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"S" to "C" Handlebar Conversion

mieczkow

Tom Mieczkowski
Beemer Comrades:

I am about to switch my "S" bars over to "C" bars on my 1987 K75S. I need to get a little more upright for riding comfort. I have tried researching this topic and have come across several different descriptions of the process. I think as far as the wrenching goes, I don't see a problem. But, I need some advice on one aspect of this project. What about cables?

I have been told that you must swap out the cables (i.e., get "C" length cables) and replace the stock "S" cables because of the increased distance that the "C" bars add. Others have said "not at all necessary" that you can tweak the "S" stock cables to fit quite comfortably on the "C" bars, including the brake line for the front calipers.

Since the cables are not cheap (what is cheap on a BMW?) this is not an idle question. I also plan on swapping out the crash pad from the "S" to the "C", but some have said "not necessary", that the "S" (smaller) crash pad snuggles quite nicely into the "C" bars.

Any thoughts, advice, sympathy, idle reflections, encouragement, discouragement, etc. welcome.

Oh, and I do have setbacks on the bike already (they were there when I bought it) the setbacks are not quite enough height for me. I'm still too scrunched over, and there to much pressure on the palms.

And one more plea for help. Any thoughts on grips? Stick with the BMW foam-type, or go with gel grips? Anyone want to give me some guidance on that issue also?

Many thanks for any responses!!

Tom Mieczkowski
1987 K75S
St Pete, Florida
 
I did that on my former K100RS, and did not have to change any cables or brake lines. I don't know if the K75 is different in that regard. I will suggest if you are going to keep the setbacks in addition to the C-bars, you may have to change cables and hose.
On my RS I removed the tank and cut some of the ties holding the wiring and cables to get some additional slack. I had to adjust the angle of the brake hose on the master cylinder to get a bit of slack. Once you have removed the Throttle/Brake and Clutch assemblies from the handlebars, remove the S bars. Before you bolt the C bar on, slide it into the Throttle/brake assembly, then slide the clutch side on. You can now bolt the bar in place.
As I said, this was on a K100RS, and your setbacks may also cause you to need longer cables & hose.
 
I didn't have to change any of the cables or hoses when I did it on my K75s. I kept the S 'crash pad' but never liked how it looked. I used a bit of scap metal strapping and made small extenders for the two metal dohicky-brackets that mount the pad.

Did you buy a bar yet? The "Euro K100 Standard" bar is considerably cheaper than the C and is nearly identical.
 
K75S S to c bar

I also have a 1987 K75S. I did switch to the C bar from the standard S bar.
I did not change anything, but the bar. Some cables fits were tight and I reroute the brake line. However, I now have the standard C clutch cable and brake cable as replacements and it is less of a hassle now.
I do like the upright position, it is better for the ole back.
Glen Mcleod
 
Mucho Thanks

Well, thanks for the commentary, folks. This is mighty helpful. I did already buy the bars (on e-Bay) and I just got them today. Real McCoy "C" bars for about $90. I don't plan on keeping the setbacks in place. I'll try if with the C bar bolted right on the forks. If I need more "up and back" I'll put the setbacks back on.

I'll take off the tank, loosen up the cables by tweaking the routes, buy the right crashpad, and try it with the existing cables. I'll see how it all works out. If necessary, I guess I'll have to spring the dinero for new cables, etc.

I figure I'll know what the good and bad is about 2 hours into this project . . .

I am assuming I just cut off the old grips. Anyone try these "gel grips" currently sold on e-Bay? I don't have heated grips - don't need them in sunny Florida.

Again, thanks for the tips and tricks!
 
Hey Tom -

We were looking at those same bars!! :D Let me know how it works out - what Jim just told me - is that you can switch out the S for the C's and not worry about the cables but you will have problems if you put the bar backs on with the new C's. However if the C's are enough for you and you want to get rid of the bar backs, let me know - we might be interested in them.

Good luck and keep us posted :bikes

Tina
 
You Betcha

Tina,

Will do - as I said the plan was not to put the back bars on - hopefully the posture issue will be taken care of with the C bar. I'd be happy to send off the backbars to you. I'll send you a pic of them when the're off and you can let me know what you think the're worth. I'm ordering grips tonight and I just ordered the crashpad from Beemerboneyard, so I'll probably get this taken care of sometime next week

Also - GENERAL PLEAS FOR HELP (Different problem)

I'm having intermittent cut-out on my speedo - started a day or two ago. Sort of half-disassembled the fairing, looked at the wiring going up into the unit - nothing obviously loose. Cleaned the sending unit, etc. Speedo resumed working. Just came back back from a little night ride - same thing falters, make a turn, starts up, falters, etc. No other electrical problems. Gauge unit is clean (looks brand new) no problems with tach or any warning lights, etc.

Any diagnostoc suggestions? I'm at a loss as to where to start.

Tom
 
mieczkow said:
Beemer Comrades: (what is cheap on a BMW?)

Many thanks for any responses!!

Tom Mieczkowski
1987 K75S
St Pete, Florida

The ignition timing plug on my R75/5 is $1.00.
 
Done!

Many thanks for the all the advice. The "C" bars are now installed - it went quite smoothly. I am waiting to get the "C" crashpad which will be install as soon as it arrives today and then I will be back out on the road.

I will be selling the old "S" bars and the backbar set as well - if anyone on the forum is interested, let me know. If not I'll put'em up on the BMWIR site, and if no takers there I'll go e-Bay.

Speedo seems to be working after pulling everything off and cleaning all the contacts, couplings, etc. We'll see how it holds up!

:beer

Tom
 
Ignition timing plug

Oh, by the way, I think the ignition plug is aftermarket . . . . If BMW made it it would $16.

:laugh

Tom
 
mieczkow said:
Also - GENERAL PLEAS FOR HELP (Different problem)

I'm having intermittent cut-out on my speedo - started a day or two ago. Sort of half-disassembled the fairing, looked at the wiring going up into the unit - nothing obviously loose. Cleaned the sending unit, etc. Speedo resumed working. Just came back back from a little night ride - same thing falters, make a turn, starts up, falters, etc. No other electrical problems. Gauge unit is clean (looks brand new) no problems with tach or any warning lights, etc.

Any diagnostoc suggestions? I'm at a loss as to where to start.

Tom

There are about 10,000 posts about this and the problem is usually the three pins that connect the speedo to the flex circuit board. I finally wired around the three pins to eliminate the problem forever. While you are at it, it won't hurt to wire around the four pins on the amplifier strip attached to the speedo unit as well.
The K75 bikes (mostly) also had a problem with the speedo faces coming unglued. That requires a re-gluing job...somewhat tedious but the only fix if that's it. I think that was on later inst pods than the '86 though...maybe around '92 or so.
Also...just thought of it...there is a two pin plug and socket coming up from the pickup on the right side of the bike. Sometimes gets dirty. Also there have been wire breakages under really tight tiewraps on the wire from the pickup...also sometimes intermittant. If it has failed, try the turnsignals and if they cancel, then the problem is past the little amplifier board and probably at the speedo three pins I mentioned. If the turnsignals don't ever self cancel, then the pickup signal is probably not getting to the instrument pod...like the wires or the two pin plug, etc.
 
mieczkow said:
Beemer Comrades:

snip

Oh, and I do have setbacks on the bike already (they were there when I bought it) the setbacks are not quite enough height for me. I'm still too scrunched over, and there to much pressure on the palms.

And one more plea for help. Any thoughts on grips? Stick with the BMW foam-type, or go with gel grips? Anyone want to give me some guidance on that issue also?

Many thanks for any responses!!

Tom Mieczkowski
1987 K75S
St Pete, Florida

Try bending your body at the hips instead of the waist. Your arms will seem much longer and you will no longer have weight on your hands. This will result in your back being straighter...
 
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