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Questions about a 1970 R60/5

FrankF

New member
This is my first post, so hello to everyone. I am new to this board, so I hope I'm in the right place. Here's my story:

I have a 1970 R60/5 in reasonably good condition. It hasn't been on the road in years however. The bike was bought new by my Dad. I inherited it when he passed away a few months ago, and it has now become my project. I have taken some detailed pictures of it, which I will post when I get home, but as I said, it seems to be mechanically sound.

Yesterday I began fooling around with it. I first removed the Windjammer fairing, which I just don't find attractive. I know it has its practical purposes, but it's not for me. I didn't mess with the headlamp at this point - that'll come later. After removing the fairing, I decided to go ahead and check the carbs. I downloaded a good tech article on rebuilding carbs from 5United.com, so I felt like I had enough information to at least get started. I started out by draining the tank, which was 3/4 full. I'm concerned that the tank may have some significant rust issues. Again, I'll deal with that later, though any suggestions on how to handle this would be greatly appreciated.
So, I removed both carbs and inspected them to find that they were perfect! No gunk, no grime - perfectly clean. I now suspect that Dad cleaned them up back when he was still able to get around. Anyway, I do need some fuel line, as the lines on both sides were completely rotten. At the moment, that's as far as I gotten - I have both carbs off of the bike and that's where I've left it for now. I do need a gasket kit for the bowls (anyone recommend a good parts dealer?), but otherwise, I think I'm in good shape.

I also discovered that the tires are showing substantial cracking, to the point that new rubber is a must before taking this thing out. Could anyone recommend a good, reliable (and not too expensive) tire for the R60/5? As I noted, I'll post some pics later and provide some updates as to how the project is going. I hope to get some input and advice from those of you who have experience with these early bikes, as I am a novice at this sort of thing. I'm not the mechanic my Dad was, and now I find myself faced with a project that demands a level of technical expertise that I may not possess. Regardless, I intend to get this bike road-worthy again, so I'll most likely be pestering the hell out some of you throughout this adventure. Thanks in advance for any advice, tips or just general encouragement. More to come...

Frank
 
FrankF said:
I have a 1970 R60/5 in reasonably good condition. It hasn't been on the road in years however.
...
I first removed the Windjammer fairing, which I just don't find attractive. I know it has its practical purposes, but it's not for me. I didn't mess with the headlamp at this point - that'll come later.
...
I'm concerned that the tank may have some significant rust issues. Again, I'll deal with that later, though any suggestions on how to handle this would be greatly appreciated.
...
So, I removed both carbs and inspected them to find that they were perfect! No gunk, no grime - perfectly clean. I now suspect that Dad cleaned them up back when he was still able to get around. Anyway, I do need some fuel line, as the lines on both sides were completely rotten. At the moment, that's as far as I gotten - I have both carbs off of the bike and that's where I've left it for now. I do need a gasket kit for the bowls (anyone recommend a good parts dealer?), but otherwise, I think I'm in good shape.
...
I also discovered that the tires are showing substantial cracking, to the point that new rubber is a must before taking this thing out. Could anyone recommend a good, reliable (and not too expensive) tire for the R60/5?
The headlight SHOULD pop out of the Windjammer and fit the stock headlight shell.

http://www.bingcarburetor.com/ for gasket set.

Check with http://swmototires.com/ for tires. CALL (with your tire sizes) and see what they recommend for your bike. Replace the tubes, too.

Visit a BMW dealer and buy one meter (or a yard, whichever the parts guy can figure out how to sell you) of fuel line. There is supposed to be a crossover between the airbox and the transmission with a couple of T's between the petcocks and carbs. Install all that stuff.

If I were you, I would get two of the $3 sintered bronze fuel filters that dirt bikers use and install one after each petcock. I would change the tires & tubes, install a new battery and take the thing for a ride around the neighborhood, just to see if there is anything else wrong with it.

I would come home and drain the engine oil and remove the filter, drain the transmission, rear end and swingarm. Replace all the oils (and the filter). Maybe even change the fork oil (use 10wt), too.

THEN I would ride it around and around the neighborhood until it was good and hot. Repeat this a couple of times.

Check the valve clearances (cold) and take a look at the air filter, possibly replace it. Take a look at the points, maybe replace them and the condensor if warranted. Check the timing.

Grease the swingarm and steering head. Maybe repack the wheel bearings as that gives you an opportunity to look at the brakes.

After that... you're good to go. Ride it. Look for a replacement tank on eBay. If you happen to need a yellow-copper toaster for it, I have one in my attic in excellent condition.
 
Flash412,

Thanks for the great reply! I was talking to a friend at lunch about the bike and we both came to the conclusion about adding the fuel filters. Regarding the headlamp, I was thinking that this might be a good time to upgrade. I have an old Porsche 911 ('79) as well - one of the standard upgrades for a car of that era is new headlamps - the originals just don't provide enough light. I kinda figured that the original BMW lamps would also be weak in comparison to today's lamps.

This To-Do list will definitely get me well on my way. Again, thanks for taking the time to provide such a thorough response. Take care,

Frank
 
Be careful on the upgrade to the headlight and consider what the wiring can handle. There's been quite a bit of discussion on the Airhead list about this...wiring sizes, use of relays, etc. That stuff goes over my head. I've got a Halogen bulb in my Luftmeister headlight...it's been so long I don't remember if the bike originally came with an incandescent bulb or not...I don't even know the wattage of the current Halogen. Maybe someone on these lists can set us straight on what the right approach is.

Kurt in S.A.
 
Welcome to the fun

Hey Frank
That sounds like a sweet old bike. Be advised that the headlight is pretty well mated with the charging system. It is easy to overload the system with modern lights and gadgets. (Upgrades are available in lighting and with the charging system.) Your bike sounds like it is pretty much original. There is a resale advantage in keeping it as original as possible. My 1982 airhead is much altered (for rideability) so I am not exactly a purist, but rather a voice of caution: if you try to make an old bike "better" than new it is an expensive uphill journey where you will never recoup your expenses. The old girl has her charms when everything works as new and you may wish to embrace that. If you want to make it a cafe custom or new-it-up to suit your needs go on ahead (it is just a motorcycle, not the Sistine Chaple) Just realize you lose resale value when you deviate from the original design. During your restoration don't scrimp on brakes or tires (In my humble opinion) good tires and good brakes are more valuable than they are expensive.

Send pics. we love that stuff :thumb
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I didn't think about the wiring issues. That's a good point. Come to think of it, it really isn't very likely that I'll ride the bike at night. I'll primarily use it for short day trips.

Bob,

I completely agree with you. I don't want to alter the bike or try to make it into something it's not. I prefer it in its original condition - I too appreciate the charm of older vehicles. I only thought about upgrading the headlamps for safety reasons, but otherwise, I just want to get her cleaned up and running. She's got plenty of character and has been in the family a long time. By the way, she's only got 26,000 miles on her! I'll post those pics in a bit. Thanks again.

Frank
 
By the way, the tank on my /5 is one of the "toasters" - is this correct for a 1970? I thought toasters came along later??? Could someone lead me to a pic of a period-correct tank? Thanks.

Frank
 
FrankF said:
By the way, the tank on my /5 is one of the "toasters" - is this correct for a 1970? I thought toasters came along later??? Could someone lead me to a pic of a period-correct tank? Thanks.
Toaster tanks started with the dawn of the /5. But most early bikes were sold with the bigger "touring" tank, that had big rubber knee pads. It was later that they added the chrome battery covers to /5. If the bike has not battery cover mounts, then it is correct NOT to have the side covers. The chrome sidecovers made the "toaster" tank a more attractive selection to some folks.

BTW, "toaster tank" did not become a popular term in the vernacular until well into the /6 era.
 
I have experienced reliability troubles with a variety of high intesity (HID) lamps in my /5's, including a very expensive PIAA element that only lasted 6 weeks.
I have since re-fitted the OEM type parts.
 
Hey Frank,

Welcome aboard. You might want to fill out your profile so folks know where you live. You'll get some great suggestions about where to look for parts and may find someone knowledgable in your area that can give you a hand.

:thumb

:buds

dave
 
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flash412 said:
There is an H-4 kit for /5 available. Try Blue Moon... http://www.bluemooncycle.com/.

This brings up a good point. I'm not sure how you guys feel about posting past experiences with retailers. I certainly don't want to jeopardize anyone's business, but the experience I have had with Blue Moon cycles left alot to be desired. My Dad and I drove 4 hours to take a look at a frame to replace a bent one on a 1978 R/100. When we got there, the frame was not as described and we were essentially dismissed. I couldn't believe the attitude we were met with. Oh, they have plenty of nice bikes for sure, but the customer service aspect was completely missing. In fairness, this was many years ago. I'm sure things could have changed. But the experience left a sour taste in my mouth for Blue Moon. YMMV....
 
A few notes from the pictures; The front turn signals on the fairing are OEM for the bike and should fit up perfectly. The flat front lense looks right but I can't tell for sure from the view. Does it say Bosch on the bottom embossed inside? The rubber cover on the empty headlight shell is nice because it keeps grime out of the wiring. However, I experienced a loss of paint when I pulled the tape holding it in place on the second /5 I ever bought. The Vetter I removed from that bike had a sealed beam, but the original owner had saved the headlight assembly. I was lucky on that one. You MAY experience difficulty getting the carbs to seal up on the intake spigots on the heads. A carbeuretor manual from Bing Agency is a good thing to have for reference. All in all, it looks like a complete if not grungy old bike. Congratulations and enjoy.
 
Congratulations:

Although you do have a project, it looks together and I'm sure that you will enjoy it more when it's on the road since it was you Dad's bike. A few observations from the pictures:

1. Don't ride this bike on these tires.
2. The front fender appears to be other than stock, not meant as a critisism.
3. The rear shocks appear to be leaking oil indicating replacement required.
4. The stock headlight on a Vetter Windjammer was a 7 inch size compatible with the U.S. cars at the time and would not fit the /5 headlight nacelle. I recommend getting a /5 H4 conversion (which I have on mine).
5. The chrome side covers started in '72 model year, just an observation.
6. The gas tank with the pin stripes around the chrome panels is an indication it came from a 73 1/2 long wheel base model (which mine did).
7. Re-build those carbs. the good news is you're float bowls look in good shape. Also, replace the rubber sleeve beteen the intake tube and carb and the fiber sleeve between the carb and head (inside the barb body). Buy the manual from the Bing Agency to assist in the re-build.
8. Based on the dark color of the carb floats, I'd replace them. The stock color was an off-white and made from a fiberglass material that absorbed alchohol. The dark color is an indication of absorbing alcholhol from gasoline. Alchohol proof float kits are available from the Bing Agency.

You'll have a lot of fun getting it back on the road not to mention when you're done
 
FrankT,

Thank you for your post. Now that you mention it, I seem to recall something about the front fender having been swapped out a long time ago. I should note that the pinstriping does not appear to have been a factory job - I think it was done after my Dad received the bike. The lines are not very consistent. I'm just not sure.

I am certainly going to change out the tires. The front LOOKS okay, but the back is cracked and deteriorated. I'll replace both to be safe. I'll also replace the floats as you suggested. Regarding the shocks, it doesn't appear to me that they are leaking, but I'll give them a close inspection. At the moment, I am going through the first stage of a home renovation, so the bike project is temporarily on hold. Nonetheless, I'll go ahead and order the replacement parts, including the new H4 headlight assembly.

Again, thanks to everyone for the great advice. In a couple of weeks I'll be able to dedicate my attention to the bike and hopefully begin to get it back to roadworthy condition.

Frank
 
Frank,

You are going to enjoy getting that /5 going again. Just a couple of things I noticed was:

The rear turn signals are not OEM

The handlebar mounted mirrors are not OEM

As far as the headlight goes, you can still purchase a complete assembly for around $170-200 from BMW.

I redid a '72 R60/5 last winter that also had a windjammer faring. It had to go!

My /5 is posted in the "show us your airhead" thread if you need some visual guides.

Good Luck! :thumb
 
One last thing,

The fork gaiters on your bike appear to be 11 rib the OEM were 13 rib. The 11s usually stretch and crack faster than the 13s. The 13 cost about twice as much as the 11 rib. DAMHIK


I put new 13s on mine.
 
I'm working on a R75/5 which is similar to the R60/5. You have already mentioned being familiar with the 5-united website. Another resource that you may wish to consider is the Airhead BMW Club (ABC). See:
http://www.airheads.org/

There is an active mail-list (different from this forum) for the airheads run from the micapeak server. See:
http://www.micapeak.com/mailinglists/
http://www.micapeak.com/mailinglistroundup
http://www.micapeak.com/lists/airheads

Technical information can also be found other places. Each month the ABC puts out a newsletter (called AirMail) that contains a tech article by Oak, one of the airhead gurus. The tech articles are worth the $20 per year membership fee for the ABC.

Oak has written or helped write a number of tech articles published by the Chicago BMW Club. To order see:
http://www.crbmw.org/ChiTech.htm

Another guru is Snowbum, who has a website with many articles. See:
http://pweb.jps.net/~snowbum/techindex.htm

Anton Largiader services BMWs in the Virgina area. He has a website with some good info. See:
http://www.largiader.com/

Duane Ausherman has a good website (particularly regarding wheel bearings!) and he sells some handy shims for those bearings. See:
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/index.htm

Many of the gurus don't care for the Clymer or Haynes books on airhead maintenance, preferring instead the factory manual. I find that the Clymer and Haynes books contain photos useful in first time work. The issue that the gurus have with Clymer and Haynes are errors that can cause a novice mechanic to damage his bike. I usually read all sources of info, including cited internet sources before undertaking complicated jobs for the first time. Be aware also that the factory manuals have some errors, particularly in the conversion of torque values from metric to "American" values.

I think that good prices on new Haynes and Clymer manuals are found at JC Whitney. See:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...01/showCustom-0/N-111+600014511+10211/c-10111

Ed Korn makes all sorts of neat tools for airheads - some of these tools are essential for certain jobs (i.e., working on the transmission). He has a few videos that can be helpful if you are working without the benefit of a nearby guru or other knowledgeble individuals. And if you buy his tools you will help make Ed fabulously rich. :) See:
http://www.cycleworks.net/

Rick at MotorRad Elektrik has most of the good stuff related to the airhead charging system, including an excellent little book on that topic. He sells upgraded starters and charging system and other electrical stuff. See:
http://www.motoelekt.com/

I've had good luck in obtaining used stuff at fair prices from Mike at Airhead Salvage. See:
http://www.airheadsalvage.com/

I live pretty close to Re-Psycle BMW which also has used stuff at half the price of new parts. Re-Psycle also has almost everything else for an airhead in stock (including a selection of /5 bikes). I frequently will visit Re-Psycle with my digital camera to take photos during my restoration projects. Cable routing can be tricky if there isn't a template to follow. Re-Psycle also has reprints of the factory manuals. See:
http://www.re-psycle.com/

In a very few rare instances Re-Psycle has not had something that I wanted. I was able to go to Bob's BMW, motobins, or siebenrock for the really hard-to-find stuff. See:
http://www.bmwbobs.com/
http://www.motobins.co.uk/
http://www.siebenrock.com/index1.php?sprache=en

The on-line parts fiche at Max BMW is very handy. I have not yet ordered anything from MAX. See:
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.asp

Chicago BMW will apparently sell parts thru the internet at about a 20% discount. I haven't ordered anything from them, but some folks have indicated that some parts can take a while to be delivered. YMMV, see:
https://chicagobmwmotorcycle.com/2frames/2frame.html
 
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woodnsteel said:
I have experienced reliability troubles with a variety of high intesity (HID) lamps in my /5's, including a very expensive PIAA element that only lasted 6 weeks.
I have since re-fitted the OEM type parts.

Today I discovered and corrected a failed voltage regulator. Over charging.
My apologies to PIAA and anyone else for any mis-guided notion I may have imparted.
 
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