Aux Light Replacement

I ditched the POS factory aux lamps on my '07 R1200GSA in favor of a set of Baja Designs Squadrons. As expected, it threw a Canbus fault. Is there any way other than a Hex ezCAN to avoid the fault code?

A quickie look at Squadrons on their website shows they pull about 2 to 3 amps, depending on model.

You need to determine if that is more than, or less than, what current the stock lights draw.

If it's more, you're prob'ly S.O.L., unless a computer reset kills the warning and it doesn't come back again, or if you can change the computer's expected current draw range.

If it's less, you can add a resistor in parallel with the lights (or each light?) to increase the current drawn; it's resistance and wattage requirements would be dictated by how much change is necessary. (Of course, this becomes "wasted" current, as the resistor simply converts it to heat.)

Might be able to use the original power leads to trigger a relay intern powering the lights directly to the battery.
OM

Pauls1150 said:

A quickie look at Squadrons on their website shows they pull about 2 to 3 amps, depending on model.

You need to determine if that is more than, or less than, what current the stock lights draw.

If it's more, you're prob'ly S.O.L., unless a computer reset kills the warning and it doesn't come back again, or if you can change the computer's expected current draw range.

If it's less, you can add a resistor in parallel with the lights (or each light?) to increase the current drawn; it's resistance and wattage requirements would be dictated by how much change is necessary. (Of course, this becomes "wasted" current, as the resistor simply converts it to heat.)

Click to expand...

I suspect that the stock lights draw more current. I'll check the bulb resistance today and mock up an in-line resistor to test it out. Changing the computer's expected current draw range is a tidier solution though. How is that done?

Agreed, the stock lights "probably" draw more current... but measuring their resistance won't give you useful information, since the "cold" (unlit) resistance will be likely less than the "hot" (lit up) resistance. An ammeter in series with the light is the better way, but then the internal resistance of that ammeter - although low - causes a false reading due to the voltage drop. The measurement will be "close" and reasonable, but not exactly "right".
A clip-on ammeter might be better. But we already strongly suspect the result anyway.

"...mock up an in-line resistor..." - If you can put a 1 ohm resistor in series, and measure the voltage drop across that, that may be a better current measurement than just an in-series ammeter. Again, we already strongly suspect...

If you mean try out resistors in parallel with the bulbs, that would get you pretty close, with the caveats I mentioned earlier (heat and wattage).

Changing the computer's "expected" range requires knowing what is already in there plus the software and instrumentation to change it - not a likely proposition.

OM's suggestion to use a triggered relay is also quite valid.

I have added lots of aux lights to Hexhead GS's and make my own simple harness with a 30a fused relay that tie to the battery and have a trigger wire to a keyed power source with a inline on/off switch. No error codes and keeps auxiliary wiring separate from the bikes wiring.

Attached is a DIY of a on/off or a on/off/on wring harness. The on/off/on is great for the new crop of chineasium dual color LED lights options. Switch from white/off/yellow with a simply toggle of the switch.

For the GSA if using the factory aux fog lamp wiring you may need to add a resistor to fool the CANBUS into thinking the LED is drawing more power than it is

perazzimx14 said:

I have added lots of aux lights to Hexhead GS's and make my own simple harness with a 30a fused relay that tie to the battery and have a trigger wire to a keyed power source with a inline on/off switch. No error codes and keeps auxiliary wiring separate from the bikes wiring.

Attached is a DIY of a on/off or a on/off/on wring harness.

Click to expand...

Great diagrams

Anyone thinking of doing any relay work should save the PDF.
OM

Interesting turn of events...

The PO had also mounted some fork mounted lights. I took them apart and saw that the bulbs are intended for overhead flood lighting that you'd commonly find in overhanging kitchen counter/bars. I found some yellow LED's arrays with a higher wattage and installed them. The fault went away. I'm assuming that these were somehow tied into the AUX light circuit by the PO. I'm not curious enough to tear the front end apart to trace wires.

BTW, The yellow lights don't throw significant light on the road, but since they're a flood beam, they through a wide pattern and great for being seen.

Thanks for all the suggestions.