RTW Camshaft Sensor Error Codes

My engine management light came on after sitting for awhile, and the bike started running a bit rough, although not in limp mode and I could still drive it.
I did some diagnostics with my GS 911 and came up with the following error codes:

OX21FD32 Camshaft Sensor input signal number and position of edges implausible
OX21FD31 Camshaft Sensor input signal no single edge detected, input level low

That being discovered, I bought and installed a new battery, since the old was about 7 years old, thinking this could have contributed to the error code.
Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem.

So I removed the cam sensor and engine side cover to expose the camshaft and I noticed some powdered debris on the top of the cam sensor. This contacts the plastic reluctor attached to the camshaft. I am thinking either the sensor is bad, and or the reluctor is worn somewhat, as it appears to be made of plastic.

Has anyone else on the forum experienced this type of failure and do you think I should order both parts and replace them? Also, are there any adjustments to be made with the reluctor as it is installed onto the camshaft?

erkj79 said:

My engine management light came on after sitting for awhile, and the bike started running a bit rough, although not in limp mode and I could still drive it.
I did some diagnostics with my GS 911 and came up with the following error codes:

OX21FD32 Camshaft Sensor input signal number and position of edges implausible
OX21FD31 Camshaft Sensor input signal no single edge detected, input level low

“So I removed the cam sensor and engine side cover to expose the camshaft and I noticed some powdered debris on the top of the cam sensor.”

“This contacts the plastic reluctor attached to the camshaft. I am thinking either the sensor is bad, and or the reluctor is worn somewhat, as it appears to be made of plastic.”

“Has anyone else on the forum experienced this type of failure and do you think I should order both parts and replace them? Also, are there any adjustments to be made with the reluctor as it is installed onto the camshaft?”

Click to expand...

This sensor, like the speed sensors, are electromagnetic coil pickups and are likely sites for ferrous bits floating in the oil to collect. There is usually a very small amount of metal fuzzy buildup on the top/end of this part.

The reluctor should not contact the pickup under normal conditions.
If the reluctor was plastic, it could not perform the position trigger that the coil pickup needs to send the signal of camshaft position to the ECU.

I have seen these codes logged when the LH camshaft position trigger (reluctor) has not been tightened securely and rotated some on the camshaft.

The location of the coil pickup is fixed by the bore of the hole in the bottom of the cylinder head and the bolt hole molded into the affixing ear.

What you need to do now is treat this like a normal Cam Timing Check. That means using the 8mm TDC Locking Pin, the Cam Chain Tensioner, and the Cam Alignment Jig with the cylinder on the side you are checking at TDC.
It’s not clear at this point whether it is just the Reluctor that may have slipped on the end of the camshaft, or if the camshaft may have slipped on its drive gear.

Let me know if you have any questions, or need tools.
Brad

Great info. Thanx, Brad. So several questions....
Is the reluctor design such that it can only go on in one position or can it in fact be rotated and go out of adjustment?
I thought cam timing on these models are accomplished by alignment of cam gears. If the rotation of the reluctor is off, what does that affect? I will check to see tomorrow if the reluctor bolt is loose or if there are alignment grooves on it and report back

I guess I cannot understand why the pickup wheel is not keyed to the camshaft and relies on a friction fit which can loosen during operation.

The cam position sensor is everything on these bikes. I have fixed so many hard or second start conditions by aligning the cam position sensor correctly. This is how it should look.


As Brad said you can only set this with the cam tools. You need to simulate running conditions with the tension tool to set cam timing and then set cam position sensor.

The reluctor is not keyed to the washer, part #4 in this diagram. The cam gear wheels are also not keyed to the ends of the cams. Both the washer and the cam gear wheels are able to be rotated 360 degrees when the hex bolt #6 is loosened.

The distance between the end of the hex bolt and the sprocket with the chain on it is such that once the M5x20 Fillister head screw is loosened (4mm Allen wrench) you need to rotate the reluctor, then cant it slightly to negotiate it off the end of the cam bolt. This reluctor must be removed in order to loosen the M10x1.25 bolt under there when cam timing is checked/adjusted. (16mm or 5/8in torque adapter)



Even though this on the 1250 ShiftHead engine, the specifics for the removal of the reluctor and loosening of the cam bolts is the same as for the 1200 WetHead.
https://youtu.be/PQeNcD0gGOw?t=567

Great info. Thanx so much. Brad, can you send me a pm on tools I need and cost for 2014 r1200 rtw? Thanx

Thanx for the input. Lobes seem ok. I will take a closer look

If I am not mistaken, a camshaft position sensor is usually a magnetic device, while the reluctor is made of or at least contains material that will affect the sensor, ie; iron or steel. The sensor “tells” the ECU when the piston is on the intake (and not the exhaust) stroke so the fuel injectors will be timed properly. The metallic particles on the sensor are likely interfering with the signal to the ECU which is throwing the codes. This may be basic information to some here on the forum but might be useful to others.

If it was my bike, I would be concerned about the source of those particles. Tiny pieces of iron or steel are not a good thing to have floating around in the oil. If the cam lobes look ok I would cut open the oil filter to be sure there is not a problem somewhere. It’s possible those particles have been there a long time but I would not bet on it.

Good luck with the troubleshooting. I do hope it’s nothing expensive!

Boxflyer said:

This sensor, like the speed sensors, are electromagnetic coil pickups and are likely sites for ferrous bits floating in the oil to collect. There is usually a very small amount of metal fuzzy buildup on the top/end of this part.

The reluctor should not contact the pickup under normal conditions.
If the reluctor was plastic, it could not perform the position trigger that the coil pickup needs to send the signal of camshaft position to the ECU.

I have seen these codes logged when the LH camshaft position trigger (reluctor) has not been tightened securely and rotated some on the camshaft.

The location of the coil pickup is fixed by the bore of the hole in the bottom of the cylinder head and the bolt hole molded into the affixing ear.

What you need to do now is treat this like a normal Cam Timing Check. That means using the 8mm TDC Locking Pin, the Cam Chain Tensioner, and the Cam Alignment Jig with the cylinder on the side you are checking at TDC.
It’s not clear at this point whether it is just the Reluctor that may have slipped on the end of the camshaft, or if the camshaft may have slipped on its drive gear.

Let me know if you have any questions, or need tools.
Brad

Click to expand...

Update on Camshaft Sensor Issue.....
While awaiting tools purchased from boxflyer, I preped the engine for a cam timing check and noticed after I did a rough alignment to TDC by using a straightedge along the flats of the intake and exhaust cams, the reluctor was not close at all to the tip of the cam sensor as shown on the pictures. Seems like the reluctor loosened up somehow and rotated. Very strange. I did have major work done on the bike at the dealer years ago for a leak in the xmission, so maybe it was not torqued properly. More to follow....Can't wait to do my first cam timing check.

It has a distinct line on it to align with the slot on the pick up.

Even though you are at TDC to check valves, to check cam alignment you need to have the cam chain tensioner in the bike. It takes the cam chain slack up and your alignment will be totally different when the tensioner is in simulating a running engine.

As I said it makes a huge difference to do a cam alignment and adjust the cam position sensor. But you need the tools for a cam alignment before you see how far off it is. If you look at the diagram I posted you will see the line very easily and it needs aligned just as the diagram shows.

The tracking on your tools says delivery tomorrow by 8PM.

The pictures you sent show the side you are looking at to be at valve overlap and the cams are 180 degrees out from firing TDC.
The laser etched marks need to be far apart away from each other with the flats able to be lined up.

Rotate the crankshaft one full revolution to get the LH side in firing position at TDC.

Talk to you later.
Brad

stupid mistake, thanx
i rotated 180 degrees to TDC and the reluctor is about 1/2" off without the tensioner installed. Received the tools tonite, and will start the cam alignment tomorrow.

Closure on RTW cam sensor issue

I wanted to document the results of all my troubleshooting relative to the Cam Sensor error signals I was receiving as stated in this post.
First of all, many thanks to Boxflyer who provided much needed advice and the tools to accomplish the cam timing, and to others that provided input.

After receiving the error codes discussed above from my GS 911, I proceeded to place the left side cam at TDC position and found the cam timing to be dead on. The reluctor was about 1/2" off the alignment mark, so I loosened the bolt and accurately aligned it. I also verified the right side cam timing which was dead on. There were metal filings and debris on the head of the sensor, which I cleaned. I them started it up and it ran great for awhile and i cleared the original error code with my GS 911, only to have the error reappear after a few starts.
I then rechecked the cam timing and verified that the reluctor was still aligned which it was. So, thinking that a short or open in the wiring could cause the problem, I performed a continuity check of the 3 wires going from the cam sensor to the ECU. Although the continuity all checked out, I did find an error in my Haynes manual as previously discussed. All this being said, I felt the problem had to be attributable to the cam sensor, so I ordered a new one along with its o-ring seal and installed it.
The bike started right up, ran great, and the error self-cleared. I then used my GS 911 to clear the history of all previous error codes.
I have not seen or heard about many cam sensor issues, so I was really reluctant to order a new one without going thru all this troubleshooting. So the root cause of this issue appears to be accumulation of filings and debris on the sensor head which effectively fouled the sensor, as there are small slots along the side of the sensor head. I did try to clean the old sensor using a solvent and compressed air which did not work.
So, note to all: when you remove the camshaft covers for maintenance, check the end of the cam sensor for any debris and double check the alignment of the reluctor!
Thanx again to all who helped out...

Great to have the follow-up.
Thanks.
OM