Stripped a T40 Bolt on my GSA - how screwed am I?

I need to take a number of parts off of my 2023 R1250 GSA in order to install the Denali equipment I've purchased. I began taking the rear seat base off as well as the pannier rails. Inadvertently, on one of the bolts I inserted a T30 bit instead of a T40 bit. I had already loosened the other bolts, and they each took a lot of pressure to break loose, so I cranked pretty hard on the ratchet only to have the bit slip out. That's when I realized I had used a T30 instead of the required T40. There are 5 "nubs" on the Torx head; 3 are shaved down to about 60% and the other 2 are pretty well flattened. I'm unable to insert the T40 bit into the bolt head.

I'm new to doing anything like this on a motorcycle so I expected to make some rookie mistakes, but this one worries me. It seems like it may be very difficult to rectify. I've included a picture showing which bolt it is, and, unfortunately, it's under the raised section of the rear rack limiting access to the bolt.

Does anyone have any idea how I could get this out? I would appreciate any potential solution you could provide me. Thanks, Don

IIRC, those bolts have the micro-encapsulated threadlocker so warming with a pinpoint torch will help loosen the threadlocker. Also IIRC, those heads are slightly tapered so something like a vise grips won’t work.

If it were mine, I’d get the correct torx bit, a suitable 3/8 extension, a 3/8 breaker bar, a hammer, and a helper. Mount the bit on the extension, align it properly with the bolt, and use the hammer to force-insert the bit. Without removing the bit, attach the breaker bar and have the assistant tap/rap sharply on the head of the breaker bar while you use both hands on the bar and extension—one to steady and one for torque.

But then, I occasionally break stuff so YMMV.

Best,
DeVern

Try taking a small pick, could be a bent nail and "scratching" the stripped area(s) somewhat clean and then insert the proper tool in to where it feels like it should go. Once in what feels like the best fit you are going to get, tap the tool in with a hammer. If you have socket drive torx, you can drive it with an extension adding a universal joint if need be.
If you are using an "Allen" style wrench, be sure you leave some room for the swing of the tool.
Goos Luck.
OM

If the above good advice won't do it then get a Hansen Straight Flute screw extractor of the right size and drive it straight into then Torx head and use it to turn the bolt (capscrew).

PGlaves said:

If the above good advice won't do it then get a Hansen Straight Flute screw extractor of the right size and drive it straight into then Torx head and use it to turn the bolt (capscrew).

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If you have to try the Hansen extractor, you may find it’s taper won’t allow it to seat deep enough. Shortening these extractors is tricky. It needs to be cut with multiple passes using a cut-off wheel a pass at a time, cooling completely in between passes.
These extractors are very hard which is needed to survive the extraction process. Any heat generated in the shortening process reduces the extractors ability to “grip”.

OM

Go to harbor freight or northern or hell even auto zone. You want an impact driver. You give it a half twist to set direction and then smack it with a hammer. It makes an 1/8 of a turn. It’s how I break brake rotor bolts loose.
2nd make sure it’s not a torx plus. There are some on the bikes.

Buy Allen sockets. You can get individual if you don’t wanna buy an entire rail. Hanner in the one that you will make fit. Put in the impact driver…whammy.

Last that your drilling and extraction. May wanna take it in for that if your not comfortable with all that.
Local shop should charge 30-50 to remove it…,


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ITZNUTHIN said:

I'm unable to insert the T40 bit into the bolt head.

Click to expand...

Take a T40 and drive it in with a hammer and try again.

I would consider using an impact driver. I did a quick search on amazon and found this example (no recommendations either way on this--it's just used as an example. I don't know if it's a good one or a bad one).

https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70006-3-8-Inch-Manual-Reversible/dp/B01F5XOFFM/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.824ce8c0-071d-4ae0-a0bd-93ac8c4d5e37%3Aamzn1.sym.824ce8c0-071d-4ae0-a0bd-93ac8c4d5e37&crid=RVVCORFVPO7O&cv_ct_cx=hand+held+impact+driver&keywords=hand+held+impact+driver&pd_rd_i=B01F5XOFFM&pd_rd_r=f3cba09a-9c66-409d-b2ee-2543e7c92d7c&pd_rd_w=glgss&pd_rd_wg=bDsYP&pf_rd_p=824ce8c0-071d-4ae0-a0bd-93ac8c4d5e37&pf_rd_r=HNEJRC7RR36MKJGJT5Z2&qid=1677856119&s=hi&sprefix=hand+held+impact+driver%2Ctools%2C153&sr=1-1-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWTBFRkpLRDBWVTdBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDk1NDYyR1Q0TjJZWDlKQU84JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MTE2MjkzNVpLVFpRWFUwRDhZJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3Bfc2VhcmNoX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I've heard people recommend using valve grinding paste for slightly stripped bolts. The paste kind of fills in the gaps and provides additional grip. I don't have valve grinding paste since I don't redo heads. On the other hand, any kind of paste that has a slight grittiness to it might help. I'll let other chime in if this is a good idea or a bad one.

Please keep us updated on how successful you are.

Unable isn't a word when you're wrenching. Drive a T40 into that bolt with a hammer, it'll go. Replace with a new bolt when you're done.

jonnybow said:

Unable isn't a word when you're wrenching. Drive a T40 into that bolt with a hammer, it'll go. Replace with a new bolt when you're done.

Click to expand...

After you drive it in, use the impact hammer to get it loose. Just make sure you get the impact hammer set the right way.

Looks like a long shank bit will be needed to do the impact hammer. The cross member looks to be in the way.

I'm thinking a pair of vise grips will do it even with the taper head.

AHD43 said:

I'm thinking a pair of vise grips will do it even with the taper head.

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I was wondering about using vise grips. Can't hurt to try.

In any case the bolt is going to be replaced, right? So...drill the head off it, remove the part that needs removing and then you'll be able to wind the remainder of the bolt out with your fingers. If Loctite is present, use vice grips.

If none of the above methods don't work. And drilling is your only option. Get left hand drill bits. Heat and drill usually when the bit bites in it will wind the offending bolt out. Used them with great success at work all the time.

Is the bolt out?

Success!

I decided to start with the recommended approach of hammering in the T40 to get a good grip, but then I saw the impact hammer recommendation, so I thought I'd combine the two approaches. I put a long T40 with a 3/8" socket over the bolt, attached a breaker bar to the socket, and hammered it in. As was suggested, I used the breaker bar simply so I wasn't pounding directly on the 3/8" socket attached to the T40 shaft. I then removed the breaker bar and inserted the impact hammer. I pounded on the impact hammer a number of times, but it didn't seem to budget. Frustrated, I pulled off the impact hammer and put the breaker bar back into the 3/8" socket to pound it in some more. However, in doing so I snapped the 3/8" socket off. So now I simply had a roughly 4-5" T40 - like having a screwdriver with no handle.

I decided I had nothing to lose so I placed the remainder of the T40 back into the bolt and used a hammer to pound good and hard on it. When it felt really tight I grabbed a wrench, tightened it onto the square T40 shaft, and turned it while pressing down as hard as I could. Those bolts are really tight (they all were), so there must be a lot of LocTite on them, but it slowly moved. By turning slowly and keeping downward pressure I was able to remove the bolt.

I truly appreciate the suggestions I received. Without your help, I would have had to head over to a dealer and have them remove the bolt. Many thanks, Don

That’s great

“There is always one more thing that can be done”

Hell, while doing maintenance on a piece of construction equipment today, I checked (aired up) the tires. I seemed to upset the inner portion of one of the valve stems and found a tire flat a few hours later.



With a left-handed drill-bit, 4-way core tool, probe, lube and air, I repaired something that is really not designed to be repaired.
The machine was put away and being a rear tire, getting it off and out would have been a problem.



OM

Glad the offending bolt is out without too much trouble.
Statement - As suggested, if there was locktite on the bolt threads, some heat would have made the job a lot easier. I found great success and ease in removing the 4 paralever housing pins which had locktite from the factory by applying heat to soften it up.
Question - How is one to know which bolts have locktite and which don't? Do you assume it does have locktite and use heat if they give you trouble after an initial normal attempt to remove?

Thanks for anyone with prior BMW history...

bewareboy said:

Glad the offending bolt is out without too much trouble.
Statement - As suggested, if there was locktite on the bolt threads, some heat would have made the job a lot easier. I found great success and ease in removing the 4 paralever housing pins which had locktite from the factory by applying heat to soften it up.
Question - How is one to know which bolts have locktite and which don't? Do you assume it does have locktite and use heat if they give you trouble after an initial normal attempt to remove?

Thanks for anyone with prior BMW history...

Click to expand...

One can't really know this as assembly of the bikes isn't consistent I.E some bikes have lubed drive shaft splines while others are bone dry and rust into a unremovable clump to the FD....
So assume that most of the big fasteners have some thread lock and proceed from there... YMMV