Crush Washers

PGlaves said:

Its worth a try but be careful. The OD might matter because the machined flat on the case might not be large enough. This varies from model to model and even from year to year. Tight clearances on a final drive fill plug and an Oilhead transmission drain plug (in the little tunnel) come to mind.

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Thanks Paul.....

Oil filter alternative

bransan said:

... Now if I could just find someone other than fram that made filters to fit my bike. I am tired of buying them online.

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Bought MicroGuard filters at O'Reilly's,
# GL 10241
fits the BMW tool(!)
crossreferences on the box with purolator, wix,fram and AC Delco
MADE BY PUROLATOR
they are aboy 5 bucks...

How much do they crush?

Changed my oil this weekend so I decided to measure the new and old crush washers. This is not by any means a scientific study just 1 crush washer that has been on since last oil change under torque specified in the service manual.
Sorry all dimensions are in inches because that is the caliper I had available.

NEW USED
A .775 .795
B .640 .635
C .064 .077
D .050 .044

Since I'm 3 hours from the nearest BMW dealer, I do all my own work. I do buy spares from the nearest dealer when I stop by with a list. But if I haven't laid in the needed parts, I often use the Internet for my parts supply. I've ordered from both www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com and www.ascycles.com with quick service. I like max's online catalog a little better. I'm not suggesting these are the only reliable sources. It seems a little silly to me to go all over town looking for BMW bike parts at NAPA or Shucks, when little things can be ordered from home that fit the bike exactly. I use the car parts places for things like accessory relays, oil, fuses, and clutch/brake cleaner.

I'll occasionally pull up one of the internet Sources, and order a few oil filters, various expendable gaskets, some crush washer sets, maybe an air filter, fuel filter, and any rubber boots that might self-destruct. I usually have a set of cables on hand. For the oilhead I carry a spare alternator belt on the bike. I keep a supply of the various lubricants for my different machines, and usually have a box of sparkplugs in the appropriate ranges. I don't bother to lay in parts such as clutches or valves that might eventually be needed. I will order up a pile of specific parts about a month before I'm about to tackle an overhaul of something.

I also have a few components on the shelves, such as spare heads for the
R100, and a rebuilt transmission. I usually keep a couple of innertubes for the tube-type tires, and a set of brake pads and maybe rear shoes. I keep a few exhaust nuts and header crush washers on hand for the K1. I don't stock spare rubber hoses because I'd prefer fresh ones.

With the high fail rate of the oilhead final drives, I may even lay in a used drive for the GS. It's a lot easier to get a drive shipped to some remote location than to overhaul one on the road--if you have someone who can do the shipping.

pmdave

I am trying to understand the difference between using aluminum, copper or brass crush washers. I've heard all three recommended but I'm still at a loss. Also to order them in bulk what size are they for Oil , Trans + FD fill / drain for a 06 r1200GS. I can't find manufacturer recommended specs anywhere I've looked.
Can anyone clarify some of this?
Kindly

BlackSmith said:

I am trying to understand the difference between using aluminum, copper or brass crush washers. I've heard all three recommended but I'm still at a loss. Also to order them in bulk what size are they for Oil , Trans + FD fill / drain for a 06 r1200GS. I can't find manufacturer recommended specs anywhere I've looked.
Can anyone clarify some of this?
Kindly ��️��

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Go to this page and start looking up the crush washers you seek. Most of them have the size listed and many will also include a CU or AL notation to indicate copper or aluminum. Aluminum is generally acceptable for most crush washer locations on your bik with the exception of brake line fittings, where BMW usually specifies copper washers as they are less prone to cracking on lines/fittings that may experience torque during use.

Bulk crush washers are available from McMaster-Carr at reasonable cost and with good service.

HTH,

DeVern

GTRider said:

Go to this page and start looking up the crush washers you seek. Most of them have the size listed and many will also include a CU or AL notation to indicate copper or aluminum. Aluminum is generally acceptable for most crush washer locations on your bik with the exception of brake line fittings, where BMW usually specifies copper washers as they are less prone to cracking on lines/fittings that may experience torque during use.

Bulk crush washers are available from McMaster-Carr at reasonable cost and with good service.

HTH,

DeVern

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In reference to Brake lines:
Copper crush washers for SS Banjo fittings
Aluminum crush washers for Aluminum Banjo Fittings

Just went through this with my DRZ. Got Aluminum crush washers because I couldn’t get the factory ones. For what ever reason it would not seal on the crankcase. They work fine on the BMW , but not on my Suzuki. I ended up buying a multi pack of copper washers off Amazon for about the same money as 4 at the parts store. Since I needed some for a brake line upgrade on my car, it was a no brainer. I laid the DRZ on its side, downhill and replaced the aluminum washer with copper. Works fine. I also have washers for the frame drain too
( Dry sump )