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2014 R1200RT stator failure by ldg

RadioFlyer, do you know of a source for "series type regulators" for the LC R1200RTs? I have a 2014 with low mileage and would like to do anything possible to extend the life of my stator.

I will walk through this slowly so that you can follow along and verify for yourself.

According to the parts fiche at MAX BMW the regulator on your bike is part # 12 31 8 523 367. You should verify this for yourself.

To find out what regulator that actually is I searched on the internet for images matching the part number. There are several used ones for sale on eBay with photos. I grabbed this one.

FH020.jpg

As you can see it is the Shindengen FH020 regulator that I mentioned previously. The "AA" suffix indicates that the voltage setpoint is 14.5V +/- 0.5V.

At this point I will say that I do not have a specific series regulator to recommend for your specific bike as I haven't researched it. But I do have a suggestion.

I would suggest that you contact one or more of the following reputable vendors relating that you want to replace the FH020AA shunt type regulator on your specific bike with a series type regulator. Ask them what regulator they would recommend and whether they know if there are any physical fitment issues for your bike (not all regulators have the same form factor).

Electrosport
RMStator
ROADSTERCYCLE

These vendors will sell you a "real" item (Shindengen or another name brand). There are a number of counterfeit Shindengens out there.

And of course you could always Google for posts by those who have replaced the FH020 on your bike or on other models/brands.

Hope this helps. I am currently replacing the regulators on our two F800 bikes over the winter.
 
May want to try Rick’s Motorsport Electrics. They are nice to deal with.
As the F800 series was mentioned-

8AC29A06-9028-40DF-9869-F2DCCF4089A8.png

OM
 
Exactly. It's misinformation.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

Not sure about that comment. If your battery isn’t operating at the correct voltage, it puts stress on the charging system to try and get it back to where it is supposed to be. Voltage regulator and alternator go into overtime trying to get things right. I might be wrong, but my ‘05 HD Road Glide has its original regulator, stator, etc., and has 109,000 miles on it now because I’ve been keeping on top of the battery and it’s charging state.

Good buddy of mine (owns an RT, too) has built HD XR bikes for the track as well as building engines from scratch out of billet. Flow bench, c&c machining is at his shop and has also served as a sounding board for Indian Motorcycles and their new engines. In short, I trust his opinion regarding how stators and regulators can go bad on HD motorcycles.

Comments from him tell me that when the battery is weak, the rest of the system suffers; sometimes at great expense.

Gold Wings also require the engine to be dropped for access to their stator, too. So it looks like we aren’t the only ones that ‘enjoy’ the expense of poor location.
 
Not sure about that comment. If your battery isn’t operating at the correct voltage, it puts stress on the charging system to try and get it back to where it is supposed to be. Voltage regulator and alternator go into overtime trying to get things right. I might be wrong, but my ‘05 HD Road Glide has its original regulator, stator, etc., and has 109,000 miles on it now because I’ve been keeping on top of the battery and it’s charging state.

Good buddy of mine (owns an RT, too) has built HD XR bikes for the track as well as building engines from scratch out of billet. Flow bench, c&c machining is at his shop and has also served as a sounding board for Indian Motorcycles and their new engines. In short, I trust his opinion regarding how stators and regulators can go bad on HD motorcycles.

Comments from him tell me that when the battery is weak, the rest of the system suffers; sometimes at great expense.

Gold Wings also require the engine to be dropped for access to their stator, too. So it looks like we aren’t the only ones that ‘enjoy’ the expense of poor location.

Read post #59. If you or your good buddy have a technical counter-argument please make it. "Going into overtime trying to get things right" is meaningless.
 
There is a goodly amount of confusion about regulator/rectifiers out there which can become frustrating for anyone wanting to get a handle on the subject. Often one can see posts that mix up the type of semiconductor used (SCR, MOSFET...) with the type of regulation (series, shunt).

I came across the following post which does an admirable treatment on the subject and gets it right. Ignore the fact that its in a post about Seadoos - its the same electronics.

Source:
http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=296355&page=2&p=3157024&viewfull=1#post3157024

"MOSFET vs. SCR shunt type voltage regulators
Looking at the internal circuit designs, my understanding is that the Seadoo OEM voltage regulator SH775 is a series type [not the shunt type] using SCR diodes and power rectifying diodes in the high current circuit. There is some power loss and therefore heat generated by the power diodes and by SCRs as the series regulator operates.

In comparison the (SHINDENGEN FH020AA) MOSFET shunt type voltage regulator uses MOSFET transistors in the high current portion of the regulator. The rectifying diodes are probably Schottky type which have a smaller voltage loss and generate less heat than ‘regular’ power diodes. The MOSFET transistors each have much lower voltage loss than SCR devices and overall the MOSFETs will generate less heat.

I do not know why the SCR series regulator SH775 is sometimes mistaken as shunt type while the MOSFET FH020 regulator (which is a shunt design) is seemingly sometimes mis-understood as ‘not shunt’.

The electrical efficiency (inside the regulator) comes from the lower energy losses through each MOSFET vs. each SCR. The SCR type of regulator will produce more regulator module heat in normal operation, compared to MOSFET.

The amount of current flowing from each of the stator windings and through the three heavy stator wires (and the stator wire connector pins) feeding the regulator will be higher for shunt regulators using either SCR or MOSFETs. Maybe a tad more stator coil current flow with the MOSFET regulator, since there is less voltage loss across the MOSFETs.

As engine RPM rises the stator can deliver more coil current and the shunt will be active a larger percentage of the time. The SCR regulator will generate the most waste heat at whatever RPM (circa 8000?) the stator can generate the most current (amps). Same for the MOSFET regulator, just that the MOSFET regulator’s waste heat will be a fraction of the SCR heat output.

The SCR shunt regulator will generate the most heat when the battery is already fully charged and the engine is running at fairly high RPM. If a (not fully charged) battery needs a lot of charge current from the stator then the SCRs will be shunting less current and therefore producing less regulator heat.


The voltage regulation (in both SCR and MOSFET shunt versions) works by sensing regulator output/battery voltage rising slightly above the target voltage and immediately shunting (aka shorting) the stator winding’s outputs to ground, effectively allowing the stator coil output current to flow unimpeded in a tight loop through the regulator shunt, the stator coil windings, and the engine case (electrical ground).

When output voltage to the battery declines just enough for the regulator to allow the shunt to (re)open, the SCRs (or MOSFETs) cease shunting stator current and again the stator supplies charge current to the battery (through the diodes). This cycle repeats rapidly and endlessly as the engine runs, with the rapid shunt/no-shunt cycles averaging into a stable charge voltage into the battery. The MOSFET regulator has the potential to more tightly regulate the output voltage with more rapid cycling of the shunt."


The SH775 mentioned is the series type of regulator that I am installing on our two F800 bikes. It has a different form factor than the original regulator so I am having to do some fabrication. The FH020 on the Wetheads has exactly the same form factor as the SH775 but I am hesitant to recommend it because I am not familiar with the current load of the Wetheads and suspect that it could be significantly more that the F800. The latest/greatest Shindengen series type regulator is the SH847 and it would certainly be up to the Wethead load but it has a larger form factor than the FH020 and I have no idea if the physical space on the Wetheads (which is rather tight I understand) would permit its mounting.
 
RadioFlyer, thanks for the detailed explanations and links to reputable vendors. This certainly gives me enough information to start doing my own research, and hence will be a great winter project for me and my RT. If I make changes (or discover I cannot, due to space restrictions), I will post updates either on this thread or a new one.
 
RadioFlyer, thanks for the detailed explanations and links to reputable vendors. This certainly gives me enough information to start doing my own research, and hence will be a great winter project for me and my RT. If I make changes (or discover I cannot, due to space restrictions), I will post updates either on this thread or a new one.

I think that if you poke around the ROADSTERCYCLE website you will find a dimensioned diagram of the SH847 which may assist in discerning physical fitment.
 
Today I installed a 847 on an R1200RTW. It's tight, but by pulling the upper shock bolt and letting the shock drop down a bit it did fit in. I rerouted the ESA wire that runs on the outside of the shock reservoir, in case the res hit the 847 and cut that wire. I use the 847 as a template and drilled holes from the top, then through-bolted it.
 
Stator Failures

The failures appear to be occurring on 2014 RTs manufactured prior to April of 2014. Mine was built in 12/13 and I only have 14k on it. Kind of feels like a time bomb waiting to go off. Sounds like a fun project to take out the engine, separate the transmission, etc. for the repair if I could find a wrecked 2014 built after April/2014.....Just saying.....
 
The failures appear to be occurring on 2014 RTs manufactured prior to April of 2014. Mine was built in 12/13 and I only have 14k on it. Kind of feels like a time bomb waiting to go off. Sounds like a fun project to take out the engine, separate the transmission, etc. for the repair if I could find a wrecked 2014 built after April/2014.....Just saying.....

I have seen many references to the April 2014 change in stators wrt the GS LC. Did you find a reference that also cites this date for the RT LC? The reason that I ask is that the stators for the GS and the RT are different. The original RT stator was part 12 31 8 541 003 and is said to have been replaced in 2015 with part 12 31 8 556 028.
 
It's worth noting that those are part numbers for the complete alternator, not the stator. If the rotor was changed to a ventilated design, as happened with the F800s, that could prompt a change in part number even though the stator was unchanged.

Someone asked where I get my SH847s... I get them from Jack at roadstercycle.com
 
New Stator needed and iust installed on my June '13 R1200GS near Phila. @ 54,000 mi.

Got the red dash battery triangle October 22, 2022, studied the web and ordered parts to do it myself Nov. 3, received the parts, then dropped the motor Nov. 11 and fired it up Nov 14.
More info and pictures shown on Nov. 16 at https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/burned-stator-r1200gsw-2014.1521209/page-2

Hope this helps any others.

Supposedly the BMW stators became much better in the middle on June 2014 as stated in the microfiche and on the web.

Driveshaft "upgrade" care of a dealer next.
 
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Well the new stator was defective burned out the voltage regulator and some wiring after a little over 800 miles. Parts covered labor not Dealer that put in stator washing hands of it said they are not fixing stator failures any more.Bike is being fixed in Daytona now and they are helping as much as possible thanks Daytona and the crew for your help
 
Charging system failure

I experienced the dreaded charging system failure on my 2016 R1200 RT at 170,000 miles. It is at the Dealer in Green Bay, Wisconsin for repairs. Stay tuned.

This is the first failure.
 
I experienced the dreaded charging system failure on my 2016 R1200 RT at 170,000 miles. It is at the Dealer in Green Bay, Wisconsin for repairs. Stay tuned.

This is the first failure.

I am sorry for your troubles.

I have to say, that at 170,000 miles, it just plain wore out:bow

Please let us know how you make out.

I hope it works out for you.
 
Stator went kaput on me

I'd like to know how many folks have suffered an alternator failure on their bikes. Anecdotal evidence and past experience with other models need not apply. ;)
My stator went out at 55k miles on my 2014 R1200RT. It cost $3,100 in 2023 to replace at dealer in MD with non-BMW version. That included the price of a new clutch while they were at it.
 
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