Reparing the Embedded Nuts at the Bottom of the RT/RS Fairing Lowers

[88bmwjeff]

Those of us who have RT's or RS's with the lower fairing's typically have issues with cracking (and breaking of the fairing) around the embedded nuts at the bottom of the fairing underneath the cylinders. I've got some cracking, but none have broken yet. I've been thinking about a good solution to strengthen the areas with the embedded nuts. My thought is to create sleaves to go over the fairing portion with the embedded nuts. These sleaves would be epoxied in place. I've worked through the right side, but I still have the left side sleaves to make before epoxying in place.

I went to the local hardware store and purchased some brass metal tubing, then cut them to fit as best as possible. As you can see from the photo of them removed, they are quite odd in shape. In case anyone is curious, I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the tubbing. It's hard to tell from the photos, but the top of the sleaves are just below the top of the embedded nuts. Here are some photos of what's done so far.


Lower Fairing Repair.jpgLower Fairing Sleves.png

[STEVENRANKIN]

Hey Jeff, a good idea.
LOL, on my RT, I finally declared the fairing too much of a pain to repair and found a very good used fairing online.

In the case of my fairing I really never had the issue with the lowers but know it can be a problem. Instead I had issues with the four main mounting points.

The first time one pulled out, I removed the fairing and had it drilled, and the insert fiberglass or some kind of goop that works on patching fiberglass back into place. I did the same with two and three. The last windscreen change found the holes too big for the rivets to fit and so it got the fiberglass treatment with the holes all predrilled.

If the current fairing has an issue, I will certainly like to know how you made out using your method. It looks like it will be less of a mess and work just as long as the factory system. St.

[skibum69]

My fairing was cracked both sides on my new to me RS. I fixed both of them with JB Weld and it worked just fine. Your sleeving looks nice but that not the part of it that I see as being weak, it's where those posts are mounted to the base. I it were me I'd put a nice bed of JB Weld around the base of your sleeves.

[Omega Man]

My experience has been with any of these types of repairs, embedding some fiberglass mat improves the results.
The embedded fiberglass mat helps distribute the load stress over a larger area.
OM

[88bmwjeff]

Hey Jeff, a good idea.
LOL, on my RT, I finally declared the fairing too much of a pain to repair and found a very good used fairing online.

In the case of my fairing I really never had the issue with the lowers but know it can be a problem. Instead I had issues with the four main mounting points.

The first time one pulled out, I removed the fairing and had it drilled, and the insert fiberglass or some kind of goop that works on patching fiberglass back into place. I did the same with two and three. The last windscreen change found the holes too big for the rivets to fit and so it got the fiberglass treatment with the holes all predrilled.

If the current fairing has an issue, I will certainly like to know how you made out using your method. It looks like it will be less of a mess and work just as long as the factory system. St.

Steve,
Thanks for your input. The rest of the fairing seems to be OK. It's been a while since I've removed the upper fairing though. While I haven't had a complete failure of those lower embedded bolts, one seems to be just around the corner. I'm hoping to push that failure down the road--hopefully way down the road.

[88bmwjeff]

My fairing was cracked both sides on my new to me RS. I fixed both of them with JB Weld and it worked just fine. Your sleeving looks nice but that not the part of it that I see as being weak, it's where those posts are mounted to the base. I it were me I'd put a nice bed of JB Weld around the base of your sleeves.

Skibum69, thanks for your input. I was debating on just epoxying the sleaves on vs epoxying the sleaves then reinforcing where I can at the base. It looks like the latter is a better choice.

[88bmwjeff]

My experience has been with any of these types of repairs, embedding some fiberglass mat improves the results.
The embedded fiberglass mat helps distribute the load stress over a larger area.
OM

Thanks for your input OM. I debated on using fiberglass and decided to use a metal sleave. No real scientific analysis or proof, but I thought a metal sleave would provide better strength for the thickness than fiberglass. But, reinforcing the base of the embedded nut towers will now be part of the repair. I could use either fiberglass or more epoxy, I'm leaning towards the epoxy route since it's not that big of an area.

[Omega Man]

Thanks for your input OM. I debated on using fiberglass and decided to use a metal sleave. No real scientific analysis or proof, but I thought a metal sleave would provide better strength for the thickness than fiberglass. But, reinforcing the base of the embedded nut towers will now be part of the repair. I could use either fiberglass or more epoxy, I'm leaning towards the epoxy route since it's not that big of an area.

Happy to help. The fiberglass mat will help with most any product you use. Like the wraps that reinforce a cast, drywall tape over a seam or even horsehair plaster, the fibers help reinforce and distribute the “stress” loading of the repair.
On larger repairs that are not a problem cosmetically, I will sometimes use aluminum flashing rather than a fiberglass mat bonded with the product and “Pop” rivets as space allows.

OM

[robsryder]

On my 77 R100RS I had some of the inserts in the fairing that had loosened. I used some brass inserts like those shown in the photo below (see link). The inserts were secured with epoxy and a small bit of fiberglass on the fairing's inner surface to provide strength. Still holding 20 years after doing the repair.

https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Embedm...26&sr=8-3&th=1

81vQfr9YZWS._SL1500_.jpg

[STEVENRANKIN]

It had been interesting the two lower main fairing mounts on my RS never came loose. Whereas the ones on my RT did despite using lock tight more than a few times. (I never tired red lock tight as I was afraid if I ever had to pull the faint off the bolts might not come out without breaking the fairing.).

A loose bolt and vibration do a lot to pull the threaded insert out of the fairing over time and miles.

The two bottom bolts seem to be the worst two of the four on the RT and due to the shape of the fairing can be a pain in the neck to get a wrench on.

So take a look at the mounts from time to time especially after any kind of big jolt to the bike. I hit a pothole one night (couldn't see it in the rain and with traffic) that shook the faring out of its two top mounts. Luckily I didn't damage a wheel. St.

[skibum69]

You can build up and spread around the JB Weld very easily and totally spread out the support over a large area to totally protect the bolt mounts. Mine was pretty much a quick and dirty job but it's fine for me.

[STEVENRANKIN]

LOL, I have forgotten the name of the product my friend Glenn used to fix my fairing the few times the inserts pulled out. I forgot because I handed it over to him for repair knowing if I touched any kind of repair compound it would be not just on the repair spot but everywhere else. LOL the same reason why I don't paint.
Whatever Glenn used worked just fine for a long time. I did as I mentioned change the fairing out last restore, for one in far better condition. Not because Glenn's fixes failed but due to over the 39 years of abuse LOL, Cracks had started near the mirrors and it was so cheap to buy the used fairing rather than pay to fix the cracks.

Could have been JB weld he used. It is good stuff. I fixed the bottom of my parts washer years ago when for some reason it developed pin holes. Ten years now, not a drip. St.