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Inner Timing Cover Not Quite Fitting Between the Down tubes.

88bmwjeff

SF Bay Area
The bike: 1988 R100 RT.

I'm putting things back together after replacing the timing chain (timing chain, sprocket, etc. replaced). I'm now trying to figure out how the inner cover goes back on. I have to admit it was hard to remove and took a little force to remove. There is not enough room on the rightside frame down tube to move the inner timing cover over to fit on the studs. Watching Boxer2Valves video of him working on a 1985 R80 RT (also a monoshock bike), the timing cover fits real easy in between the down tubes. What am I missing? Would it help to loosen the front engine stud in hopes that the right down tube will move to the right enough to install the inner timing cover? I'm really hoping the engine doesn't have to come out.

P.S. I hope I explained this well enough.
 
I can't imagine that you would need to take the engine out to get this cover on. And it doesn't seem likely that the frame is sprung that much that loosening the engine bolts would have an effect. But what the heck, that only takes a few seconds.

Have you measured the distance between the tubes...it's likely not a constant...and the dimension of the cover? Can the cover be put on by coming up from the bottom as much as possible, or maybe cocking it some so that one side goes in, clears the downtube, giving you room to rotate the other side through?
 
I can't imagine that you would need to take the engine out to get this cover on. And it doesn't seem likely that the frame is sprung that much that loosening the engine bolts would have an effect. But what the heck, that only takes a few seconds.

So, I went out and completely loosened the nuts on the bolt, and that provided enough room for me to test fit it twice. So, I think I'm good in this department. All I need now is to remove the last small bit of gasket glue that was utilized last time. The stuff seems to be spot welded on.
 
So, All I need now is to remove the last small bit of gasket glue that was utilized last time. The stuff seems to be spot welded on.

That factory gasket sealer is evil. I worked for hours with the engine in situ and there is little room to work. Two Airhead members came over a couple of weeks ago for an impromptu tech day with a '75 R75/5 block. It was for a new cam chain, PRT tube seals and shaft seals. It was so much easier to do on the bench. I have the tranny pulled for a refresh so It will be easy to also remove my '78 R80/7 block for the same job with the same dudes and their freshly acquired skills! Be thankful that yours is only a single row chain. As much as I like Motobins, they supply their twin row cam chains with a master link that utilises 2 tiny "E"-clips for its retention. No thanks. From elsewhere I got a master link with what I call a proper "fish clip" one piece retainer for simpler installation and peace of mind. Which kind did you install?

Russ
 
That factory gasket sealer is evil. I worked for hours with the engine in situ and there is little room to work. Two Airhead members came over a couple of weeks ago for an impromptu tech day with a '75 R75/5 block. It was for a new cam chain, PRT tube seals and shaft seals. It was so much easier to do on the bench. I have the tranny pulled for a refresh so It will be easy to also remove my '78 R80/7 block for the same job with the same dudes and their freshly acquired skills! Be thankful that yours is only a single row chain. As much as I like Motobins, they supply their twin row cam chains with a master link that utilises 2 tiny "E"-clips for its retention. No thanks. From elsewhere I got a master link with what I call a proper "fish clip" one piece retainer for simpler installation and peace of mind. Which kind did you install?

Russ

With a bit of Permatex gasket remover (and a lot of waiting around for the remover to do its stuff several times), I got all the gasket glue/sealer removed. I purchased a BMW timing chain, which has the "fish clip" retainer.
 
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