type clamp, though it is recommended that you use one designed for high pressure fuel injection tubing.

A fuel leak is such a huge fire hazard - especially on the RT where you can't monitor it closely.

alien_hitchhiker said:

I'd bite the bullet and replace the clamp - and carefully inspect the fuel line for any deterioration which might have played a part. The crimp clamp can be replaced with a screw type clamp, though it is recommended that you use one designed for high pressure fuel injection tubing.

A fuel leak is such a huge fire hazard - especially on the RT where you can't monitor it closely.

Click to expand...

The BMW screw type clamps are solid metal around the hose. The ones you find often are the rack screw type which the hose tries to flow thru. Try to get the solid ones.

sweeney

the leak i have is on the metal plate on the forward right side of tank. removed fairing panel,
the fuel tube connections next to the fuel injector were dry, hoses look to be in good shape.
however the brass colored pie plate appears to be leaking as i start bike and let it come to
idle but opening throtle the gas really starts to come out. do
i need to remove tank to fix and how do you remove it?

Gas Leak

All the R1100RT's are old if you have a fuel leak fix it by replacing all the fuel lines and vent line inside of the tank and outside the tank also replace fuel filter. Lots of stuff on YouTube showing how to do it lots of treads here on how to and where to get right parts again search fuel filter or fuel pump replacement

Ball said:

On the right underside of my tank there is a round metal plate with three metal fittings/tubes stubbed out of the plate. The metal tubes are connected to rubber hoses. Rather than hose clamps or otherwise adjustable-type clamps, the rubber fuel lines appear to be sealed over the the metal fittings with some sort of non-adjustable swaged-on metal clamp.

The forward most metal-tube-to-rubber-hose connection has begun leaking. I swivelled the swaged metal clamp around as much as I could, to see if I could crimp it more, or cut it off and putting a new clamp on. It does not appear that I can do either without removing the fuel tank. But after spinning it around, probably less than 90 degrees, and pushing the rubber hose further up the steel stub it has stopped leaking.

Does anyone have experience replacing (or tightening) these crimp on style connectors without removing the tank? Can I buy a tool to fit these connectors? I can longer get it to leak, is it likely to start leaking again if I put all the body parts back on a keep riding it?

Click to expand...

- Fixing leaks in this area requires removing the tank to be effective.
- Not sure exactly which line is leaking from the description but the 4 rubber hoses on the pump mounting plate are clamped on using Oetker clamps. They require a special crimper. Yes, they are pricey.
- The fact that you can spin them around means the clamp may have loosened or the rubber underneath it has deteriorated because normally if they are clamped properly it should be VERY difficult to spin them around. The two small ones near the front (internal vent and overfill drain) do not have pressure in them so being a tad loose is not a huge deal. If they are leaking and they are original this means they are at least 17 years old and should be replaced. Use the all flat clamps as suggested above, NOT the serrated screw clamp type as they chew into the hose. You don't have to use Oetker clamps although they do work extremely well and take up less space.

The rearmost two hoses which are larger are high pressure fuel lines and a leak here is a severe and potentially dangerous problem. The electric fuel pump in your RT is regulated externally to 42PSI but the head pressure at the pump can be MUCH higher. So a leak on the high pressure output side OR the Lower pressure return can leak gas at an alarming rate and must be fixed.

The quick disconnects that BMW sells are junk that do not last (IMO). The female side is OK but the male side breaks or worse, cracks and leaks can go unnoticed on an RT. I replace every one I see with these: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

Bear in mind that if the outside hoses are needing replacement you should replace in inside tank hoses as well. Make sure you use the correct R10 rated hi pressure fuel injection hose and NOT regular R9 fuel hose. R10 is rated for full immersion in fuel and won't break down in ethanol poisoned gas. R9 will.

The fact that corn works really well on your plate but sucks in your gas tank in every imaginable way has still not sunk in for whoever decided it was a good idea. I would bet real money that most corn farmers don't use ethanol laced gas in their farm equipment and small gas engines.

Here's an image of the 1150 pump mount plate which is identical to the 1100 you have so the hose names make sense.

Leak

++1 on allo of above by Happy I would also get the two large o rings that go under the fuel cap flange which comes off when you replace in tank vent hose and the plate on side of tank. Remember get hoses spec' ed for submersion in gasoline. Also mark position of plates before you remove and watch the videos you can read the instructions but much easier if you can also watch

Replace the external pressure hoses. Common for that vintage of bike to start leaking as the rubber starts to compress under the clamp.
Use 5/16" SAE30 R9 externally and SAE30 R10 internally
I replace them regularly.
The stock clamp can be removed if a small blade screwdriver is inserted in the clamp where it's crimped and levering it open from right to left.
If carefully done, the clamp can be reused.
No need for a fancy crimp tool, a pair of end cutting pliers will do the job just fine.

Over the years and miles both Voni's R1100RS and my R1150R have had those hoses replaced. Rather than use the Oetiker type clamps I used clamping style (not worm screw style) hose clamps just like BMW uses at the other ends of those same hoses.