Thinking of buying a 1995 K75, would love any adivce and input

I found a 1995 K75 for sale in NYC with 6.3K miles. The bike looks terrific and has the original side cases. I've been riding BMW's for 20+ years owning R and K bikes. My daily driver is a 2020 K1600GT (my second K16GT) but I've been thinking of a second bike, something smaller than the GT or an older bike. So far everything I've read hasn't surfaced any major issues. I don't know the history (yet) of the bike I'm considering but I'm going to take a look at at it and maybe test ride it this week. I've love any advice, input, opinions, or anything else the collective can offer. Also, any links to forums, websites, etc would be terrific.

Thanks all,

Tony

There are only two weak points with K75s.

1. The engines generally run cool enough that the radiator fan seldom needs to come on. But over time some grime can work its way into the front fan motor bushing. The fan gets hard to turn and then when the fan tries to come on it melts the brush holders. Reach up behind the radiator and turn the fan. It should spin freely. If not it is a bit of work to clean and lube that bushing, or maybe replace the fan motor.

2. The driveshaft slides where the female spine on the rear of the shaft mates with the male spline on the final drive pinion gear. This is a wear point. But the cure is simple. Clean and regrease these splines at least every second rear tire change and if you have a high mileage tire then do it every tire change.

It should be as bulletproof as is possible for a BMW.

Which model are you looking at, standard, RT, or S?

ajtrama said:

I found a 1995 K75 for sale in NYC with 6.3K miles. The bike looks terrific and has the original side cases. I've been riding BMW's for 20+ years owning R and K bikes. My daily driver is a 2020 K1600GT (my second K16GT) but I've been thinking of a second bike, something smaller than the GT or an older bike. So far everything I've read hasn't surfaced any major issues. I don't know the history (yet) of the bike I'm considering but I'm going to take a look at at it and maybe test ride it this week. I've love any advice, input, opinions, or anything else the collective can offer. Also, any links to forums, websites, etc would be terrific.

Thanks all,

Tony

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As others have said, overall, the classic K-bikes are bulletproof and will outlast you. Paul mentioned the stuck radiator fan and the need to grease the rear drive splines. That last one is a bit more than critical. To replace a rear drive pinion shaft and buy a new driveshaft is about $1,500 now. At 6,000 miles it would be very unlikely you will have a problem but do check it now and keep after it.

Other things:
1. Possible old fuel damage in the tank, especially a frozen fuel pump/sticky injectors and/or a rotted fuel pump rubber mount.
2. I would consider all new fuel system rubber inside and outside of the tank.
3. Replace the crankcase breather hose.
4. Check for air leaks around the throttle body manifolds at engine mounting, and airbox couplers.

Otherwise all the normal service and check points. If that bike is in "6.3k" condition I would jump on it, if it were me.

Standard I think

98lee said:

Which model are you looking at, standard, RT, or S?

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Lee it's definitely not an RT (no fairing) and there's nothing that indicates it's an 'S'. The model badge on the rear just says 'K75'.

ajtrama said:

Lee it's definitely not an RT (no fairing) and there's nothing that indicates it's an 'S'. The model badge on the rear just says 'K75'.


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That is what I would call a Low Seat Standard. I have two of them and they are great bikes.

Thanks!

Guys thanks for your input. I called the guy today about the bike and he did mention the ABS light is on so I need to consider that. He also has the service records. I will probably pop over to Staten Island on Friday.
I know you can't diagnose things remotely, but what are likely issues that would trigger the ABS light?

Thanks!

Tony

Tony,

The battery voltage getting low at some point will trigger a low voltage code in the ABS, causing the light. Since the bike has been sitting (only 6300 miles), the battery has probably gone dead several times. Probably all that is needed is for the ABS to be reset, thereby clearing the code. It is an easy procedure.

There are a few places that will rebuild the computer for a reasonable price if resetting the codes doesn’t fix the problem, but I really doubt that that would be necessary.

Personally, I would use the fact that the light is on as a negotiating tool to get a better deal on the bike. We can help you fix the brakes once you buy it.



One thing you should do when you go to look at the bike, especially since it only has 6300 miles on it (it’s been sitting A LOT!) is pop open the gas cap and remove the 4 philips head screws that hold the cap assembly to the tank. Use LOTS of downward pressure on the screws so you don’t strip out the screw heads. Remove the assembly and look into the tank. It is made of aluminum and should be bright shiney silver inside. Any sign of brown discoloration on the inside indicates deterioration of the fuel pump vibration damper due to sitting with bad gas in it, which could indicate contamination in the pump and injectors which probably will need to be addressed.

Is the seller the previous owner or a dealer? From the location of the photos, it appears to be a business district, indicating a dealer. If it is a dealer, chances are he is not familiar with the normal start up of the ABS or if he is, he still is probably not familiar with the fault code reset procedure for the ABS. This could suggest that it could just need a reset.

Good Luck!

Wow! That bike sure looks mint. Most K75's are pretty tired by now.

Pulled the trigger.

Gents thanks again for your insight and advice. I took a ride over to the dealer in Staten Island this morning and test rode the K75. What a blast! The bike looks great in person with some very minor scuffs on the cases. I tooled around and fell in love. I didn't get a good look inside the tank as it was full and the ABS light actually did go off during the test ride. It started right up and sounded fine. No leaks anywhere as far as I can tell and there was a folder full of service records inside the right side case. I saw some of the work was done by my local dealer, Cross Country BMW in Metuchen NJ. I'll talk to the service manager next week. Everything seems to work OK but I did notice turning the key to the "ON" position didn't turn the bike on, I had to turn it to about the two o'clock position. Not sure what that's about. Time to order some service manuals so please chime in with your recommendations. I've already ordered the cradle for the Nav VI which is curently installed on the GT. When the gas level gets low I'll inspect the gas tank. I'm already thinking about getting it wrapped to protect the paint, and maybe to get it to match the Black Storm Metallic GT or my 2019 440i MSport (Estoril Blue). Any thoughts on wrapping the side cases? I was thinking just plain black with a dull finish.

Thanks again!

Tony

Tony,


CONGRATULATIONS!!!




Like I told you, I’m not suprised that they were not familiar with the normal cycling of the ABS. I hope that helped you get a slightly better deal.

Normally, when you first start the bike, the bulb monitoring light (triangle in the center of the dash) and the ABS fault light (to the left of the low fuel light) will flash together. To clear the bulb monitor light, you activate and release the front brake and activate and release the rear brake (in either order). This can be done after you take off or while sitting still. If I remember correctly, the lights will then flash alternately. Once you reach about 10mph, the ABS light will go out (if there are no codes stored in the ABS computer).

The triangle bulb monitoring light will stay on if: your TAIL LIGHT BULB is bad, your BRAKE LIGHT BULB is bad, your FRONT BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH is bad, or your REAR BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH is bad. Good to know, since you can’t see them while you’re riding. If one of your turn indicator bulbs is bad, it will go into hyperflash on that side. If your headlight goes out at night, it will get dark (duh).

As far as manuals go, I recommend Clymer’s BMW K-Series 1985-1995 M500 SECOND EDITION or Clymer’s BMW K-Series 1985-1997 M500-3 THIRD EDITION.

Do NOT buy Clymer’s BMW K75 & K100 1985-1989 M500 as this manual does not address any of the many changes made after 1990.

The Clymer manual is much more in depth than the Haynes manual, although the Haynes manual has slightly easier to read electrical schematics. But for schematics, I use a 11 1/2” x 17” laminated color schematic (the lines match the wire colors) from Prospero’s Garage https://www.ebay.com/itm/220365314483 or contact them at r75.5@mindspring.com. It is listed as “diagram U”, for BMW Motorcycles: 1986 to 1995 K75, K75C, K75T, K75S, K75RT. It is FAR AND AWAY the best schematic I have found for these bikes (and it is very reasonably priced). The ones in the manuals will drive you crazy! Even the factory ones.

I would also get an owners manual, if your bike didn’t come with one. Read it from cover to cover as soon as you can.


Personally, I would not wrap the side cases. STONER’S TRIM SHINE will keep all the black ABS parts and all the black painted parts and rubber parts looking new. It even works well on the seats (leather or vinyl).

As far as your key position goes: The normal Off position is with the key slot vertical and the On position is with the key almost horizontal to the right. I think they did it that way so that the little BMW Roundel on the folding key faces the Off, Park, and On on the key surround or your thumb, if you use your right hand is adjacent to the correct position on the key surround. It is NOT the top of the key (like most vehicles) that indicates the position.
So you’re good.

Got a little bit of wrenching in my future.

Thanks Lee and everyone else for your help. I'm picking up the K75 on Friday morning (I haven't taken the Staten Island Ferry in nearly thirty years lol) and have already ordered everything to do an oil change on the engine, gearbox, and final drive. I've also ordered a new fuel pump and an upgraded vibration dampener (had to get that from Beemer Boneyard). I'm also going to replace the plugs and air filter while I'm at it. Per Lee's recommendation I've also ordered some Stoner's Trim Shine to breathe a little life back into the side cases and some of the faded black bits.

I imagine I'll be looking for a windscreen as well since riding K12 and K16 GT's for the last 13 years has spoiled me. I'm sure I'll be back soon bugging you guys with more questions.
Thanks for being a great community.

Tony

Brought it home last nigt.

I picked up the K75 this afternoon and rode it home the eighteen miles from Staten Island to NJ in rush hour traffic. I had forgotten how much fun it is to ride a small fast bike in heavy traffic. The bike felt great. Everything is nice and tight works ok as far as I can tell. The clutch engages smoothly and early and the rear brake is surprisingly powerful. Gear changes were smooth and silent. The power sockets work so fortunately my Gerbing liner was powered up. Even with no windscreen, there was almost no buffeting at 60MPH with my Shoei GT Air. No obvious issues with the suspension. The dash lights up in green (is that stock?) and there was condensation on the inside of the speedo which is gone now (in my climate controlled garage). It was about 40F. There is only one key, the one with the roundel and hinged head. There were two small regular metal keys in one side case but they don’t seem to fit anywhere, including the fork lock. Looks like I need to buy a couple of blanks. The cases are in great shape and came off easily. The interlock between the clutch lever and sidestand is a little goofy, I’ve never had a bike with that feature. Pleasantly surprised to see a gear indicator on the dash. The right handgrip is missing the bar end cap. The bike has Grip-puppy like grips, rather than the usual BMW black rubber. I assume these are aftermarket?

There was a folder full of service receipts. The bike was bought new from Bavarian Cycle Works in San Francisco in August 1995. That owner sold it to a buyer in NY in September 2013. He’s been taking it to my local Motorrad dealer for service. The records show an initial oil change at 438 miles in Sept 2001. Four hundred miles in six years! Three oil changes total. No records at all from then until Sept 2013 when it was shipped to its new owner in NY with about 5.2K miles on the clock. After that date, the records are fairly complete. The second owner in NY had an extensive service done not long after taking possession. No mention anywhere of splines/lube but I guess I wouldn’t expect a problem at 6k miles. Most recent service visits were last summer: Repaired a fluid leak from the final drive housing (June) and the 6K/Annual service in August. The battery is two years old, plugs are nine years/1,100 miles ago, as is the air filter, fuel filter, and fuel pump. The bike was fully inspected last summer including hoses, seals, etc. The tires are also from November 2013 but only have 1,100 miles on them. They’re old so I’ll replace them. I’ll also swap out the plugs and air filter today since I already have them. The tool kit looks intact, and the owners manual looks brand new. Overall I’m extremely pleased with the bike. Just got my plate and registration this morning. I’m going to install a few goodies this week, an Admore light bar like I have on the GT, and the cradle for the Nav VI is on the way. I’d like to mount a top case so any recommendations would be welcome.

Thanks again for all the help!



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That's a NICE bike!!

Congrats!

Great to hear all the good news! Enjoy it in good health and safety!

Nice machine!