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Would like ideas on Fuel Pump Storage. ‘92 & ‘95 K 75’s
- Thread starter 72r60/7
- Start date
52184
GTRider
Fill the tank with fresh non-ethanol premium, treat it with StaBil or Sea Foam, and ride the bike to get that fresh fuel worked through the FI system. Top up tank and park the bike.
The biggest risk RE fuel storage on a brick-k is in leaving fuel sit long enough—as in 12+ months—to turn varnishy and start dissolving the rubber anti-vibration mount for the fuel pump. Those dissolve into a horrible black pump-destroying spooge that you never want to see or have to clean out.
If you’re storing the bike longer than 12 months and don’t have someone who can drain out or ride out the fuel for you, then I’d run some treated fuel through the system followed by a complete drain and dry of fuel tank and draining the fuel rail as much as possible via a disconnected return line. That risks having the pump rubber and injector seals dry and crack, but that’s much easier to fix than a spooge fest.
Best,
DeVern
The biggest risk RE fuel storage on a brick-k is in leaving fuel sit long enough—as in 12+ months—to turn varnishy and start dissolving the rubber anti-vibration mount for the fuel pump. Those dissolve into a horrible black pump-destroying spooge that you never want to see or have to clean out.
If you’re storing the bike longer than 12 months and don’t have someone who can drain out or ride out the fuel for you, then I’d run some treated fuel through the system followed by a complete drain and dry of fuel tank and draining the fuel rail as much as possible via a disconnected return line. That risks having the pump rubber and injector seals dry and crack, but that’s much easier to fix than a spooge fest.
Best,
DeVern
Oh yeah, that stuff is available anywhere!
If not available at a gas station locally, all the big box stores carry it by the gallon in their small engine department.
OM
52184
GTRider
Oh yeah, that stuff is available anywhere!
https://www.buyrealgas.com/Tennessee.html
It has been getting easier to get in recent years, even in the corn states.
Best,
DeVern
https://www.buyrealgas.com/Tennessee.html
It has been getting easier to get in recent years, even in the corn states.
Best,
DeVern
I store all my bikes - and cars - with VP fuel in the tanks. I don't trust even non-ethanol fuels for any type of storage. VP C9 is an unleaded fuel that will store well for years.
For really long term storage (and I am thinking year or multiple years), I have first siphoned as much fuel as possible from tank. Tank was removed from bike and remaining gas dumped out. I poured a bit of rubbing alcohol (91%) in and shook the tank with cap on [this is to help remove remaining volatile gas fumes]. I poured the alcohol out. I left cap off for a while to allow tank to dry. I poured in a mix of WD-40 (about 85%) and Marvel Mystery Oil (about 15%) around one cup total. The cap was replaced and the tank shaken to coat all surfaces. Cap was left on tank with note regarding need to dump / flush tank before use.
Several years later the cap was removed and the WD-40 / MMO mix was dumped from the tank. I again used alcohol to help flush out the remaining WD/MMO. The a wee bit of gas was put in the tank. Another shake / dump. Tank placed on the bike and filled with fresh gas.
Carbs had been disassembled and stored after having been washed with same WD-40 / MMO mix. Residual WD/MMO drained from carbs. Old spark plugs removed. Engine manually rotated a few times. New spark plugs installed. Battery (either new or from charger / tender) installed. Bike started. A bit of smoke for minute or so, then ran ok. After a mile or so bike back to smooth running.
With fuel injectors, I would remove from fuel rail and use 9-volt battery and carb cleaner to flush injectors. I have described my injector cleaning process in detail elsewhere and there are YouTube videos that show an easy method to clean injectors.
With K-75S, I removed fuel pump assembly. New fuel filter installed, gas drained from pump. New rubber damping block. This assembly was stored in a plastic bag until ready to place back in tank. New submersible fuel lines used.
Fresh oils all around bike. If parts (e.g. transmission and engine) will be disassembled for extended period, then I clean parts and coat with WD-40 / MMO mix. Parts usually placed in a labeled box and wrapped in rags (finally found a use for old t-shirts). Rags around parts wetted with WD-40 / MMO mix. This keeps parts from rusting.
My restorations / repair / re-builds can take a few years to complete. If I was in a hurry, it would seem like a job rather than a hobby.
Did I mention the need to label the boxes with parts and put a note on the fuel tank? Bike will not run or will run poorly if preservative mix not thoroughly removed first!!!
I typically put Sta-Bil in my fuel tanks year round. I use about 2 oz of Sta-Bil per 5 gallons gas (or when filling up K75S tank). Bikes could sit a few months, typically I fill the tanks after a ride. Sometimes I will siphon most gas from tank and pour in car or lawnmower. Then ride the bike to gas station and fill-up with fresh gas - Sta-Bil added.
Several years later the cap was removed and the WD-40 / MMO mix was dumped from the tank. I again used alcohol to help flush out the remaining WD/MMO. The a wee bit of gas was put in the tank. Another shake / dump. Tank placed on the bike and filled with fresh gas.
Carbs had been disassembled and stored after having been washed with same WD-40 / MMO mix. Residual WD/MMO drained from carbs. Old spark plugs removed. Engine manually rotated a few times. New spark plugs installed. Battery (either new or from charger / tender) installed. Bike started. A bit of smoke for minute or so, then ran ok. After a mile or so bike back to smooth running.
With fuel injectors, I would remove from fuel rail and use 9-volt battery and carb cleaner to flush injectors. I have described my injector cleaning process in detail elsewhere and there are YouTube videos that show an easy method to clean injectors.
With K-75S, I removed fuel pump assembly. New fuel filter installed, gas drained from pump. New rubber damping block. This assembly was stored in a plastic bag until ready to place back in tank. New submersible fuel lines used.
Fresh oils all around bike. If parts (e.g. transmission and engine) will be disassembled for extended period, then I clean parts and coat with WD-40 / MMO mix. Parts usually placed in a labeled box and wrapped in rags (finally found a use for old t-shirts). Rags around parts wetted with WD-40 / MMO mix. This keeps parts from rusting.
My restorations / repair / re-builds can take a few years to complete. If I was in a hurry, it would seem like a job rather than a hobby.
Did I mention the need to label the boxes with parts and put a note on the fuel tank? Bike will not run or will run poorly if preservative mix not thoroughly removed first!!!
I typically put Sta-Bil in my fuel tanks year round. I use about 2 oz of Sta-Bil per 5 gallons gas (or when filling up K75S tank). Bikes could sit a few months, typically I fill the tanks after a ride. Sometimes I will siphon most gas from tank and pour in car or lawnmower. Then ride the bike to gas station and fill-up with fresh gas - Sta-Bil added.
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Just for reference I bought a Yamaha R1 that had been parked for ten years. The tank had been nearly full by the varnish line on the inside of the tank. There was no fuel in the tank. The fuel pump fit in from the bottom and the o-ring was rotten so it drained out after the fuel in the tank turned to acid.
When I got it home I pulled the tank and looked over the fuel pump, all the wires were gone, dissolved by the rancid gas. Everything inside the tank was shot. Now the crazy part. The rest of the fuel system was fine, still full of fuel and no objectionable odor. My guess is no oxygen, and the fuel didn't turn rancid. I had bought a fuel pump on eBay and ran across the throttle bodies and all the fuel lines for $30 so I bought it. I used very little of it.
I agree with fill it up with pure gasoline and a good dose of Stabil and run it so the fuel gets through the system, then park it.
The problem with draining it is you will never remove all the gas from the system. If air can get to the gas eventually it will get rancid. Fill the tank and hoe for the best.
I had a chain saw I rarely used. I had storage in the attic of my garage and it would get hot up there in the summer. I stored my chainsaw up there. I always ran storage ratio of Stabil in my two stroke garden tools as I didn't use them often. It wasn't unusual to grab the chainsaw after 2-3 years of storage, dump out the gas, pour in fresh and give it 3-4 pulls and it was running fine. Try that with ethanol blends! My generator that I run fairly often gets pure gas and the carb still gets gummy.
When I got it home I pulled the tank and looked over the fuel pump, all the wires were gone, dissolved by the rancid gas. Everything inside the tank was shot. Now the crazy part. The rest of the fuel system was fine, still full of fuel and no objectionable odor. My guess is no oxygen, and the fuel didn't turn rancid. I had bought a fuel pump on eBay and ran across the throttle bodies and all the fuel lines for $30 so I bought it. I used very little of it.
I agree with fill it up with pure gasoline and a good dose of Stabil and run it so the fuel gets through the system, then park it.
The problem with draining it is you will never remove all the gas from the system. If air can get to the gas eventually it will get rancid. Fill the tank and hoe for the best.
I had a chain saw I rarely used. I had storage in the attic of my garage and it would get hot up there in the summer. I stored my chainsaw up there. I always ran storage ratio of Stabil in my two stroke garden tools as I didn't use them often. It wasn't unusual to grab the chainsaw after 2-3 years of storage, dump out the gas, pour in fresh and give it 3-4 pulls and it was running fine. Try that with ethanol blends! My generator that I run fairly often gets pure gas and the carb still gets gummy.
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