NGK Plug Caps

SPLINELUBE · Aug 17, 2006

Has been so long since I installed plug wires and caps on my /6 have forgotten; is it necessary or recommended to remove some of the outer black rubber before installing the spark plug wires into the NGK caps? Or can the entire wire be pushed onto the contact spike without ang cutting/mods. Thanks

ISAMEMON · Aug 17, 2006

thanks for bringing up the subject
just today I noticed that the right side plug cap slides on and off real easy, so is the NGK cap the way to go, is that the normal replacement or should I look at all new wires,

flash412 · Aug 17, 2006

Cut about 3/8" off the end of the plug wire. Then screw on the new cap.

SPLINELUBE · Aug 17, 2006

NGK plug caps

I am more than a little dense: 3/8 inch cut off the entire end of the ignition wire or just the black rubber sheath.

Bill Burke · Aug 17, 2006

Those that haven't done new plug wires and/or new caps before may not be aware of this: the plug caps just screw on and off the wires. The caps have a pasta-like squiggly brass screw in them that makes contact with the wire inside the insulated "plug wire" when you screw the plug cap onto the new wire. I would have to assume that the prior poster meant to suggest you cut a little off the end (insulation and all) just to "freshen up" and make a clean break prior to screwing on the new plug cap. With regard to wire length, longer is better: You can always cut more off, but you can't add more later. This is important if you use the shorting method and forgot that you need a little more length in the wire to fit it over the end of the spoke...

Tip: If you're installing new ngk wires, make sure you get 'em plugged ALL THE WAY into the coils. Press harder than you think. When they really seat, you'll know.

pmdave · Aug 17, 2006

Take your wire cutting pliars and snip off the entire end of the flexible wire thingy, especially including the center wire. That exposes cleaner wire to the screw on the NGK cap.

Be sure the NGK caps are 500 ohm resistor type, right angle shape, short.

Before screwing the caps onto the wires, remove the rubber boot thingy, lubricate with WD-40, and slide onto the flexible wire thingy. Then, after the cap is screwed on, slide the rubber boot thingy back down to cover the end of the NGK cap--hopefully to keep out water, dirt, and spooge*.

*right coast translation of left coast "gorp", or "crud".

pmdave

flash412 · Aug 17, 2006

pmdave said:
Take your wire cutting pliars and snip off the entire end of the flexible wire thingy, especially including the center wire. That exposes cleaner wire to the screw on the NGK cap.

That part is right.

> Be sure the NGK caps are 500 ohm resistor type, right angle shape, short.

5000 ohms (5K), not 500. Airheads are better off with 1k if you can find them. But 5k NGK is MUCH better than stock. Dunno about the later model bikes. But I would assume that 5k NGK will work just fine.

Rod Sheridan · Aug 18, 2006

The Boyer Digital Ignition requires a 5,000 ohm spark plug cap, lower resistance plug caps can result in ignition damage.

When you fit the spark plug cap to the wire, and the cap to the sparkplug, place a light smear of silicon dielectric grease just inside the plug cap cavities to keep water out, and to prevent the cap from seizing onto the sparkplug.

On an annual basis, measure the cap resistance to be sure it's aproximately 5,000 ohms, I've had a couple that went to a high resistance state ( over 20,000 ohms).

Regards, Rod.

flash412 · Aug 18, 2006

RODSHERIDAN said:
On an annual basis, measure the cap resistance to be sure it's aproximately 5,000 ohms, I've had a couple that went to a high resistance state ( over 20,000 ohms).

The crap metal ones that BMW OEM'd from Beru have been measured at over a mega-ohm in a bike that was still running. A WIDE range of symptoms can be caused by crap plug caps. That is why anybody with trouble starting, bad mileage, bad plug readings, surging, stalling or anything else that has the remotest possibility of being spark related should junk the "BMW" caps and install NGKs. NGKs are pretty much permanent, unlike the crap stock ones.

Tip: Dielectric grease is sold in condom-like packets at cheapo cage bits stores as "Bulb Grease."

JOHNP · Aug 18, 2006

Is this discussion also for /7 models?

I still have the OEM plug wires/caps on my '84 R100. Are there NGK replacements for them as well?

28796 · Aug 18, 2006

Since all Airheads are at least 10 years old I'd recommend new wires & the NGK caps. If you are running a Boyer MicroDigital or the factory electronic ignition you need the 5000 ohm caps. The 1000 ohm caps are fine for points & most bike shops sell the NGKs or buy them with new wires from Rocky Point Cycles website.

JOHNP · Aug 18, 2006

bikpaintr said:
Since all Airheads are at least 10 years old I'd recommend new wires & the NGK caps. If you are running a Boyer MicroDigital or the factory electronic ignition you need the 5000 ohm caps. The 1000 ohm caps are fine for points & most bike shops sell the NGKs or buy them with new wires from Rocky Point Cycles website.

Great, thx.

25094 · Aug 19, 2006

Plug caps.

Japanese NGK caps are not allowed on BMW's.

TONY · Aug 19, 2006

So what wires and caps did we decide on here? Cause I need to buy some for my 92GSPD.

flash412 · Aug 19, 2006

25094 said:
Japanese NGK caps are not allowed on BMW's.

From your owners manual: "Aftermarket komponentz are VERBOTTEN becauz zey cost zignifigantly less und zey depriff der Korporation from ze rightful profitz! Zey vill also depriff ze dealerz from zerviz revenuz!"

ISAMEMON · Aug 19, 2006

25094 said:
Japanese NGK caps are not allowed on BMW's.

But they will go good with my NGK plugs

lkchris · Aug 19, 2006

25094 said:
Japanese NGK caps are not allowed on BMW's.

Cheapest thing on a BMW ... .

SPLINELUBE · Aug 19, 2006

Here I go again

Thanks for the advice on the plug wires and caps. I installed the new wires/caps/and borowed coils thinking that was the reason for the ignition cutting out. Well just took the old girl out for a spin and well I hope she appreciates the two mile push home in 88 deg. because that wasn't the problem after all. So I will start a new thread for adice. Once again thanks to all you folks.

ISAMEMON · Aug 19, 2006

electonic ignition or points
if points and condensor, sounds like condensor, heating up and die until cool
electronic ignition, I have no clue, other then the control boX, back in the olden days, the control box was the issue of your symptoms, especially on dodge adn chrysler police cars that were run hard and hot
my answers are not based on problems with BMW motorcycles, but wrench turning on old british and german cars with points and condensors, and the two years as a chrylser parts man in the 70's
havent had the problem with the bike
and I dont know what all problems come with the diode board, still learning these bikes

sorry about the push home

pmdave · Aug 19, 2006

The NGK "spark plug resistor cover" (capuchon D'allumage antiparasite) I'm looking at has LB05F on the box. It's 90 degree.

Any spark plug wires that fit the coils and cap will work. I like the silicone jacketed, copper center wires from the auto parts store.

And Flash was correct that the resistance is 5K ohm. Just checking to see if you were awake, Flash.

I've seen a BMW cap on an oilhead burn out the resistor, and lose spark on that side. I've had stock BMW caps start to fail--the symptom is that side losing spark at idle, but kicking in at a higher RPM. I can't remember an NGK cap failing, but I suppose I ought to change them every 10 years or so, eh?

pmdave

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