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1983 R100 RS Project

Gas tank, try vinegar and some water with nuts and bolts, shaken, not stirred, sit for a couple of days, turned often. Buddy did it with KLR tank that was outside for years.
 
R100RS project

I may try the Evaporust route. First things first I need to get a gas cap since Iv'e destroyed the other one getting it out. :)
If the Evaporust product ends up working what would be used as a sealant after the fact?
Also, I attached some pictures of the tank filler area after some initial cleanup. Do they look alright?
Brian
 

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I may try the Evaporust route. First things first I need to get a gas cap since Iv'e destroyed the other one getting it out. :)
If the Evaporust product ends up working what would be used as a sealant after the fact?
Also, I attached some pictures of the tank filler area after some initial cleanup. Do they look alright?
Brian

HOLY COW, Batman! Clean Enuf? Your grandchild could be fed lunch off that surface - jus sayin!!! :clap
 
1983 R100 RS Project - update

Hello all,

Happy new year first of all. Hope everyone made it through the holidays OK. It was slow going at home for a bit but I'm ready to get back at it.
There were a few things I need to address in the barn/shop.
First, it cold in that barn/shop this time of year! I live in Massachusetts. I installed heat to help take the edge off when I'm out there. It's not going to bring temps out there too high but it will allow me to work comfortable enough with outside temps down around 20 degress. Below that and hibernation starts to set in.
Second, I had had to do something about elavating the bike to make it easier to work on. The best (cheapest) I could find was at Harbor Freight. $500.00. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that money on it when I could use the $500 towards bike related parts so I built my own stand. For $65.00 bucks. See attached picture. It brings the bike up off the floor 22" which is working out pretty.
Now a staus update.
I'm still removing and cleaning parts as I go. You can see where I'm at so for in some of the pictures I've attached. I've been reading up on the bike's electrial system before I start on wiring harnesses etc. It's my belief that the issue why bike was parked so long ago was electrical in nature.
Right now I'm about remove the rear wheel and drive. Go through that part of the bike.

Question for the group: The rims are pretty filthy. Does anyone have an idea on how to restore them to look new?

I think after I address the rims and install some new rubber on them I can put the rear of the bike back together. I'm not expecting an issues with the drive shaft etc. It all looks pretty good.
Other things to address. Not necessarilly in this order i have them listed. :)
Next up will be all electrical in nature. Make sure I have no issues with any harness or sub harnesses, the electronic ignition etc.
Then carborators. They will definately have to be rebuilt, new fuel lines and air box addressed.
Then handle bar control assemblies have to redone. Taken apart possibly painted and rebuilt.
I will need to replace throttle and choke cables...
I'm saving the engine for last. The bike only had 29k miles on and the engine oil looks just fine so I don't intend to break it donw at all.. I do not intI really, really, really hope that's the case...
I do plan on removing the heads and after then rebuilt...professionally. Not my bag. I just think that having the bike boken down this fat and not rebuild the heads doesn't make sense.
There was something I read somewhere about an issue these bikes may have had called valve recession? Can anyone enlighten me about that?

Another question: Does anyone know a good shop for this kind of work in Massachusetts?

Obviously this all depends on Mother Nature and just how many days I can time in on the bike and will certainly run into the spring and summer.
Maybe have the bike on the raod by early fall? We'll see.
Brian
 

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Happy Feb 1st, Brian! I was recently wondering about that RS project of yours...

Congrats on your homemade work bench - Clever! :thumb

I had Bob’s BMW in Jessup, MD overhaul my R90S heads (back in the last century). They also added the second spark plug underneath, because I couldn’t get good high-test leaded gas anymore. That’s why they also put in hardened valve seats at that time for the ethanol in the petrol. MAX BMW is your closest expert on such machine services.

Read content on valves here: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/valves.htm

I changed the tires on Karen’s R100CS with those snowflake wheels - a Great Big PITA! :banghead
I just left the patina as it currently exists {not being familiar with what a new wheel would’ve looked like}.

Good luck working in your very cold workshop! I’m headed out back to the garage to replace my 13 year old tires on the even older Vespa. It’s gloomy & chilly today - in the 40s... :brow

Good Luck!
HSV-Phil & HSV-Karen
 
Hello all,

Second, I had had to do something about elevating the bike to make it easier to work on. The best (cheapest) I could find was at Harbor Freight. $500.00. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that money on it when I could use the $500 towards bike related parts so I built my own stand. For $65.00 bucks. See attached picture. It brings the bike up off the floor 22" which is working out pretty.

Sorry this is kind of a side note. I've thought about doing something like that. How much of a ramp do you use to get the bike up on the table?
 
Hello all,

Happy new year first of all. Hope everyone made it through the holidays OK. It was slow going at home for a bit but I'm ready to get back at it.
There were a few things I need to address in the barn/shop.
First, it cold in that barn/shop this time of year! I live in Massachusetts. I installed heat to help take the edge off when I'm out there. It's not going to bring temps out there too high but it will allow me to work comfortable enough with outside temps down around 20 degress. Below that and hibernation starts to set in.
Second, I had had to do something about elavating the bike to make it easier to work on. The best (cheapest) I could find was at Harbor Freight. $500.00. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that money on it when I could use the $500 towards bike related parts so I built my own stand. For $65.00 bucks. See attached picture. It brings the bike up off the floor 22" which is working out pretty.
Now a staus update.
I'm still removing and cleaning parts as I go. You can see where I'm at so for in some of the pictures I've attached. I've been reading up on the bike's electrial system before I start on wiring harnesses etc. It's my belief that the issue why bike was parked so long ago was electrical in nature.
Right now I'm about remove the rear wheel and drive. Go through that part of the bike.

Question for the group: The rims are pretty filthy. Does anyone have an idea on how to restore them to look new?

I think after I address the rims and install some new rubber on them I can put the rear of the bike back together. I'm not expecting an issues with the drive shaft etc. It all looks pretty good.
Other things to address. Not necessarilly in this order i have them listed. :)
Next up will be all electrical in nature. Make sure I have no issues with any harness or sub harnesses, the electronic ignition etc.
Then carborators. They will definately have to be rebuilt, new fuel lines and air box addressed.
Then handle bar control assemblies have to redone. Taken apart possibly painted and rebuilt.
I will need to replace throttle and choke cables...
I'm saving the engine for last. The bike only had 29k miles on and the engine oil looks just fine so I don't intend to break it donw at all.. I do not intI really, really, really hope that's the case...
I do plan on removing the heads and after then rebuilt...professionally. Not my bag. I just think that having the bike boken down this fat and not rebuild the heads doesn't make sense.
There was something I read somewhere about an issue these bikes may have had called valve recession? Can anyone enlighten me about that?

Another question: Does anyone know a good shop for this kind of work in Massachusetts?

Obviously this all depends on Mother Nature and just how many days I can time in on the bike and will certainly run into the spring and summer.
Maybe have the bike on the raod by early fall? We'll see.
Brian

You need to be a Yankee Beemer and you'll get some help from the local enthusiasts.

Valve recession is an issue in 1983 and 1984 BMWs. The valve seats are too soft, so eventually the valves wind up shaped like tulips. It's usually exhaust valves that have an issue. If you pull the valve cover off and the exhaust adjustment screw is running out of adjustment, you've got valve recession. The adjusters should be about the same distance out, so if the exhausts are WAY out there, you're WELL down the road to getting the heads reworked.

You have a couple opportunities: Max BMW does great work on these old bikes, you could send it down to Bob's BMW or you could reach out to Bud Provin up in VT and get him to do them. ProTip: Get the big valves while you're in there and you'll love the mid range roll on.

For the wheels, and any metal bits, for that matter, vapor blasting is what you want. It won't etch the metal and it'll remove the dirt and leave it looking factory fresh. I'm not sure who does that in Mass, but that'd be my recommendation.
 
Valve recession is an issue in 1983 and 1984 BMWs. The valve seats are too soft, so eventually the valves wind up shaped like tulips.

The way Oak explained it he termed the 1981-1984 problems as valve face plastic deformation or VFPD. The seats were made of a material that didn't transfer heat very well into the heads. The heat had to go someplace, so it was transferred into the valve faces while the valve sat on the seat. The fix was to change the seats and valves to that used for the '85-on bikes...BMW finally got it right.
 
Sorry this is kind of a side note. I've thought about doing something like that. How much of a ramp do you use to get the bike up on the table?

I have ramps I built for loading things into my pickup. I used one of those. It's a 2x8", 8' long that has an attachment bolted on the end that sits on the tailgate. I had help rolling on there. I would consider a beafier board or metal ramp if the bike wasn't stripped down like mine was.
All in all, very easy to do.
I also have the legs attached with lag bolts so if I want I can break the table down for storage.
 
You need to be a Yankee Beemer and you'll get some help from the local enthusiasts.

Valve recession is an issue in 1983 and 1984 BMWs. The valve seats are too soft, so eventually the valves wind up shaped like tulips. It's usually exhaust valves that have an issue. If you pull the valve cover off and the exhaust adjustment screw is running out of adjustment, you've got valve recession. The adjusters should be about the same distance out, so if the exhausts are WAY out there, you're WELL down the road to getting the heads reworked.

You have a couple opportunities: Max BMW does great work on these old bikes, you could send it down to Bob's BMW or you could reach out to Bud Provin up in VT and get him to do them. ProTip: Get the big valves while you're in there and you'll love the mid range roll on.

For the wheels, and any metal bits, for that matter, vapor blasting is what you want. It won't etch the metal and it'll remove the dirt and leave it looking factory fresh. I'm not sure who does that in Mass, but that'd be my recommendation.

Thanks for the info Dave!
I plan to join the Yankee Beamers group. I'll do that sooner rthan later!
I also see if Bud Provin is still doing work on the heads.
 
Thanks for the info Dave!
I plan to join the Yankee Beamers group. I'll do that sooner rthan later!
I also see if Bud Provin is still doing work on the heads.

Those folks will give you a hand and point you in the right direction. They have a breakfast every month at different places around MetroWest, usually kinda down towards the south, so check their website. Friendly, welcoming folks that are pretty into these bikes. You might be able to be up and running for Frosty Nutz, their spring camping trip in Jamaica. :thumb
 
I'm working on getting an '83 RS into my stable as well. This one has not been ridden in 7 or 8 years so it too will need some love to get it back on the road. I'll talk about it when I actually get it if the deal goes through.
 
I'm working on getting an '83 RS into my stable as well. This one has not been ridden in 7 or 8 years so it too will need some love to get it back on the road. I'll talk about it when I actually get it if the deal goes through.

Good luck with your project!
Interested to hear about what you run into as well.
Brian
 
Hello all,

Well it's been a while since I last posted anything regarding this project to me my thread. So here's the latest.
It's been difficult finding time to work on the bike let alone waiting on or sending back incorrect parts etc but I'd like to think I've turned the corner.
To date:
The bike has been thouroghly cleaned with the exception of the front rim. Getting to that soon!
A number of related parts have been repainted.
Calipers are are rebuilt.
All the new soft brake hoses in house. Brass compression rings and grommets as well.
New tires in house. The rear is mounted/balanced. More on the later. The front that came in was new with a build date of 2018 :-( Just didn't seem right installing that so I sent it back and got a tire with a build date of 2022.
All brake parts on the rear system have been replaced with new to include the master cylinder. I couldn't save it. My intent was to reuild it but piston was so stuck, jammed whatever, I could not get it out.
Carbaurators have been rebuilt. Not installed yet.
Various other parts have been ordered as well. Just can't think of them at the moment.

So I have started putting the bike back together. Starting at the rear.
I wanted to check the status of the wheel bearings while I had the tire off. Seemed like a good thing to do...
My thinking was that since this bike only has 29k on it I would have to get too crazy on the rebuild. The bike the tapered roller bearing. Upon removal they looked to be in good condition along with the races (no scoring) so I cleaned everything thoughly, regreased the bearings and put them back in. I also replaced the dust seals. All right well I believe.
As far as resetting the load on the bearing, I spoke about this with the shop that rebuilt the carbs. Brad at Berkshire Cyles in Goshen, Ma. Both he and his mechanic felt that as long as I did not remove or upset the position of the races and put the
spacers (tophats?) back in on the same side they came out I should be ok. To ensure that I did one side at a time.
Rear brake system installed, ready to go.
Now to my question at hand. Throwing this out to the group.
I have the rear tire back on the bike but I'm not comfortable with the results. There is a small gap (1/8"?)between the wheel and rear brake mounting bracket that I just don't remember being there. Pictures attached.
First I don't have the caliper mounted or the axle nut and pinch bolt torqued yet.
As I tighten the axle bolt I notice the caliper mounting bracket ceases to move freely but the wheel still turns. Is this normal? I'm guessing that bracket needs to move freely once it's in the proper location with the caliper mounted. The idea being it will be able to move up and down with the travel of the swing arm?
Any advice is greatly appreciated here.
 

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Hi Dave,

Initially I thought so too but watching videos by Brook Reams I thought saw similar ridges and valleys on the rotors he was using in his rebuild project. The rotor thickness also measurer a few mm over minimum thickness stamped on the rotor itself.
I want to see how things go once I get the bike running hopefully in Septmber. If need be I will replace them for next year's riding season.
As for the "gap", I now believe it is normal too.
I reviewed all my data I have or could find online on the subject. Any new parts I used. I rechecked proper thickness of tophats, spacers, dust seals. Blah, blah, blah :)
I did find on one forum that I should losen the 4 bolts that hold the final drive when you put all of this together. Forums as they are I was a bit skeptical about that but found a second link to a site by Duane Ausheman say the same thing so I did that.
I think now everything is in proper working order and I can move on with the project!
Thanks again.
Brian
 

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Mine is on the road with minimal work. I do plan to install new brake Lins even though the current ones are still ok. I want to put a new side stand on as well.
IMG_8314-XL.jpg
 
Nice bike!
Someday I'll get a picture of mine out in the wil;ds. :)

BTW Question - Did the 1983 R100's come with heated grips as an option? I recently discovered mine had them.
 
Pretty sure mine does not have heated grips sadly.

Heated grips could be a challenge. Run a vest/jacket, grips and a headlight and that charging system is at or near capacity, especially around town.

Your grips will be kind of grayish and there’d be a rocker switch in the cockpit somewhere if you have them. You might still be able to retrofit them, but you’ll need the drilled and notched bars. You can modify the bars, but it’s tidier with the factory bars.
 
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