Replacing front master cylinder

Has anyone out there done this my bike has heated grips and i cant see how to remove it to get the master cylinder to slide off the bar without destroying the heated grip please help
Thanks in Advance
Mike Urick
43500

Master Cylinder

Mike, why are you taking off the master cylinder? Is the master cylinder leaking?
Mine started leaking after flushing the brakes and was able to tear it a part and rebuild with a new piston without having to take it off the handelbars.

Which bike model (hint, fill out your profile)? If its got the old-style K75/100 master cylinder, you can detach the master cylinder from the handlebar assembly without too much trouble, and don't even have to touch the grips.

If its a K1100, then its a bit more work.

Hi, Mike,
If you aren't aware of it, BMW now is selling rebuild kits for the K1100 and R1100 (they're the same) front master cylinders. It is a 20mm master cylinder. Mine was very rough and grainy and the piston was misshapen. I removed the old piston, honed the cylinder with a brake cylinder hone (fine grit stones), cleaned it up and replaced the piston. So far (3 months), no leaks and it works fine. To replace the master cylinder, you have to remove the throttle which is more difficult because of the heated grips. To rebuild the master cylinder, I loosened and rotated the grip on the handlebar a few degrees, then did everything with it in place. All the Best!

Heated grip removal?

I am going to do a handlebar change, and would be interested in any advice on removing the heated grips on my K75/2. With other bikes, I have used heat to softent the grips and glue, but I would suspect that this one has heat-resistant glue.

Kayseventyfive said:

I am going to do a handlebar change, and would be interested in any advice on removing the heated grips on my K75/2. With other bikes, I have used heat to softent the grips and glue, but I would suspect that this one has heat-resistant glue.

Click to expand...

If they are factory heated grips, there are two screws holding the left one on, and the right one is secured to the throttle assembly by a tab on the top cover (under the big Phillips screw). No glue removal required.

Before trying to remove the grips, lift the fuel tank and find the connector for the heated grips and disconnect them. You should have enough slack to slide the throttle grip off the bar without breaking the wires. If needed, tie a string to the wires so that you can pull them back through the bars whem assembling.