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Thread: Bing Carbs.

  1. #1
    ENGINEROD
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    Bing Carbs.



    Ok......I changed the oils, filters, new tires, steering damper, horn, points and plugs.
    I am going to jump to the scary carbs. Where is the best place to get the rebuild kits? Any other advise before I pull them off, will be appreciated.

    Thanks Rodney

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    22,365
    I got my rebuild kits from Bing in Kansas. I think the dealer can get you a kit as well as the other suppliers around the country. I paid about $37 to my door. This is for just the gasket-oring kit. If you're doing this for the first time or correcting PO mistakes, you may also want to spring for new diaphrams, floats, needles, and jets. You might want to disassemble things and see what the exact numbers are for each component. Then you can see how well they match what was specified for the stock bike. You might also want to invest in the book that Bing sells on the carbs - about $10. It'll list the specs and give you an exploded view of the carbs along with how the carbs work.

    Work on one carb at a time. There are pieces, especially the choke mechanism, that is "handed" and only goes on one side. Take pictures of things as you remove them so you know the orientation of the parts going back on. I just did this and the choke mechanism is a little squirrely in terms of it's arrangement. Having the pictures helped me get them back on the right way.

    There are some articles here:

    http://home.jps.net/~snowbum/bingcv.htm
    http://home.jps.net/~snowbum/bingcv-2.htm

    as well as information on resynching the carbs afterwords:

    http://home.jps.net/~snowbum/synchcarbs.htm

    It took me a complete day to refurb the carbs...I was taking my time. I had a byotch of a time getting some of the smaller o-rings over idle jets and needles. I broke one of them and figured I was SOL but the dealer had some in stock. I was shocked to say the least.

    It's straightforward but be careful as there are brass parts and seats. Too much force and you'll break something.

    Kurt in S.A.

  3. #3
    ENGINEROD
    Guest
    Thanks for the good info. I am going to order the book, I normally take pictures to help me remember how things go back together. I am not in a hurry, I am on vacation until the middle of April.

  4. #4
    Grammarian no, Rider yes ISAMEMON's Avatar
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    Jun 2006
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    Kings Valley Oregon
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    1,718
    another amazing source is right here
    the ..............march 2003 ON...... is available for two bucks or so , from the main office
    it was recomended to me.....and I' ll gladly recomend it to others
    40 pictures of rebuilding BINGS
    yes there is other info out there, and you shoud get the bing book as well as the 800 page clymer book, but.........ON is right ....ON
    really
    thats what this forum is all about
    that s what this "club" is all about
    get that isue while they still have copies if your gonna own an airhead for long
    cheap reference, cheap "book"

    ok
    one more thing, well two
    go to snowbums site he has great stuff too, I printed out pages of good stuff to add to the "reference"
    Oak at the airhead site is an amazing person/reference too
    snowbum and oak are ...............living manuals

  5. #5
    Polarbear Polarbear's Avatar
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    Clovis,CA
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    4,220

    Dozens of Bing rebuilds here;

    Good pointers already said above by all.....Here are a few more tips from an experienced builder of these; Dedicate a clean table top for the job, with a good lint free towel, sheet, etc. to work on. Gas will come out, even after you think they are empty, so use a good shop table( not your dining room ). Your wife, etc will be happy! The soft towel will help keep things for rolling away and not bounce from sight on a hard surface. Use some tight fitting rubber surgical gloves to protect your paws. I have done dozens without gloves and I would do it different today. The cleaners are HARSH and our skin is not meant to handle this stuff. Two most troubling tips when taking these apart are; the chokes can go back together 180 degrees from synch and this will cause problems, very hard to diagnose! And the stack of parts that will come out with the main jets must go back the SAME way and can be easily put back wrong. Look carefully at the manual and you can do this job with ease. These parts on top of the main are occasionally stuck in place, but free'd quite easily with patience. Most folks do not take the butterflies out, but some do in a complete disaster carb, SO these are beveled along their edges, so pay close attention to their seat against the wall of the carb, when reassembly time comes. Look how they seat, "Before" you take them out and put them back the same way. Happy Trails, Randy13233 PS; Do not overtighten anything INSIDE one of these carbs, as a good snug wrench, screwdriver does NICELY. I also use WD40 a lot, when I put one back together. I like the stuff! The carb cleaners seem to really strip the metals and leave them BONE dry, so the WD40 is a nice easy touch and the internal threads love it, when reassembly is done. O rings, too! Good luck.

  6. #6
    bobh41
    Guest

    Lightbulb Some thots on Bing Carbs

    Having just gotten through my first complete Bing overhaul on my R90 - with much head scratching, re-reading the Bing manual, and a couple of complete disassemblies to re-check everything, I have a few comments to make. In my case the rebuild was seriously confounded by water in the gas and a completely blocked exhaust (mice nests).

    Read the Bing manual very carefully and understand it before you proceed. It is an excellent reference ( http://www.bingcarburetor.com) There are effectively two carbureutor circuits on each carb - a starting carb and a running carb (there is no "choke"). They must work in sync with one another to get the engine started and then to run.

    I made the dumba** assumption that the butterfly **obviously** wants to be set so it will totally close and totally open. Bad assumption. In order to transition from plain startup to run - the butterfly must be open somewhat; that is the idle setting. It must be open enough to allow transition of fuel and air flow from the starting loop, which is designed to push a lot of fuel into the cylinder. I found this out when I got my engine running about 1500 RPM (with a big fan blowing air on the engine) and I couldn't slow it down - and the exhaust headers started glowing cherry red. OOPS! One more time through the manual and now I think I understand how the carb works. I ran it this way for about four minutes, and I hope I haven't fried the exhaust valves.

    I welcome any corrections to my ideas on carb maintenance.

    I'll take it to the shop for a complete check out before I start globe hopping but I feel I have to understand the bike and how to take care of it - especially after visiting a new dealer out of state recently - who has zero parts for an airhead and little or no knowledge of them.

  7. #7

  8. #8
    Registered User 6659's Avatar
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    Jun 2005
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    Woodstock, GA
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    Just my two cents worth. I opened my carbs and took out the diaphragms and soaked the carbs and cleaned them as best as I could. Then I took one part off and replaced it with a new part. I did this for each part and cleaned the orafice before putting the new part in. No mistakes that way. I even counted the turns on the adjustable screws.

  9. #9
    Focused kbasa's Avatar
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    Marin By God County, California
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    I like to have an old muffin pan around to keep all the little pieces organized.
    Dave Swider
    Marin County, CA

    Some bikes. Some with motors, some without.

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