How to tell worn shocks

I have read about many replacing shocks with this brand and that. This makes me wonder how to tell if the shocks need replacement. Is there something in the handling or the ride? My '97 R11RT is coming up on 46,000 miles on the clock.

Greetings. The first indication I get that my shocks need replacement are that they will show signs of leakage of damping fluid. The next indication might be that your bike does not seem to handle as well now as when you bought it, even after you've made adjustments to the shock (if it has adjustment for damping rate). Otherwise, many riders change shocks from OEM to custom shocks to suit their riding style. JMO

i'd say the answer to this is "when you don't like the way they feel anymore"

some people dump the stockers right away

others do it with 100,000 miles on the bike

my bike has 33K on it now and i'm thinking about ditching the stock shocks this winter

as mentioned above, the bike doesn't feel as tight as it did when newer

Hi,

This is by no means a technical answer as to when your shocks are worn out. Just a seat of the pants and observations answer.

Shocks like other parts of the bike have wear out dates or accumulated miles.

Some shocks (companies) are better than others, but that doesn't mean they last longer, just work better.

Ohlins suggests you rebuild their shocks at 20-30K Kilometers for optimal performance. Most American rebuild centers will recommend for a street use bike with Ohlins that they be rebuilt no later than 40K miles. (Which is substantially longer than what Ohlins recommends).

Ohlins are highly machined and specially built to customer specifications. You get what you pay for. So are the other top suspension makers (Works, Wilber's, etc.)

Showa (stock) are really mass produced parts on an assembly line that go through a spot check and then installed. They are typically set up for a certain segment of society and the bike they are going to be fitted to. (That society is a 150-170 pound person.) They also don't last as long due to size and quality of materials, IMHO about 20K miles (30K km).

So when are they worn out? At about 20,000 miles; when they feel bouncy or soft or transmit sharp edges to your hands; when they leak anything, or become clunky. When you notice that the back tire starts to skid more than it did awhile back while stopping, or the front end tends to dive more when braking. When they start to deflect over small irregular road surfaces like BOTDOTS and edge traps. When you go over that speed bump at the local market and it bottoms out.

Less visible but more importantly is what are the ÔÇ£BushingsÔÇØ doing? After market companies use Polyethylene plastics because they work better and last longer. They are tighter in the attachment points so the shock can work better in the action parts (valving). Stock shocks use ÔÇ£RubberÔÇØ that wears out quickly becomes hard and loose allowing a lot of slop to develop between the shock and the mounting bolts. If you are hearing or feeling a ÔÇ£bangingÔÇØ sensation this is the location. And your shocks are not performing to their best.

As you can see IÔÇÖm a big proponent of ÔÇ£QualityÔÇØ suspension. I think itÔÇÖs the most important item you can change on your motorcycle for enjoying it and staying in control of it. It really is what is keeping you connected to the road.

Everyone runs out and buys an exhaust pipe to go faster when it already goes faster than most people can; legally speaking or not.

Shocks keep me in control. And, the best shocks really make the whole bike work better. Steering, stopping, cornering, going faster...

JMHO
YMMV

Doc

(EDIT: I'd be remiss if I did not say that some manufactures or certain models of bikes come with the best after-market shocks as stock (OEM), but you know up front and you are paying for them on top of the base price. So when I refered to stock above I was referring to Showa's and KYB (Japanese or 'made in China' shocks).

Thanks for the information. Nevertheless, I don't have much of a frame of reference for handling because I bought the bike in early June with 40,400 miles on it. This gives me only 6,000 miles of exposure to its handling. I had noticed that it seems to hit some of these road obstacles hard: the metal plate on the road, pavement scars, moguls in the road, shallow potholes. I generally ride solo with the preload set for solo. At 195 pounds, I am a bit out of the 140-170 pound range. I run the Bridgestones at 31/36.

I was suitably impressed with the cost of replacement shocks. I don't mind the expense for things such as brakes, tires, and shocks because of their importance in safe handling. I was trying to find some sort of benchmark.

If mine are marginal, I don't want to have them be on the way out while trying to introduce my wife to riding as passenger. If I add her to the back and she experiences the rear squirming, it may bode ill for two up riding. Of course, she has been talking about her own bike, so this may not be a problem.

I may have to simply pay more attention to how the bike handles, and try to decide from there. But the original shocks at 40,000 miles might be information enough on its own.

Your toe sticks out of the end...

Ooops I thought that said "How to tell worn socks". English is so tricky...

I was in your situation a few years ago with my 1995, R1100RS. I had bought it new but it was up to 44K. The shocks seemed OK. There wasn't any leaks or bad behavior like wallowing, pogoing, or bottoming.
But I have heard how the stock shocks are not very good when new much less over 40K. I reasoned that mine must be pretty bad and convinced myself they wore out gradually over four years which is why I didn't notice it occuring. So I ordered new Works shocks, installed them and went for a ride over a choppy road. I could feel *very* little improvement almost none. And this is comparing worn to new on the same day. So my stock shocks were still working.
Racers and some street riders may feel the differences. My advice FWIW? Save your money unless they are leaking, you need heavier springs, or you can feel them degrading. The Works units were well made and I have no gripe with them other than the $800 or so that I really didn't to spend.
Rick

chfite said:

I run the Bridgestones at 31/36.

Click to expand...

Those pressures seem a little on the low side. Not sure what size tires you're running, but have you checked Bridgestone's fitment chart for your bike (not the owner's manual)?

Two more ways of telling

My stock shocks seem to bottom out at about 70, 000 miles. The dealer told me they were fine.

My shocks were not leaking but they told me in two ways not mentioned by anyone else in this thread that they needed replacing.

Putting the bike on the centre stand required Herculian strength, difficult for my 5'7" and 145 pounds. My lower back still sometimes aches from all of the heavy lifts.

The other trick that my shocks would play was having the rear end of the bike jump after parking it.

Whenever the bike went to the dealer, they would leave outside for awhile before bringing it inside. By then the shock would release and feel normal to them. However, immediately after a ride, it was often impossible for me to lift.

chfite said:

I run the Bridgestones at 31/36.

I.

Click to expand...

Try about 36 and 40 and see how that feels.

chfite said:

I have read about many replacing shocks with this brand and that. This makes me wonder how to tell if the shocks need replacement. Is there something in the handling or the ride? My '97 R11RT is coming up on 46,000 miles on the clock.

Click to expand...

Chris,
Read this article and check your preload adjustment.
http://www.seatrider.org/techntips/rear shock preload.htm

Pictures:
http://members.cox.net/slartidbartfast/bmwfix/shock-oil/shock-oil.htm

I took the hit and purchased a pair of Ohlins for my 97 1100rs. I did this before I rode out to Spokane. It was like riding a new bike.
A friend of mine was riding his 1100rs down in Ohio. He had about 30,000 on the stocks and went into a handlebar slap. Luckily he did not lay the machine down but, he did som off roading before stopping.
If you plan on keeping your machine for any length of time. Buy some Ohlins shocks. You will be impressed.

Take Care & Ride Safe
Pat Carol

Work's shock!!

I bought my 99R11RT new and after 18K ordered a new set of Work's shocks. I had previously planned on replacing them around 20K from the recommendation of long distance riders. When they incrediable, like having a new bike... You need to remember that the new shock is build for your weight and the type of riding you do... a custom build... I send it off about 2 or 3 years to get rebuild, but I ride a lot too...

You are ready, weather you know it or not... the stock shocks are build for the masses and are "cheaply" and definately not custom... just like a seat... 2 modifications that really need to be make to "customize" your bike to you... no 2 people have the same riding needs or "butts"... Good luck...

My 1150rt had about 16,500 miles when I got it about a month or so ago, and I've put about a thousand miles on it, and it feels fine to me. I'm obviously no expert, but I can say that a mechanic with a lot of BMW experience told me they "all" go at about 24,000 miles.

What should I get?

My 1100 rt has over 43k on it. I think a new rear shock could make a great improvement. Any suggestions as to a particular brand.

You will get a variety of answers depending on who owns what brand. I have Wilbers, my buddy has Ohlins. We each like them and neither is better than the other. If you go with a name brand you can't go wrong. Just make sure that the shocks you get are built for your weight, bike, load and riding style.
For me it was more a price point as I got a good deal on the Wilbers. If enough people buy shocks, a group buy can be organized for a better price.
Just my 0.02 cts YMMV

The purpose of a shock is to keep the wheels on the ground and control the movement of the vehicle as it responds to the pavement.

The simplest way to check your shocks is to ride over a big swell in the pavement. A good shock will eliminate the up and down motion of the bike in one cycle. If you go a couple, you're dampers (the part of the shock with the oil in them) are probably toast.

With 45K or so on yours, chances are good that they're done for.

Thanks guys. I have yet to decide if I am going to keep this bike. I "replaced" it last Nov with a 12rt, but for some reason the 1100 has not left the garage yet. My dealer, Max BMW deals with Ohlins. I should start there.
This might mean a new thread, but to keep the bike I thought about strippin all the fairings but the dash, windshield and headlight area, canning the gas tank and adding a steel tank. Wonder if a R tank would fit the frame? Street fighter/track bike?? Just a thought.

Or my son says just to trade it for a GS. Pretty hard to get much for a '96 RT. Regardless, If I keep it, the suspension needs work.

is it related?

i have a 1996 r1100rt, i've been reading lately that alot of riders have the problem of the bike pulling hard to right and wearing the front tire down fast. mine does too, the front tire wears fast on left side while right side almost looks new, could this wear pattern and pulling be from bad shocks or worn out paralever bushings? any help appreciated.